Ok so I got a jrsc,
from what i've read, its normal for a used one to have light scratches on the blades,
just as long as they're not chipped or cracked or whatnot.

Well i figured I'd post up some pics anyways just to see what you guys think,
they're alittle slimy, and the pics arent that great, but they were the best shots I could get, lighting wasnt great.

So yeh,
it spins pretty smoothly, no play in the pulley,
the coating on the blades isnt flaking off at all.

only thing are the scratches you can see in the pics,
and the oil on the blades.

Is that all normal or what?
it's supposed to have around 10k miles on it.

LMK
thanks.

 

... damn you!

 

Looks just like mine. . I strongly recommend getting ahold of a compressor to clean it out. Since you bought the unit second hand, it probably sat somewhere for a while and collected dust.

Also, just yesterday I used a rag to clean all the gunk off the blades. I have really large hands and was able to do it, so you shouldn't have a problem squeezing in there.

Each of those scratches in the sides of the blades is from a single particle going through the intake and getting caught between the blades and blower housing. That is a warning for you to make sure you have a really good air filter and no leaks before the TB.

 

run some seafoam through the throttle body, it will clean it up while you drive.

 

Looks OK, but yeah you should clean it up. However I would call BS to only 10k on it. Kinda tough to tell though really.

 

ok,
so how do I go about cleaning it?
with compressor? you mean air compressor?

thnx

 

up

 

Yeah, I meant an air compressor. Just blow some serious psi in the s-pipe adaptor opening while slowly spinning the blades. I actually had a packing peanut come out .


And you can pretty much be guaranteed that sucker has WAY more than 10k on it. Mine was listed on ebay as having 10k as well but judging from the wear and tear I'd say it had more like 30k. Doesn't matter though. As long as there is no shaft play and the bearings feel good. I did have to replace my idler pulleys though - the bearings on the used ones were shot to hell.


And that grime on the blades kind of worries me. That is some serious build-up. Maybe the previous user didn't use an intake filter.


One way to tell how old your kit actually is - Newer kits have plastic idler pulleys, older kits have metal idler pulleys.

 

CAN U USE SEE FOAM IN A TURBOED CARS THROTTLE BODY????? ANYBODY?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I meant an air compressor. Just blow some serious psi in the s-pipe adaptor opening while slowly spinning the blades. I actually had a packing peanut come out .


And you can pretty much be guaranteed that sucker has WAY more than 10k on it. Mine was listed on ebay as having 10k as well but judging from the wear and tear I'd say it had more like 30k. Doesn't matter though. As long as there is no shaft play and the bearings feel good. I did have to replace my idler pulleys though - the bearings on the used ones were shot to hell.


And that grime on the blades kind of worries me. That is some serious build-up. Maybe the previous user didn't use an intake filter.


One way to tell how old your kit actually is - Newer kits have plastic idler pulleys, older kits have metal idler pulleys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks,
good to kno theres someone with some SC knowledge out there,
with all the turbo goons floating about

Hey can I just use the tire air hose at the gas station? those pump out a junkload of psi.

Also, the idle pulleys, those are the ones that come on that 3pulley bracket?
mines black(bracket and pulleys), and i'm pretty sure the actual pulleys are plastic.

yeah the slime on the blades looks bad, but it does look worse in the pics cuz I was totally smearing it around with my fingers.

I assume it's engine oil... but iduno.

 

Yeah, just go to the gas station. I think those compressors are free to use, too.

My supercharger came with metal pulleys, so yours is at least newer than mine. There are three different generations of M45 superchargers from jackson racing. The gen1 version is way old and has "Sebring" cast into the manifold. I'm not quite sure how to distinguish gen2 and gen3 versions. The newer the generation, the more efficient the supercharger is. Hopefully we both got the gen3.


And I'm not sure if you know, but you can order whatever you need from jacksonracing.com. I pulled my intake manifold off of the blower to clean it and the gasket tore. I ordered another one from that website and it came in the mail the next day! I really love the website - I order stuff off of it all the time and it never takes more than two days to arrive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And I'm not sure if you know, but you can order whatever you need from jacksonracing.com. I pulled my intake manifold off of the blower to clean it and the gasket tore. I ordered another one from that website and it came in the mail the next day! I really love the website - I order stuff off of it all the time and it never takes more than two days to arrive.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Werd, but for little things like gaskets, save yourself the time and money and go to local auto parts store and buy gasket paper and cut your own. Screw waitin a day or 2 for a stupid blower to manifold gasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by folicor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Werd, but for little things like gaskets, save yourself the time and money and go to local auto parts store and buy gasket paper and cut your own. Screw waitin a day or 2 for a stupid blower to manifold gasket.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm, good point,
i think thats the last gasket i need too.

when we pulled the mani off the sc there was no gasket actually,
it was just some goo of some sort, which I have now scraped off.

