Buffalo winter car care
Hi
As u know winter in Buffalo really sucks...I have to make necessary precautions before the snow hits my car.
(1)Could any explain how do I drain the antifreeze to replace it with a new anti freeze? My car is a 1991 Lx 2 door.
(2)Also how How do I find the "low temperature amps of the battery?"
any futher things to check ?
Thanks
As u know winter in Buffalo really sucks...I have to make necessary precautions before the snow hits my car.
(1)Could any explain how do I drain the antifreeze to replace it with a new anti freeze? My car is a 1991 Lx 2 door.
(2)Also how How do I find the "low temperature amps of the battery?"
any futher things to check ?
Thanks
I think most radiators are the same on the bottom of the radiator there will be a plug (reverse thread) turn it and let the radiator fluid out then take the hoses off and replace them.
I like to change mine every 2 years. Maybe it'll last 3, but ???
You can measure specific gravity with a hydrometer, that'll tell you what your mixture is, 50% or 60% or whatever. But it won't tell you whether the anti-corrosion package is 'used up'.
Buffalokid... What do you mean low-temperature amps? You wanna know what's required when you buy a battery? Battery stores usually have a list of what battery's good for which car. Wanna test your battery? I guess the easiest is go to AutoZone or someplace like that. They'll have a load-tester & usually do it for free.
You can measure specific gravity with a hydrometer, that'll tell you what your mixture is, 50% or 60% or whatever. But it won't tell you whether the anti-corrosion package is 'used up'.
Buffalokid... What do you mean low-temperature amps? You wanna know what's required when you buy a battery? Battery stores usually have a list of what battery's good for which car. Wanna test your battery? I guess the easiest is go to AutoZone or someplace like that. They'll have a load-tester & usually do it for free.
Best thing to do is to change it ever 2 yrs.
And for draining, if you want to get it all out then you need to remove the coolent drain plug from the rear of the motor also, or you will still have junk in the motor. If you just pull it from the lower end of the radiator, you wont get it all. There is also a breather zerk on the engine, that will help in getting all the air out as you refill it.
I would go with a 70/30 mix. 70% antifreeze 30% distilled water. Tap water speeds up the break down.
Even though I change mine every 2 yrs, I keep the old stuff for the things that are liquid cooled like law mower(riding), Tracktor, tiller, or just for the go cart. Yes a liquid cooled go cart. Custom setup to aid in the cooling so that its more fun and less damage to the engine.
Have fun and look at your repair book or web site for the drain spots and zerk.
And for draining, if you want to get it all out then you need to remove the coolent drain plug from the rear of the motor also, or you will still have junk in the motor. If you just pull it from the lower end of the radiator, you wont get it all. There is also a breather zerk on the engine, that will help in getting all the air out as you refill it.
I would go with a 70/30 mix. 70% antifreeze 30% distilled water. Tap water speeds up the break down.
Even though I change mine every 2 yrs, I keep the old stuff for the things that are liquid cooled like law mower(riding), Tracktor, tiller, or just for the go cart. Yes a liquid cooled go cart. Custom setup to aid in the cooling so that its more fun and less damage to the engine.
Have fun and look at your repair book or web site for the drain spots and zerk.
what oil are you running during the winter, 10w-30?.....meh whip needs teh oil changed ASAP....if it warms up, i might actually be ambitious enough to do it myself.....
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If a car is 10 yrs old or older book says use a 10-30
Me nah, straight 30 or 20-30 synth.
wont break down as easy, wont thicken with cold or freeze temps, and last hellish longer. I change my oil ever 12,500 and/or 1 yr. Cannot do that with regular oils.
Got to love that AmsOil. But then again that oil has saved many of motors for me too.
20-50 racing oil best protection as they run it in the F-14 turbos and Stealth bombers also.
Me nah, straight 30 or 20-30 synth.
wont break down as easy, wont thicken with cold or freeze temps, and last hellish longer. I change my oil ever 12,500 and/or 1 yr. Cannot do that with regular oils.
Got to love that AmsOil. But then again that oil has saved many of motors for me too.
20-50 racing oil best protection as they run it in the F-14 turbos and Stealth bombers also.
"Buffalokid... What do you mean low-temperature amps? You wanna know what's required when you buy a battery? Battery stores usually have a list of what battery's good for which car. Wanna test your battery? I guess the easiest is go to AutoZone or someplace like that. They'll have a load-tester & usually do it for free"
Thank you JimBlake and who ever has suggested me the tips. As you know the battery capacity decreases at lower temperatures, i think (well, I dont exaclty know,) they would have a different ratings (I mean amps) at lower temperatures. That was what I meant when I said "low temperature amps". As u suggested, I would go to Auto-zone and get it tested.
hawkmgc.... thanks for the suggestions on antifreeze.
Thanks again
Thank you JimBlake and who ever has suggested me the tips. As you know the battery capacity decreases at lower temperatures, i think (well, I dont exaclty know,) they would have a different ratings (I mean amps) at lower temperatures. That was what I meant when I said "low temperature amps". As u suggested, I would go to Auto-zone and get it tested.
hawkmgc.... thanks for the suggestions on antifreeze.
Thanks again
NP on the anti-freeze
Most people just let it go and then BAM
rust, and plug ups happen
There are loads of things that people don't think about.
Break fluid
Trany fluid
lubes for joints
door jams
hinges
the list goes on and on
but sometimes just alittle prevention goes a long way.
That is why most of my cars I have fixed an sold have gone over 250k miles or more. Had one 77 Civic that went 1.5mil before it was finally put to rest. But the motor is still being used. With only one rebuild (re-ring kit) and two heads w/ one cam regind.
If you take care of whip, whip will take care of you.
Best of luck
Most people just let it go and then BAM
rust, and plug ups happen
There are loads of things that people don't think about.
Break fluid
Trany fluid
lubes for joints
door jams
hinges
the list goes on and on
but sometimes just alittle prevention goes a long way.
That is why most of my cars I have fixed an sold have gone over 250k miles or more. Had one 77 Civic that went 1.5mil before it was finally put to rest. But the motor is still being used. With only one rebuild (re-ring kit) and two heads w/ one cam regind.
If you take care of whip, whip will take care of you.
Best of luck
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