Today, I bought a 91 CRX SI with a blown headgasket. After building/owning 2 hybrids (92 with an SIR swap, and Now a 98 EK with an LS/VTEC swap) I decided to leave it SOHC and do all the things I was to scared to do in the past. So let the games begin and if any one can help me with some info or pointers that would be great...

91 CRX SI Manual.
D16a block head and trans

future plans:
1. Using the 98 D16y8 head/manifold/etc for a MINI-ME.

2. Using the Gen 1 DSM eclipse turbo on the CRX with the mini me or w/o (opinions)

3. Fabricating the turbo kit using a 92 dx exhaust manifold (pre-cat cat style, top half only with a one wire 02) that looks like a turbo manifold.

4. Find some a cheap *** blowoff, front mount and piping from a saab, DSM, volvo..etc
5. Figuring out to wire the DUAL POINT FI to MULTI POINT FI
6. Possibly wiring the car to OBD1 instead of OBD0

SO any suggestions or pointers?

**KEEP MIND I WANT THIS TO BE MY CHEAP BEATER!!! to get me to and from work everyday**


CRX

T-25 to VX Manifold





Modified by Em0ne at 11:34 PM 10/17/2004


Modified by Em0ne at 5:58 PM 10/23/2004


Modified by Em0ne at 11:05 PM 12/27/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

5. Figuring out to wire the DUAL POINT FI to MULTI POINT FI


</TD></TR></TABLE>
SI's and HF's are already mpfi...

With the y8 head u could use the dizzy from the crx to keep it obd0 if u want
if u want to convert to obd1..use a obd0-obd1 jumper harness and get an obd1 ecu (alot of peeps use p28)
And ur gonna need some kinda management..
If u stay obd0 u can use turboedit(free)
If u convert to obd1 u can use uberdata(also free)

Check out HomeMadeTurbo.. for more info on homemade set-ups

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mrspeaker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And ur gonna need some kinda management..
If u stay obd0 u can use turboedit(free)
If u convert to obd1 u can use uberdata(also free)
</TD></TR></TABLE>


COOL COOL..

I guess I need to polish up I have no clue what turboedit or uberdata are!

I few questions in the midst of answers,

1. Where do I find the plans to adapt the 92 DX exhaust mani to the DSM turbo flange other than trying ti weld one on (cast welding=$$$ and not that reliable!)
2. I guess I have to buy some kind of FMU, but I can avoid buying the missing link by using aquatic check valves (3 I guess)
3. Since the DSM turbo has a internal wastegate how to I alter or what determines boost levels?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">future plans:
1. Using the 98 D16y8 head/manifold/etc for a MINI-ME.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't. Y8 head flows slightly better than ported dogshit. No SOHC head flows better than the A6 head you currently have, right up until the small intake valve starts acting as a restriction. You want to waste money, buy o/s intake valves. Paul, the machinist at Sronce Carquest, can hook most anything you want up, and does a very affordable street and strip P&P if you want to waste further monies. I'd just boost on a stock head, but that's me, what do I know?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. Using the Gen 1 DSM eclipse turbo on the CRX </TD></TR></TABLE>

A 14b is a decent way to get over 200 whp. I have a .60/.63 T3, needs bearings which i can install if wanted, that might be a tad more interesting. It held it's own at single digit boost figures against Jake's 03 Cobra, back when it was only making 474 whp off spray.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Fabricating the turbo kit using a 92 dx exhaust manifold (pre-cat cat style, top half only with a one wire 02) that looks like a turbo manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mean VX/CX manifold that has the cat bolted right to it? You can find adapter plates for it to bolt up most any turbo on http://www.homemadeturbo.com

Don't use the O2 bung in it for the O2 in a boosted app, will melt the O2 in short order.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">4. Find some a cheap *** blowoff, front mount and piping from a saab, DSM, volvo..etc</TD></TR></TABLE>

$40 gets you a Bosch Standard BOV and 45 degree Saab elbow for mounting said BOV. The Saab elbow accepts 2.5" charge pipe, and fits nicely right where the charge pipe normally takes a 45 degree bend into the TB. Daniel Trimnal has my old Bosch BOV/elbow, he'd probably sell for less... and that $40 is for new shizzle.

