trying to reach 200whp NA w/ b16
i had a rex with a b16 and im trying to get together a project for the winter. i would like to break 200whp or run 13's. it also needs to be reliable for a daily driver. i would like to keep it under $2000. were should i start?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by coot_er »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">were should i start?</TD></TR></TABLE>
$2000 isn't going to make 200 whp. If you want to make 200 whp NA save up some more money and purchase a b18/b20.
$2000 isn't going to make 200 whp. If you want to make 200 whp NA save up some more money and purchase a b18/b20.
How deep into the 13's do you want to run? If you just want to be able to say your car runs then you may not need to have 200 whp. Getting 200whp N/A out of a B16 isn't that easy of a task.
well after a little more research i see how hard 200whp is to do. it looks like i am either going to boost or wait for the H22 mount kit.
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From: DES MOINES, IA/ O.C., USA... EAGLE ROCK, CA
to reach 200 whp you at least got to bore out your cylinders ... rebuild the internals... P&P the head... get really aggressive cams... not to mention you got to get high cr pistons
like i said above you just need more mulla to reach that N/A the easier way is just go turbo... and lot of tuning...
like i said above you just need more mulla to reach that N/A the easier way is just go turbo... and lot of tuning...
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wel actually its possible to hit 200 whp...well i dont know about the B16 so ur SOL witht aht but hey like he said B18 ls vtec baby...u can get there in a heartbeat..im not sayin with just 2000 dollars...actaully im working on that project right now building an ls vtec im talking tanny ecu arp rod and head studs water pump oil pump timing belt im going to make sure its right...lsvtec in a rex should get u real close to 13's i eman ive heard of them hitting 13.6 just by doing the set up nothing special but its always better to plan slower right?? ls or b20 vtec is ur only NA easy way to do it...well h22a but that dont count
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,035
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From: DES MOINES, IA/ O.C., USA... EAGLE ROCK, CA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> wel actually its possible to hit 200 whp...well i dont know about the B16 so ur SOL witht aht but hey like he said B18 ls vtec baby...u can get there in a heartbeat..im not sayin with just 2000 dollars...actaully im working on that project right now building an ls vtec im talking tanny ecu arp rod and head studs water pump oil pump timing belt im going to make sure its right...lsvtec in a rex should get u real close to 13's i eman ive heard of them hitting 13.6 just by doing the set up nothing special but its always better to plan slower right?? ls or b20 vtec is ur only NA easy way to do it...well h22a but that dont count</TD></TR></TABLE>
just being curious but how do you plan to hit 200 whp w/ LSVTEC? from what i know when you just slap the vtec head on the ls block you are only get roughly the same hp w/ more torque like a b16? or mayve a little more but you are still short 30 hp or 40 hp but that is still at the crank hp... not unless you are building it straight out?
just being curious but how do you plan to hit 200 whp w/ LSVTEC? from what i know when you just slap the vtec head on the ls block you are only get roughly the same hp w/ more torque like a b16? or mayve a little more but you are still short 30 hp or 40 hp but that is still at the crank hp... not unless you are building it straight out?
If smog laws don't apply to you then you can change the cams to full race and mill your heads as much as you can to increase the compression. port your heads, get a three angle valve cut. port match your intake manifold, get bigger fuel injectors,Dial it all in and last but not least get a heavy duty clutch--that is harder to push than a stock one, good street drag tires. Not low profile tires, but the apposite. 14 inch or 13 inch rims and tall tires. use low tire pressure like 20-25 psi. you will need possitraction. If you Dial it all in you will get mid 13's.
PS. take weight out of your car like spare tire jack tools, heater, under bumpers not to safe, inside the doors are some steel braces also not safe, basically 6-7 pounds equals 1 HP.
PS. take weight out of your car like spare tire jack tools, heater, under bumpers not to safe, inside the doors are some steel braces also not safe, basically 6-7 pounds equals 1 HP.
im not a bseries expert but cant you just install some higher comp pistons, upgrade the valve train, p&p the head, and raise the rev limiter to reach 200whp and stay within the $2000 budget?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by peiku »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im not a bseries expert but cant you just install some higher comp pistons, upgrade the valve train, p&p the head, and raise the rev limiter to reach 200whp and stay within the $2000 budget?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I highly doubt it....and if you could, I don't think that motor would stay together for very long.
I highly doubt it....and if you could, I don't think that motor would stay together for very long.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOSS-REX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yea you will need octane booster if your compression is as high as 11:1.</TD></TR></TABLE>
if anyone ever says this quote or uses the word octane booster.... do not listen to a word they say after that.
