Get this...My friend bought a '92 VX with a supposed d16z6. Previous owner installed it, and my friend only bought the car because he was practically getting it for free. My friend isn't a Honda guy, so he didn't really know d16z6 vs. d15 vs. the back of his hand.

My friend immediately sold the car right afterwards because somebody else offered him good money for it, and he obliged.

He calls me up and asks me if I want the old D15 that came out of the car as it was just sitting in his garage and he had no need for it. I said sure, because I never refuse anything free. The previous owner had given him the old D15 when he sold the hatchback. So he brings it over and I notice it's a d16z6 block and the head is seperated. I'm thinking WTF...I later confirmed the head was the d16z6 head as well.

Anyway, my friend was startled to learn that I was now in possession of the d16z6, since he was under the assumption that he had sold the car with a z6. Turns out that the previous owner was ALSO not a Honda guy, had yanked the VX engine but did not immediately put the z6 in. He waited a few months, and when it was time to go back in he put in the one that 'looked more powerful' and he didn't know that the engine codes were stamped on the block, and they were kind of greasy so they did not catch his attention.

So basically, he pulled the VX and then later swapped the VX back in thinking it was the Z6 and now I have a free Z6.

It was sitting exposed in his backyard with the head off, so as you can see the cylinder walls are a bit rusty, but from what I can tell, it's all surface rust with maybe just a mm at MOST penetrating into the actual wall.

Are these walls salvageable with a hone? I'd like to do a very basic rebuild and just throw it in my daily since I'm pretty much running on 2 cylinders right now. The z6 is eventually going to Benson, but for the time being I'd like to get it running.

What do you think?

 

A machine shop should be able to take care of it for you...

 

you could try to hone it your self but if there is still little tiny pits in the cylinder wall id have it bore to try to get rid of the pits.

 

I don't want to try to hone it myself...I'm not even going to THINK about trying it.

As far as boring it, does anybody know what the acceptable range is on the stock walls?

What would I do about pistons after that? Can I just get a new set of rings and put them on the stock pistons to match the newly bored sleeve, or do I have to worry about trying to hunt down a certain size piston?

 

i think the safe amount to bore is .020 over. if you bore the cylinders you will have to get a piston the same size . but if you can just hone the block to get rid of the rust . use the stock pistons and buy new rings and file fit them or atleast check the end gaps to make sure they are with in spec.

 

Thanks for the tips.

I guess I'll leave it up to my machine shop to call it. I don't want to have to buy new pistons if possible. All I was HOPING to do for the block was tear it all down, hone, new rings, new seals, oil pump, timing belt, and water pump. I can get away with that pretty cheap.

Oh well, hopefully the machine shop will have good news once I drop it off.

 

I've seen worse...but I'd be a bit concerned with my water pump etc. The outside of the sleeves look pretty rusted too... you don't want your water pump giving out because of crud getting in there.

 

honda makes pistons in either .25mm or .5mm over. Choose your weapon.

 

Dude,

First, I wish I had that type of luck (free engine). Now to answer the question, yes as others have said before. The block can be re-machined to +0.02 in. Also, get aftermarket pistons and rods. They are lighter and make a noticeable difference in HP. Get a new water and oil pumps. Bottomline, tf you rebuild it that thing is going to run like a bat outta hell.

 

Well,

I was already going to be replacing the oil pump, water pump, timing belt and the gaskets. I'm hoping to be able to just get it honed with some new rings.

If the machine shop says it needs a bore job (and new pistons) I'll just wait until I can afford to send it to Benson.

Thanks for the info guys.

 

unless there are some mean *** deep marks on there no boring will be needed, been there done that....

but why not just get some nice higher compression pistons from cp or something like that u going to stick to stock???

u got a good idea in ur head rebuilding it but don't cut corners being cheap that will cost u double later just letting u know ahead so many have done this