When i put the key in assories mode the lights come on then battery and abs check engine light comes on and stays on. Now i went to check the error code an di cant seem to figure out where the jumper location is. My manual says behind the center console is 2 connectors and a third 1. But when i went back to look i only found these 2 connectors. This is a newely swaped h22a into a 92 si i belive my wires are all correct and i have my vtec wired right the car gets spark but doesnt want to start . I checke dmy fuel line and its speratic not a steddy flow which made me think it was my fuel pump going bad. I was told i could hear the fuel pump primer on when i turn the key to asessorie mode well i couldnt hear mine Prime.

Here is a Picture of the connectors i found.
http://www.imagestation.com/pi...f.jpg


Any help you guys coud lend me would be great i need to get this car running snow is near .

 

Looks like the blue one in your pic is the service connector. There should be only two pins on it. I think the other one will have three.
Just put a wire or paper clip to short the two pin blue one, and then turn your car on to check the code.

 

ok thanks thats the 1 i figured it was.

 

ok i pluged a paper clip into the blue 1 and turned the key to assecorie and the check engine light just stayed on. Also i put my head to the back of the car when i did it again and i heard the pump pump some fuel but not make the humming sound like it did 1 pump then shut off is what it sounded like to me. Anyone have any ideas i could mess with? I would really like to see some shots from fellow swapers on their harness connections to the block so i can double check making sure mine are all correct. Also i had the fuel line open and some fuel did pump out to the floor when i put it into assecorie the second time. Could it be my check engline light is on becuase my ecu has a 4ws on tape on the side that means its 4ws car right but my car isnt 4ws but its the only auto ecu for the h22 so it should work . My check engine light has to be from something else.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOTNOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok i pluged a paper clip into the blue 1 and turned the key to assecorie and the check engine light just stayed on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you probably didn't insert the paper clip in there correctly

make sure it's touching both pieces of metal in the connector.

 

ok i got it to throw codes now i think im getting code 12 tell me if im right. I turn the key to assesorie the lights go off check engine comes up goes away then comes up again stays for a second then 2 fast flash's after it. This reads out to be EGR Issue which means i have it pluged in wrong?

 

let it go through the code a few times to make sure
that is the code you're getting.

if it's a code 12, it would blink once slowly, and then 2 quick flashes

make sure it repeats the same code.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOTNOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check engine comes up goes away then comes up again stays for a second then 2 fast flash's after it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

almost sounds like two codes - code 1 and 12
recheck it like skdrcr says, let it repeat until you understand it

 

ok car runs now and drives ok but when im at idle is lopes from 2k down to 1k over and over. When i went to do my swap i had to swap my h23's intake throtel cable mount and spindel becuas eof my curise control and such the jdm 1 didnt have on it. Could my idle issue be that cable and such needs adjusted? Also i still have check engine lights for some reason ho wdo i reset the ecu and see if the check engine light comes back on?All fluids are ok motor doesnt over heat run nice and in the middle of the gauge and the oild presure and such work awesome vtec is also nice .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOTNOS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When i went to do my swap i had to swap my h23's intake throtel cable mount and spindel becuas eof my curise control and such the jdm 1 didnt have on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't understand exactly what you're talking about but I can
tell you this. When I did my swap, the only thing I had to do was
unbolt the servo and zip tie it out of the way.

The only vacuum (sp) line that is connected to it is one that
is coming out of the fender.

Do you have a pic of what you're talking about?

One other thing. Did you figure out what code you were getting?

If it is the egr, try resetting the ecu and see if the code comes back
on before you mess with the actual egr

 

Vacuums - Check OK i double checked them and 3rd time around the tubes have numbers on them that match the vacume diagram weeeeee.

CEL - 1 , 12 is what i concluded

Reset ecu - Ill do it tommorow see if it still throws codes

EGR- i cleaned it and checked vacuum line seemed fine. Could someone tell me the TPS and EGR wire color combos , so that i dont have them 2 connectors swaped wrong.

TB Rotor- i had to swap it off my h23 becuase i have an auto tranny and cruise control the h22 tb rotor was manual and didnt have 1 of the holes in the rotor i needed for the cruise control cable.