I need new discs for my 96 prelude. i figured that i would look on ebay for some good deals. what do you guys think of this. Im not a full time racer, but i do drive fast and need to stop.
[URL]http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7926249041&catego ry=33564[URL]

 

If you want good braking ATE Super Blue Racing DOT 4 brake/clutch fluid is the way to go. Either some Axiss MetalMaster pads, Hawk HPS Street, or EBC Green pads. They will all work well, opinions will be different but all-in-all any of those will work. Replacement rotor's wont help your braking much at all unless your current rotors are warped or just old. Brake pads and a QUALITY fluid change will suit you best. Dont forget to bleed the brakes well.
BTW, those rotors look like a good deal, but drilled and slotted wont help much on the street, if at all.

 

I just installed powerslots all the way around and I like em: but the bottom line is.... rotors are rotors. If you don't want to spent the money, than just get OEM replacements. You could use the extra cash for other things like racing seat cup holders or chrome skull valve stem caps.

To me(unless your an AutoXer), there is no reason to upgrade your rotors unless you've run out of things to up-grade like I did.

 

my rotors are warped that is why i am replacing them, they make noises when i drive the car cold, so i figured i should probably do something about them. i will replace the pads and fluid too, but i mainly just want to replace them to make my car safe. i know i dont need the drilled and slotted, but i have the money, so why not. i was just wondering if you guys though that these would be fine, or if you think that they will crack in a week.

 

Don't get them.

BREMBO DOES NOT MAKE Xdrilled Slotted Rotors!!!

Just buy blanks. They will work much better for you.
Short explanation...
Think of how brakes work. Friction right?
So more friction = more stopping.
If you drill out some of the disk that's less surface in contact with the pad. This gives you less friction.
They are designed to vent gasses that your pads will not create!
Just get Brembo blanks and some good pads. IMO I don't like the EBC green stuff pads. They wore out in about >20k miles. Not hard driving mainly highway.

 

I wouldn't spend more than $30 on a rotor. I track and autoX my car, and all I use are AutoZone and Napa OEM replacements. The pad is where you get your stopping power. I really like the Cobalt Friction pads I have on my 5th Gen.

I am currently running two setups:

DD / AutoX - Dedicated Rotors and Cobalt Friction GTS Pads

Open Track / DE - Dedicated Rotors and Cobalt Friction VR Pads

http://www.cobaltfriction.com

I would look at getting a set of braided Stainless-Steel Brake Lines as well, and a good DOT 4+ brake fluid. I use Valvoline SynPower and it hasn't let me down yet.

 

to cobaltfriction they make good stuff. I would recommend the GT sports for a great street pad than can hold up to some track use.

Get the cheap AutoZone or Advanced Autoparts OEM type rotors. They are only $20 each are work just as well as any other. Trust me I have tried the more expensive ones, and they don't last any longer than the cheep ones.

 

im auto xer. i got Axxis Ultimate brake pads with powerslot slotter rotors.

i got stock brake pads and rotors ill sell you. the pads are new with 1K on them. the rotors are still good. dont ask about mileage tho. i dont even know that. but ill sell you the pads and rotors 150 + shipping. the pads and rotors were never used in auto X.

 

imo, crossdrilled rotors have a higher chance of warping..

 

So if i go with the blanks, and the friction pads, it will be fine. What do you suggest for the blanks, i know auto zone and brembo were mentioned, but i dont want stock ones, so i want something aftermarket, not oem. also, how ard are they to install, if i have a friend who is a mechanic(and knows brakes), can we do it in a weekend?? any special tools or tricks i should know about??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96lewd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if i go with the blanks, and the friction pads, it will be fine. What do you suggest for the blanks, i know auto zone and brembo were mentioned, but i dont want stock ones, so i want something aftermarket, not oem. also, how ard are they to install, if i have a friend who is a mechanic(and knows brakes), can we do it in a weekend?? any special tools or tricks i should know about??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rotors are rotors. Even if you had "JDM" slotted into the face of the rotor it wouldn't make a difference. There are quality differences in the metals used for some rotors vs. another, but unless you're beating the hell otu of your brakes, it doesn't make a difference.

if you want bling rotors so your car looks cool, go for it. but if you're just concerned with braking performance, just get an OEM replacement rotor.

installing new rotors should take you all of 2 hours if you're new to it. It takes me about 45 mins to do if everything is cooperating with me. You'll need an impact driver, your standard assortment of metric sockets, jack+stands, and i forget the thread and pitch of the screw you use if the rotors are siezed onto the hub.

 

Maybe he wants some bling bling yo rotors. If not get the AutoZone OEM style. They work better anway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96lewd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if i go with the blanks, and the friction pads, it will be fine. What do you suggest for the blanks, i know auto zone and brembo were mentioned, but i dont want stock ones, so i want something aftermarket, not oem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why do you want something Aftermarket, not OEM? You are just wasting your money on Aftermarket "Performance" Rotors. Spend the money on a good pad. I have not tried the Axxis Pads, but I have tried the Hawk HPS, Hawk HP+, Cobalt GTS and Cobalt VR.