Probe GT, Thunderbird SC (supercoupe, supercharged), and Saab Viggen all have nice beefy cores. Yhe Viggen is $175 new from Saab, the inlets come back a direct 90 away from the endtanks, 2.5", might not be at a good angle for fitment. Bears looking into, but the Probe and SC routes are known good ones.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
5. Figuring out to wire the DUAL POINT FI to MULTI POINT FI</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, yeah...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">6. Possibly wiring the car to OBD1 instead of OBD0
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's where the only stable boost code currently is. You need to see my setup, stunna, I can tune on the fly these days.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
**KEEP MIND I WANT THIS TO BE MY CHEAP BEATER!!! to get me to and from work everyday**</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh... beater. Don't do it?

 

i put a 92 engien in my 91 crx and wired for obd1 and mpfi.
but i bought a jdm engine and had to make a new wiring harness...

ill get the to the point..

if you want to make an obd1 wiring harness for mpfi we did a write up on it, sorry there are no pictures.

http://www.lowpolycg.com/proje...s.doc
http://www.lowpolycg.com/proje...1.xls

not sure if this will help you any

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd just boost on a stock head, but that's me, what do I know?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

And who was the first person I searched for and then PM'd for info.....JDAVIS!!!!

I know your the official in our area for the EF/ED platform not to mention ECU tunning.

A few more questions...

1. if i use the d16a pistons the CR will kinda be on the high side (11.1 or so?) right.. IF, IF i use the D16Y8 head should i use the Y8 pistons to keep the CR down?

 

look for a z6 head(better head flow)... and then get low cr piston for the d series if you are going turbo... but i guess 10.5:1 cr is fine for low boost too...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integra_gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look for a z6 head(better head flow</TD></TR></TABLE>

Still worse than A6.

 

yea but has more power output and a6 is not vtec..... z6 is

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integra_gs &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea but has more power output and a6 is not vtec..... z6 is</TD></TR></TABLE>

Strange, I've seen a number of A6 outperform ZC, Z6, etc. Z6 being VTEC is irrelevant to anything, but I have seen some perfectly good A6 ditched for less solid platforms because "it wasn't VTEC." No clue what VTEC has to do with going fast, or reliability, the only two things I care about.

Jason, if they made a D-series transmission that could hold any significant amount of power, I'd run an A6 and not an LS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Strange, I've seen a number of A6 outperform ZC, Z6, etc. Z6 being VTEC is irrelevant to anything, but I have seen some perfectly good A6 ditched for less solid platforms because "it wasn't VTEC." No clue what VTEC has to do with going fast, or reliability, the only two things I care about.

Jason, if they made a D-series transmission that could hold any significant amount of power, I'd run an A6 and not an LS. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can see the switch to a z6 head for the sole purpose of using the z6 dist w/ uberdata, since the a6 dist doesn't fit the z6 head very well.

what I plan on doing..

pop a z6 head on your a6 block (im using a z6 block, since my a6 is "iffy") you will get 9.7:1 CR using a6 block, z6 head. Get an obd0-obd1 conversion harness, p28 ecu chipped. run uberdata, and you're set

invest in a new clutch if u plan on boost aswell, the stocker will hold for a few days at most.

 

the y8 head has superior ports and chamber never mind vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I can see the switch to a z6 head for the sole purpose of using the z6 dist w/ uberdata, since the a6 dist doesn't fit the z6 head very well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Since the Z6 distributor has the B16 flange, that normally makes them more expensive than, say, common as dirt D15B7 (same head casting as A6) or D16Y7/Y8.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Get an obd0-obd1 conversion harness, p28 ecu chipped. run uberdata, and you're set </TD></TR></TABLE>



I did all the early beta testing for Uberdata, on Atlee's car. UD is very highly approved around here.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sparks performance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the y8 head has superior ports and chamber never mind vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

Chamber is a better design, but you're wrong about the ports. Ported Y8 is lucky to flow as well as stock Z6, which is in turn inferior to A6.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Since the Z6 distributor has the B16 flange, that normally makes them more expensive than, say, common as dirt D15B7 (same head casting as A6) or D16Y7/Y8.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

ah yes.. but the obd-0 dist will NOT work on an obd-1 application. due to teeth count on the cyl sensors.

a z6 dist will not fit onto the y8 head. obd-1, your only option is z6.

