I have a 1992 Civic Si and a couple of weeks ago I started it with a plug wire disconnected. It started, but ran rough so I realized it was disconnected within 10 seconds of it starting and turned the car off and replaced wire. Now when I went to start the car back, it would crank with no spark. I checked the coil and ICM and the coil was bad so I replaced it. Now the car still wont start. The coil is getting 12V and has a good ground and the plug wires are ok so I am led to beleive that it is the Cap and rotor. Also when I put my DVOM on the blk/yel wire and the second wire on the cap, and spin the rotor, there is no continutity so I beleive the rotor is not making contact with the cap. Is there a way to check that I am getting power out of the spring on the coil? DO you guys have any idea of what it could be. Its getting cold in Jersey and I need my ride. Any help is appreciated.

 

Hey Patterson I had something similar, check the resistance between the point where the "spring" contacts the cap and the center conductor (where the rotor makes contact with the cap) It should be a couple of OHM's Like 2.something. Just take off the cap turn it over and put a meter across theese two points. If it shows "OL" Its an open circuit, if there is no resistance, well I really don't know what that will cause either way trash it and get a good quality cap. I had to change two coils 'cause of cheap pep boys replacements

 

The rotor never makes contact with the cap anyway - so don't worry about that 'open' measurement.

Why don't you think it could be the igniter - you didn't say you replaced it?

Usually when one goes (coil/igniter), the other goes with it. Its been suggested to replace them as a pair, especially if they have high miles on'em.

And since you have a meter, does the Yel/Grn wire (ICM trigger) pulse while the engine is being cranked over? If yes, and you replaced the coil, I'd really suspect the igniter.

 

i just replaced my cap and rotor, damn that was great fun!

 

OK
Today, I replaced the ICM and charged the battery and still no spark. I am going for the cap and rotor combination tomorrow. in the mean time does anyone have any suggestions?

 

Does the Yel/Grn wire (ICM trigger wire) pulse while the car is cranking??

 

The yel/grn wire gets a constant 12 V when cranking.

OK. Over the past couple of days, I replaced the cap and rotor and gapped the spark plugs which were way off and lastly, I cleaned all the engine grounds and still it does not want to start. The coil I put on here is a used one which tested as a good coil. I am wondering if anyone has had a coil test good but not work. Also I got my hands on the helms manual and tested the Cyl pos, TDC and Crank angle sensors which were all OK. I also replaced my
P28 with a good P06 but still no luck. Anyone have any Ideas??

 

well when my car did that, i called honda and they told me that it was the ingniter module. They wanter like $220 bucks for it so i check out ebay and bought a whole new dizzy with a three year warranty for $200 shipped overnight. I would check out ebay, but if you have replace the ICM and the cap and rotors and the coil is fine. I would check the spark plug wires.

 

Checked the wires. All are under 11k ohms

 

Well, if the ICM wire isn't triggered, then no spark will ever occur.

Does your fuel pump prime? Is the ECU getting its voltage?

 

yes the fuel pump is priming.

 

OK today I jumped the DLC and with the key in the on position, the CEL stays on so I am assuming the ECU is bad. Any input?

 

Modified by CardDealer at 3:44 PM 11/17/2006

 

checked plugs and they were way to big of a gap but i am still at the drawering board so Please help. I will probably try another coil and if nothing happens, take it to a mechanic.

 

Modified by CardDealer at 3:43 PM 11/17/2006