if anyone ever says this quote or uses the word octane booster.... do not listen to a word they say after that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importboi22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if anyone ever says this quote or uses the word octane booster.... do not listen to a word they say after that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed
if anyone ever says this quote or uses the word octane booster.... do not listen to a word they say after that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed
Im almost done with my setup and it should be pretty fast ill put down a good idea on how much your gonna spend
b16 long block ~ 600
pocket port, 3angle valve job, mill 20 tho ~ 400
flat valves ~ 200
Buddy club 3+ cams w/valve train ~ 650
New rings/bearings/seals/HG ~ 400 (i use OEM only in all the motors ive done)
<U>Here is where you can go the cheap or expensive route</U>
Header: Cheap - DC JDM 4-1 ~ 300 Expensive - Hytech ~ 1200 ( guess what i picked )
Intake manifold combo:
AEBS w/ 65mm TB ~ 350 ( expensive ~ ITBS 700+ guess what i picked )
Exhuast: varies too much i spent about 500 on mine
Engine managment:
Cheap: chipped pr3 ~ 150
expensive: convert to obd1 use a hondata s200/p28 and tuning ( CASH OUT! 700 )
as you can see it can add up VERY fast
dont forget about tranny mods too!!! i got about another 1800 -2500 in just the drivetrain!
b16 long block ~ 600
pocket port, 3angle valve job, mill 20 tho ~ 400
flat valves ~ 200
Buddy club 3+ cams w/valve train ~ 650
New rings/bearings/seals/HG ~ 400 (i use OEM only in all the motors ive done)
<U>Here is where you can go the cheap or expensive route</U>
Header: Cheap - DC JDM 4-1 ~ 300 Expensive - Hytech ~ 1200 ( guess what i picked )
Intake manifold combo:
AEBS w/ 65mm TB ~ 350 ( expensive ~ ITBS 700+ guess what i picked )
Exhuast: varies too much i spent about 500 on mine
Engine managment:
Cheap: chipped pr3 ~ 150
expensive: convert to obd1 use a hondata s200/p28 and tuning ( CASH OUT! 700 )
as you can see it can add up VERY fast
dont forget about tranny mods too!!! i got about another 1800 -2500 in just the drivetrain!
omniman managed to hit it with a b16 stock bore//stroke. oh yea running 91 octane too I believe. I think the whole write up is over on the rocket forums.
i'm at 175whp with a b16, stock bottom end and well over 3 grand dumped into the head. 200whp shouldn't really be that hard, but certainly not cheap.
for $2000 id get
A used Hytech or SMS header ($900-1100)
AEBS intake manifold-$130
Cams (RM M22s an valvetrain)
then youll need headwork, for $2000 you cant do it IMO. but you can get close. Headwork is PRIORITY for 200whp NA B16
A used Hytech or SMS header ($900-1100)
AEBS intake manifold-$130
Cams (RM M22s an valvetrain)
then youll need headwork, for $2000 you cant do it IMO. but you can get close. Headwork is PRIORITY for 200whp NA B16
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BOSS-REX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh yea you will need octane booster if your compression is as high as 11:1.</TD></TR></TABLE>
WRONG! before you post bad information to people you should really think about searching the site and seeing how high of compression people are going on pump gas.... read and learn noob
* yeah i think you'll need more than $2000 to hit 200hp all motor on a b16. personally an LS/Vtec will proably be easier, but if you really want to hit it using a b16 save more money. there is a vid and post about Omni/Rocket building a 200hp street b16, but they got alot of people to help. you should seach for the post it may help you greatly.
WRONG! before you post bad information to people you should really think about searching the site and seeing how high of compression people are going on pump gas.... read and learn noob
* yeah i think you'll need more than $2000 to hit 200hp all motor on a b16. personally an LS/Vtec will proably be easier, but if you really want to hit it using a b16 save more money. there is a vid and post about Omni/Rocket building a 200hp street b16, but they got alot of people to help. you should seach for the post it may help you greatly.
im at 11.5:1 compression an im no where near detonation. I also have a friend with 13.5:1 GSR with CTR pistons, an he has a wideband with STOCK INJECTORS, VAFC, B+M FPR and on 93 octane of course he had to pull timing out, but we got it street tuned at 12:1 A/F. i would say 11.5:1-12.5:1 youneed FPR, but thats about it, OCtane booster is ghetto IMO to fix detoantion problems
stock hype R compression 11.5.1
stock toyota celica GTS compression 11.5.1
*They sure as hell don't run any octane booster*
How about someone dig up the right up on the 200whp b16. Was their a price included in the build,I don't remember.
stock toyota celica GTS compression 11.5.1
*They sure as hell don't run any octane booster*
How about someone dig up the right up on the 200whp b16. Was their a price included in the build,I don't remember.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock hype R compression 11.5.1
stock toyota celica GTS compression 11.5.1
*They sure as hell don't run any octane booster*
How about someone dig up the right up on the 200whp b16. Was their a price included in the build,I don't remember.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not entirely accurate
USDM ITR 10.6:1
JDM ITR 11.1:1
K20a2 ITR i beleive is 11.5:1
F20C is 11.5:1
Celica GTS 11.5 or 11.8 :1 if i remember right
stock toyota celica GTS compression 11.5.1
*They sure as hell don't run any octane booster*
How about someone dig up the right up on the 200whp b16. Was their a price included in the build,I don't remember.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats not entirely accurate
USDM ITR 10.6:1
JDM ITR 11.1:1
K20a2 ITR i beleive is 11.5:1
F20C is 11.5:1
Celica GTS 11.5 or 11.8 :1 if i remember right



