I've read about the main relay but not sure if thats it or not. The car turns over fine, fires for a second or two then dies. Yesterday i pulled up to a stop light and it stalled then i couldnt start it. It started later after it cooled down. Any ideas?

thanks

 

bump

 

It might not be the main relay. When the car stalls you need to check a couple of things:

1) Turn keyswitch to ON and listen for the fuel pump in gas tank to run for 3-5 secs and stop. If necessary, you may need someone else to turn the key while you listen w/ gas cap removed. You should hear a brief buzzing noise from the gas tank. If no noise, power is not getting to the pump. Very likely the main fuel relay is the problem. New main fuel relay is fix.

2) If fuel pump runs, check for spark to a single plug by pulling a wire end from a plug, plug in a old, spare spark plug into the wire socket, and ground the body of the spark plug against the frame. Have someone turn engine over while you look for a spark across the plug gap. You should see a nice blue spark hopefully. If nothing, you have an ignition problem. Possibilites are several- ignitor, coil, cracked rotor or cracked distributor cap.

good luck

 

I bought the car from my wife's parents earilier in the year and just went throught their receipts. It appears there was an intermittent starting problem in Febuary so the main relay was replaced then. I did pull it apart and the soldering looks good. Now that i now it more then likely isnt the relay, I'll go after the ignition as you suggested.
thanks a bunch

 

I just saw a coil go south and cause a similar problem. Pull off the distributor cap and smell for anything funky I found a distinct "hole" in the coil jumping fire to the body of the distributor.

BTW I still had fire at the plug while all of this was happening. Just not enough fire to get the car to run.

 

Where is the coil, is it under the cap?

 

Hmmm It ran for a minute yesterday then died and wouldn't start.
Started working on it today and it hasn't been able to start at all.
Main relay is less the a year old, I tried another ignitor that a freind had that is supposedly good and no go.
Guess it may be the coil. Time to check for spark.

any other suggestions are welcome and appreciated.
thanks

 

Update: STill no start. Same thing, cranks fine, appears to run for a second or two then nothing.

I can hear the fuel pump running when the wife turns the key on.

I checked for spark, it has spark but it is white not blue. Is this an indication of something?

Tried starting without gas cap too.

 

you're having the same problem my neighbor is.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1016901

 

You may have a blocked fuel filter. You get enough fuel pressure to allow the engine to start but as soon as engine catches, fuel pressure drops too low to sustain the engine. Measuring fuel pressure requires a special fitting only available w/ a fuel pressure kit.

It may be easier to just replace the fuel filter. It's cheap. You will need either a tubing wrench to break the fuel connections to the filter or a good vice grip pliers on the tubing nut. The tubing fittings are VERY TIGHT. Fuel fiter must be restrained or you are liable to twist it off the firewall.

I've had a few problems like this and you simply must be patient and keep searching.

You could also have a bad coil, but this seems less likely since the car starts and then stops. This suggests fuel starvation.

good luck

 

thanks. with the other car, it only dies when hot. the 92 'lude S dies when hot, and the 92 accord won't start at all.

 

Im in the process of replacing the fuel filter. I went to relieve the fuel pressure from the service port and not a drop of fuel came out. What does this indicate? Hopefully its like you suggested, a blocked filter. *fingers crossed*
That banjo is TIGHT!

I'll keep you posted
thanks again for the suggestions

 

Still nothing. Although now i get fuel out of the test port when i check it.

WTF?

Just put a new cap and rotor on too.

 

Tried a new coil, same issue. Running out of ideas here.

 

When car stops, are the Alt and Check Engine Lights illuminated? If not, you are not getting power to the distributor. Most likely reason is faulty ignition switch, a not uncommon problem in Hondas.

Sorry for your problems. S---- happens as they say. My daughter drove up this afternoon in my 94 EX w/ steam everywhere. Problem turned out to be a ruptured heater valve to engine hose. I spent all afternoon fixing, running to parts store, etc. and missed the Astros, although I heard them on radio. Go 'Stros! What a series! I had to splice a 90 deg bend on the hose to replace the ruptured end since parts store didn't have an exact replacement hose. Long afternoon.

Keep plugging, you'll get there and it will be satisfying.

Good Luck

 

Well it doesnt even start now, when i attempt to start it, after it tries to run for 1 second
no lights are on in the run position. So no lights on the dash at all.

I will certainly look into how much one of those are.
I aprreciate your time and encouragement, its close to haveing it towed to a mechanic

 

I think the ignition switch sounds very likely. You might check the Blk/Yel wire to the distributor at the connector to be sure. It should present 12V. If zero volts, then ignition switch is confirmed.

good luck

 

it sounds like a bad main relay

 

Well the main relay was replaced in Feburary of this year.

 

i can bet that is is the ignition pigtale this is a common problem and it is often overlooked because of the main relay problem that the accords have ... buy a ignition pigtale from the dealer it will cost about 65.00 and install it and that is your problem ... it isnt that bad to change i change them in 20 -25 mins if there is no alarm on the car ...

 

You need to clean and tightly connect the battery cables also.

good luck

 

thanks for the ideas, I will test for voltage at the distributer tonight after work.
If i have voltage there, I will get the pigtail and try that.

thanks again for all your suggestions.


Modified by econobox at 12:20 PM 10/18/2004

 

Didnt get a chance to test that wire last night, but I bought what I think is the pigtail. I asked for ignition switch and they said the whole thing was 200 bucks. I said i just need the electrical part. Its a harness of some sort about 2-3 feet long. Sound like thats it?
it was $70+

 

yeah that is it just unplug it from the fuse box and try the new one .... use a screwdriver to turn it and see if it starts up ... i bet that is the problem

 

That was it. It fired right up. I let it run for quite a while then the wife and I took it for a little spin. I'm gonna test it out some more tonight after work before I start commuting in it again.

thanks everyone for your help.