 

The project parts and progress as of yet:
-91 CRX
-91 CRX 1.6L D16A
-92 DX 1.6L SOHC longblock
-98 D16Y8 head complete, Block, bearings, water pump, oil pan, timming belt.
-T25 Eclipse turbo
-Check valves for tricking MAP
-92 VX/HX manifold
-Volvo/Saab BOV

Things promised or insearch of:
-Conquest Intercooler (long as hell and thin with inlet and outlet tubed to same side)...lets see if Adam can come thru w/ it.
-FMU of any kind used but function and Cheap!!!

Pics SOON!

 

Forget the FMU... if you get a set of DSM 450cc for $50, and convert it to OBD1, I'll tune you for ***** and giggles.

 

yea man forget the fmu. Uberdata is the way to go if you are going obd1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Forget the FMU... if you get a set of DSM 450cc for $50, and convert it to OBD1, I'll tune you for ***** and giggles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

J.Davis = the ****. GOT SOME INJECTORS???

can you reprog a obd0 to obd1??? or can you add vtec fuel and engaugements on a 92 non vtec ecu???

 

i sell the adapter plates for the DSM turbos to the Honda manifolds


use Turboedit for engine management
just get bigger injectors

johnny race car intercoller is cheap (155)

get a DSM BOV if u really want to go cheap

is not going to really be a beater since it might scoot pretty good
on the Y8 head u can use ur SI distribuitor on it like normal
ur car is an Si , so udont have to do much wiring
A vafc WILL be needed to contorl VTEC

i am at work , so get with me and i can give u details

 

No spare injectors unless I find a new set for my CRX. OBD1 requires OBD1 ECU and OBD1 or OBD2 distributor. If you want to make your own harness I can hook it up, as usual.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

or can you add vtec fuel and engaugements on a 92 non vtec ecu???

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes sir, I can... although why you won't listen to me, keep the stock A6 head, and make more power with more reliability I dunno

PS - got the black Pigtegra at the shop running... sleeved 2.0/VTEC, T3/4E, huge 27X11X2.75" FMIC. Already have the 550cc on it maxed, going to try to sweet talk the guy into a bigger turbo and injectors. You may see it out this weekend, 17's in the rear and 13" Lensos with MT drag radials on the front. It has VTEC, too, and goddamn if it isn't slower than my CRX... I keep telling ppl VTEC is worthless, and they don't listen to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No spare injectors unless I find a new set for my CRX. OBD1 requires OBD1 ECU and OBD1 or OBD2 distributor. If you want to make your own harness I can hook it up, as usual.

Yes sir, I can... although why you won't listen to me, keep the stock A6 head, and make more power with more reliability I dunno

PS - got the black Pigtegra at the shop running... sleeved 2.0/VTEC, T3/4E, huge 27X11X2.75" FMIC. Already have the 550cc on it maxed, going to try to sweet talk the guy into a bigger turbo and injectors. You may see it out this weekend, 17's in the rear and 13" Lensos with MT drag radials on the front. It has VTEC, too, and goddamn if it isn't slower than my CRX... I keep telling ppl VTEC is worthless, and they don't listen to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i need to get away from this Toyota dealership and get up w you!

I have a 0BD0 motor= CRX
an OBD1 motor= Civic Dx
and almost all of an ODB2 motor=98 civic ex

so...

 

Hey J.Davis come out tonight and show off the teg..

UPDATE:

After wondering around in the metal scrape/junkyard, I found some more parts for the "guerilla turbo'd crx"

-huge garret intercooler off a semi. (2 intercoolers welded together by the end tanks). After cutting in half I have a very large Front mount

-Some 3/4" steel for the turbo to vx manifold adapter plate, some 1/4 steel for the wastegate and down pipe plate for divorced wastegate etc.



and an eg/dc lower tie bar in perfect condition.

total cost for new parts $45 bucks

** some one told me to utilize the water cooling on the turbo, but others say block it off. Should I use it? If so should i tap into the hole leading into the water jackets and the rear temp mounting hole? Maybe tee off the line for a new sender.?

*** Is there a Dseries CR calculator like the one on CRspeedracing for B series? I have a D15B lying around and wondered if the pistons are what altered the CR of the b2 to 9.2:1 from the A6's 9.1 :1.

**** If I do end of doing the VTEC Mini Me. should I use the Y8 pistons to keep the CR down or the just use the A6's and tune to prevent problems?