 

I justed pulled my blower, which I bought brand new. Mine's got about 12k miles on it, and it has the same type of scratches on the edge of the blower blades. I carefully inspected my inlet pipes and air cleaner filter and couldn't find any leaks, so I guess that some particles that pass through the filter are actually large enough to damage the blower!

The oily stuff is probably due to bad piston rings on the block the blower was on (lots of blow by, crank case fumes eventually end up in the blower). I bet the intake manifold was also black on the inside!
My block is still in pretty good shape, after 12k there was virtually no oil in the blower and the manifold.

All in all, I wouldn't worry about it too much, as long as the gears and bearings in the blower feel OK.

Mark

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

hmmm, good point,
i think thats the last gasket i need too.

when we pulled the mani off the sc there was no gasket actually,
it was just some goo of some sort, which I have now scraped off.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Create-a-gasket. Ick. That's why I pulled apart every individual piece and inspected/cleaned it. You never know what the douche before you has done.
Just to be safe, I bought new gaskets and new hardware for EVERYTHING. It was pricey, but well worth the piece of mind.

And this is very important - DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD/BLOWER BOLTS when you put the unit back together. The guy before me had them WAY overtorqued and when I pulled them out to clean the blower, the threads ripped out of the casing with the bolts. I had to helacoil new threads into the blower casing.

And just buy the gasket. It's like $4 and ensures a perfect fit. Besides, you're in CA - shipping will take a day. Big whoop. Also, don't forget to buy the following necessities for the install: Oil, oil filter, coolant (you might want to re-use the old stuff), spark plugs, and *recommended*, a new 160 degree thermostat and new fuel filter.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, don't forget to buy the following necessities for the install: a new 160 degree thermostat.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A 160 degree thermostat will cause alot of problems with tuning. The Honda ECU stays in warm up mode adding fuel ***** nilly here and there until the coolant temperature gets to 172 degrees. I chased this tuning bug for months till I realised what my blingin Mugen thermostat was doing, and swapped it out for a Honda OEM one. Suddenly, no more "all over the map Air/Fuel ratios".

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A 160 degree thermostat will cause alot of problems with tuning. The Honda ECU stays in warm up mode adding fuel ***** nilly here and there until the coolant temperature gets to 172 degrees. I chased this tuning bug for months till I realised what my blingin Mugen thermostat was doing, and swapped it out for a Honda OEM one. Suddenly, no more "all over the map Air/Fuel ratios".</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeh, cooler temps are nice,
but the lower the thermostat the longer it'll take to warm up,
like for example my car warms up real quick, cuz i need to change my thermostat out.

Also I already payed 25bux for an oem therm. so i'll use that, heh.

although the JR 160deg therm is only like 5bux or something!

But yeh, I wouldnt want my car to take forever to warm up anyways,
it warms up super quick and I still find myself watching and waiting so I can get on it! haha

 

You must be confused, the thermostat doesn't affect warm-up time. It doesn't start circulating coolant to the radiator until it is already warmed up.


And I'm kind of bummed to hear that (Jaker). I'm already running the 160 degree thermostat . At least I will get rid of the problem when I go full standalone (probably EMS).

You couldn't find a way to alter the ECU to lower from 172 to 160?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JRciv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You must be confused, the thermostat doesn't affect warm-up time. It doesn't start circulating coolant to the radiator until it is already warmed up.


And I'm kind of bummed to hear that (Jaker). I'm already running the 160 degree thermostat . At least I will get rid of the problem when I go full standalone (probably EMS).

You couldn't find a way to alter the ECU to lower from 172 to 160?</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh well, we'll see how well it does once the sc goes in,
i'll have a new honda thermostat and fresh coolant.
i was running some dexcool stuff, going back to the green stuff now.

 

Yeah, I agree to stay away from the lower temp thermostat. My car ran like **** after I put one, and minorly tuned for it. Put a stock one back in, and no problems.