I had 3 sets of the HP+. My last set (on the front) only lasted 2 months. 2 AutoXs and a day of DE tracking. This was very unusual as my first 2 sets lasted an entire season of both plus daily driving. I called up Hawk, and they really didn't care their pad had failed and ruined a $150 pair of PowerSlots. So, I decided to ditch their pads, and ditch the expensive rotors (I didn't notice anything gains out of them) and went with the Cobalt stuff and blank OEM replacements from AutoZone ($20) / Napa ($33). I haven't looked back since. The VRs stopped like a champ all day at my last two track events, and they show very little signs of wear. The rotors are showing a little heat soak, but they have held up great. The GTSs warm up quickly and are great on the street and even better AutoXing. Plus, I think they are more quiet than the Hawk HP+.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96lewd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, how ard are they to install, if i have a friend who is a mechanic(and knows brakes), can we do it in a weekend?? any special tools or tricks i should know about??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tools you'll need -

3/8" Ratchet
1/2" Ratchet
14mm Socket
17mm Socket
Caliper Compressor (or *Screwdriver)
10mm Wrench if you want to bleed the brakes afterwards (Recommended)

Brakes are fairly simple to do...and it shouldn't take you a weekend...not even a day. (*) Just remove the caliper (2 14mm bolts on the back side), and then remove the bracket (2 17mm bolts on the spindle). After that, there are two screws in the rotor you need to remove. They suck to get out. I would recommend spraying them with Liquid Wrech right after you pull the wheels off and let them soak while you are removing the caliper and bracket.

Make sure to clean the shims on the bracket before you bolt it back on after putting on the new rotors. Brake cleaner works well for this, and then put everything back to gether in the reverse order.

Once the car is back on the ground, pump the brakes a couple of times to make sure the pads are seated against the rotor before you go drive off.

*- If you don't have a compressor, this is a trick I learned while changing brakes at a shop. Open the bleeder valve (10mm), and wedge the screwdriver between the pad and the rotor. Then just pry the cylinder back in the caliper. Be sure that you are changing your prying point to ensure that the cylinder is going in straight. Also, depending on you caliper, I have been able to just push the cylinder in with my hands when the bleeder valve is open.

You will get brake juice every where, so buy some hose. It's like $2 for 30'.

 

i have a feeling that after using your caliper return method you're gonna have to bleed the system.

Instead, i use a C-clamp for the fronts and compress the caliper, and a large flathead screwdriver for the rear, and twist and it works fine.

also, for the screws, you've gotta use an impact driver, unless you want to be drilling out the stripped screws.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowFlyin’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
10mm Wrench if you want to bleed the brakes afterwards (Recommended)....
.....You will get brake juice every where, so buy a hose....</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would like to think bleeding the brakes are a little bit more important than simply recommending them IMO. I would call it a necessity to attain remotely good braking and pedal feel.
....Brake juice huh, that's a new one!

No flamin, just thought it was funny. good post.

 

Thanks everybody for you help, so in the end im gonna go with the oem rotors, some nice pads( by the way, i know it was mentioned, but what would be the best for daily driving and some racing, nothing serious), and get my buddy to help me for an hour or two. I have all of those parts, so it should work. and i will bleed them as well. Any other tips for making it easier or making it so that the preform to the best of their abilities. anyways, thanks a lot you saved a lot of time and money. now i can go out and buy my racing seat cup holders!

 

I like my brakes a little on the aggressive side, so I chose the Cobalt Friction GTS.

Make sure you take the car out and bed the pads. about 6 medium stops from 40mph to 5mph, and then 3 hard stops (stay out of ABS, though) from 60mph to 5 mph. Do not come to a complete stop, and just normal acceleration back to braking speed. Find a road you can spend some time on and be clear of traffic. You'll need about 15 minutes between the first set of stops and the second set. Then you'll want another 15 minutes of cool time after the 2nd set of stops, then park the car (with the e-brake off!) for 2 hours before you go driving it again.

Now, this doesn't have to be followed to the letter, but it is the best procedure to bedding your pads and rotors.

 

if you REALLY want to be able to say you have brembo's, then the get the brembo blanks... but if not...save yourself like 10 bucks a rotor..and run off with autozone ones...or should i say drive off? well, good luck with your decision.

 

are the cobalt frictions that were mentioned earlier squeak after a while?? what is the best pad for not squeaking, other than stock??? i hate the sound so i just want to check. thanks again!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96lewd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are the cobalt frictions that were mentioned earlier squeak after a while?? what is the best pad for not squeaking, other than stock??? i hate the sound so i just want to check. thanks again!</TD></TR></TABLE>

CF GTS's squeak a little. not badly but they do squeak.

 

Yeah, they can be a little noisy when you are lightly braking, but I feel they are less noisy than my Hawk HP+s were.