Modified by Em0ne at 6:29 PM 10/23/2004


Modified by Em0ne at 6:57 PM 10/23/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey J.Davis come out tonight and show off the teg.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I could roll up and demonstrate how a badly routed, undersized oil drain makes a brand new garret .60/.63 T3/04E smoke... actually, how about a picture since Trav-*** still has a bit of sorting to do on his car:



I'm sorely tempted to tell Trav-*** to go straight T4, Jared Hugg's old 321SS tubular w/ anti-reversion chambers is for sale at a good price, prolly snag his RC 1100cc too.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
** some one told me to utilize the water cooling on the turbo, but others say block it off. Should I use it? If so should i tap into the hole leading into the water jackets and the rear temp mounting hole? Maybe tee off the line for a new sender.?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Water cooling is not required for most of the passenger car turbos, but it greatly extends the life of your engine oil. Just detour the coolant line that normally goes through the TB to cool the turbo... matter of fact, bypass the TB part if you at all possibly can, just feed the IACV and turbo coolant and nothing else.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Em0ne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*** Is there a Dseries CR calculator like the one on CRspeedracing for B series? I have a D15B lying around and wondered if the pistons are what altered the CR of the b2 to 9.2:1 from the A6's 9.1 :1.

**** If I do end of doing the VTEC Mini Me. should I use the Y8 pistons to keep the CR down or the just use the A6's and tune to prevent problems?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is such a calculator off of nology.net or somesuch, I have it bookmarked on the comp at home.

Frankly, if you're not shooting for one million peak hp, don't worry about CR too much. D-series hit knock limit on 93 octane in the 350 whp range, even if you lower your knock limit a tad by bumping CR up a point it's nothing that you'll hit with a good tune on a standalone.

Good buys so far... and I think my 450cc are up for grabs, I made Trav-*** trade me around for his high Z RC 550cc... had to get him drunk, chase him around and shock him a bunch with a stun gun to convince him, but that's another story.

 

Alright...Updates...

-I found some "Blue top" turbo eclipse injectors for about $40. If i remember correctly I can use the prelude/accord injector box/resistor to slow em down for the CRX. (J.davis if you got some injectors for cheaper let me know!) I guess all i have to do is wire up the injector resistor box, modify/open up the "injector seal" diameter and get the Injectors all bolted up.

-Since both the d16y8 and the D16a6 pulld from the rx blew headgaskets I can only imagine the heads are warped ne ways so $30+ to have the head machine level (Paul @ CQ). SO If i am gonna spend the $ on the machine work for my beater I want to use the y8 head (sorry J.Davis) but I need to know if the OEM OBD1 p08 i guess it was can be reprogrammed w vtec... or not!

- If I got OBD0 to OBD1 I have to make yet another harness....even thought i am in the middle of the 95 prelude to 97 accord Harness for my boys h23 powered accord. I also plan on using the y8 dizzy for timing adjustablity (make a jumper plug (as learned from Locash racing)

- I have a d15b2 complete that runs but I am so afraid of it's lack or power that it would be worthless to even use. Are the head the same cept for the cam between the d15b2 and the d16a?????

- What are turbo edit and uberdata and how/could they benefit me? Should i hack up the Pm6 and use it for a OBD0 to OBD1 harness? or just use turboedit or uberdata...?

New Pics!
Turbo/manifold adapter plate finished!

Downpipe and wastegate adapter plate finished!

Pm6 and obd1 harness clippings






Modified by Em0ne at 9:29 PM 10/28/2004

 

Pretty close to my set up.. maybe i can help.

Your gonna have to clock the turbo quite a bit, or else it will the the crossmember and the oil line will have a hard time clearing it. I re-drilled my wastegate actuator bracket so i could rotate the turbo and the arm still be correct.

Turboedit is great.. full engine management. Without wideband, it comes out cheaper than a SAFC.. but you will end up neeing a wideband or a friend with one. I thought i could use a basemap.. HA no. car ran like hell.. now that im semi-tuned it runs great.

Your gonna also need to have a custom downpipe made.. that stock DSM o2 housing wont clear the cross member. I got my DP plate from roadraceengineering.

Boosted d15b2 will really surprise you! If you could swap yoru d16a6 cam into the d15b2, you would be even better off.. low 14s high 13s 1/4 mile if done currectly.

I didnt water cool my t25.. no problems. Just time it before you turn it off.

DSM 450s work great.. if you need a cheap BOV get a DSM 1g METAL one. The 2g BOV sucks.. i tried it.

Good luck!