hey whats up guys, I have a b17 block with PCT pistons but am looking for more torque. Im looking into a B20 setup. Now I keep hearing about issues with the B20 sleeves. Is it imperative to sleeve this block or can these stock sleeves really handle a good N/A setup? looking into something like 11.5 compression like I currently have with my B17 and PCT's. Would I be able to run this on stock B20 sleeves with this BRAND NEW ITR head I just bought or do I definitely have to sleeve? Of course I would like to save money and not sleeve , but if it is absolutely necessary for this setup to be reliable then I guess I have no choice. I have searched but cant come up with any answers on where to draw the line with the stock sleeves and how much they can handle. I would like to go with the B20 and 11.5 compression, all new bearings of course, balance the block and go with my new ITR head and Skunk2 stage 2s and Hondata S100. should I sleeve or no? Money of course is an issue and this is a daily driven 92 GSR. Thanks guys. All help,criticism and advice always welcome. Thanks for your time

 

Hmm, just an idea.. A block guard might help stengthen the sleeves, they're quite inexpensive too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, just an idea.. A block guard might help stengthen the sleeves, they're quite inexpensive too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you think a blockguard is good enough?

 

A Friend of mine runs a B20 with a JRSC at 17psi with stock sleeves. The sleeves are stuted with alumunium pins around.

It has 350whp and is running still strong for 60.000km!


Modified by gaskleppie at 6:33 PM 10/11/2004

 

I've had three B20 blocks that have cracked stock sleeves. I would pay the money and get it sleeved. I also used the block guard on a LS/Vtec and the stock sleeves still had hair line cracks in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all motor b20b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had three B20 blocks that have cracked stock sleeves. I would pay the money and get it sleeved. I also used the block guard on a LS/Vtec and the stock sleeves still had hair line cracks in it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i still have stock sleeves ran a full race season 1200+hard miles w/12.5.1 je's
running consitant 11's all day...

 

The B20 blocks have a 1 piece cast sleeve insert. This isn't as strong as the spun cast individual sleeves in other blocks. When you bore the stock sleeve out for new sleeves, there is a portion of the old sleeve left between the cylinders. This certainly isn't ideal to seal the new sleeves and most companies that sleeve B20's use epoxy to seal it (we don't sleeve B20's for that reason). You may want to consider a B18 sleeved and bored to 84mm and an LS crank and rods. This is the same bore/stroke as the b20. You can also do this combo using a deckplated B16 block that is cheaper than a b18 block.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quickcarl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The B20 blocks have a 1 piece cast sleeve insert. This isn't as strong as the spun cast individual sleeves in other blocks. When you bore the stock sleeve out for new sleeves, there is a portion of the old sleeve left between the cylinders. This certainly isn't ideal to seal the new sleeves and most companies that sleeve B20's use epoxy to seal it (we don't sleeve B20's for that reason). You may want to consider a B18 sleeved and bored to 84mm and an LS crank and rods. This is the same bore/stroke as the b20. You can also do this combo using a deckplated B16 block that is cheaper than a b18 block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I have currently a b17 block in my car. what exactly is a deckplated block? So is getting my B17 block sleeved to 84 mm possible? I'm sure I can get my hands on an LS Crank and rods no problem. Please give me some more info on this. Sounds like a route I could take

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8000KReV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well I have currently a b17 block in my car. what exactly is a deckplated block? So is getting my B17 block sleeved to 84 mm possible? I'm sure I can get my hands on an LS Crank and rods no problem. Please give me some more info on this. Sounds like a route I could take</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check out http://www.erlperformance.com for pics.. The superdeck 2 (deckplated) raises the deck height to the b18 to run the LS rod.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i still have stock sleeves ran a full race season 1200+hard miles w/12.5.1 je's
running consitant 11's all day...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine was 12:5:1 and driven every day. Im not trying to talk ****, but that was my dailey driver I drove it every were and I think thats why they blew.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all motor b20b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mine was 12:5:1 and driven every day. Im not trying to talk ****, but that was my dailey driver I drove it every were and I think thats why they blew. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that suck, i got mine tuned after 600miles of hard driving but im putting at built ls bottom end in it anyways good luck with your build..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmotorb20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that suck, i got mine tuned after 600miles of hard driving but im putting at built ls bottom end in it anyways good luck with your build..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats crazy, Im doing a 84.5 sleeved LS bottom end too.