How much would it cost to fix this? Rear quarter panel / suspension damage, please see
hey guys.. possibly purchasing this car but I wanted to see how much it would cost to get it to run.
i do NOT care about cosmetic damage, i'm only interested in getting things SAFE and getting the car to DRIVE. so don't factor in cost of paint or any of that nonsense
pics:
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I would be doing the work myself possibly with the help of a local shop, if i can get them to donate some of their time.
i do NOT care about cosmetic damage, i'm only interested in getting things SAFE and getting the car to DRIVE. so don't factor in cost of paint or any of that nonsense

pics:
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I would be doing the work myself possibly with the help of a local shop, if i can get them to donate some of their time.
Well, since people can buy the whole rear suspension/brake swap for $200 for both sides. You'd probably only need that plus maybe a new rear sway bar.
Not really sure about that, You might be able to bang out most of the body dmg or get a new rear panel. I bet you could find suspension parts fairly cheap at a junkyard or just try to get new peices.
I have a number for a acura/honda type junkyard in cali that ships, if i can find it i'll post the number.
I have a number for a acura/honda type junkyard in cali that ships, if i can find it i'll post the number.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
With the top of the wheel pushed in like that, there are 2 possibilities:
1. The upper control arm is bent (you better hope that's the case), or
2. The upper control arm pushed in and deformed the actual area of the unibody where it bolts to, where people sometimes do the washer trick to correct negative camber (around the rear shock tower area).
If #2 is the case, I would steer clear of that one.
Jack up the rear of the car and have a look, maybe post more pics if you can.
1. The upper control arm is bent (you better hope that's the case), or
2. The upper control arm pushed in and deformed the actual area of the unibody where it bolts to, where people sometimes do the washer trick to correct negative camber (around the rear shock tower area).
If #2 is the case, I would steer clear of that one.
Jack up the rear of the car and have a look, maybe post more pics if you can.
patrickgsr hit the nail on the head..
If that section is bent, it can still be pulled back out, but you have to ask yourself if thats what you want to do. If you do decide to pull it, make sure its done by a reputable frame/chassis shop, preferably one with a lazer rack to make sure it gets back to specification. thats one of those ares where even if its a little off, it can cause some major handling issues. it will run more labor wise, but that is one of those areas you dont want to skimp on.
If it needs to be pulled-
it usually runs around 60-80 dollars an hour for bodyshop labor, and is roughly an hour to set the car up on the machine, an generally 3 hours or so to pull it. hope that helps..
If that section is bent, it can still be pulled back out, but you have to ask yourself if thats what you want to do. If you do decide to pull it, make sure its done by a reputable frame/chassis shop, preferably one with a lazer rack to make sure it gets back to specification. thats one of those ares where even if its a little off, it can cause some major handling issues. it will run more labor wise, but that is one of those areas you dont want to skimp on.
If it needs to be pulled-
it usually runs around 60-80 dollars an hour for bodyshop labor, and is roughly an hour to set the car up on the machine, an generally 3 hours or so to pull it. hope that helps..
thank you very much for your insight, i'll be jacking the car up from that area and possibly removing the wheel to get as detailed of a look as possible.
will post more pics
will post more pics
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