Dual bulb SiR headlights
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From: England, England
Dual bulb SiR headlights
Got sick of the plastic SiR lens, the lighting from them was a joke as they had started to yellow with age.
Was going to swap to UKDM VTEC headlights which are glass, but thought that I'd do something a little differently, especially as projectors arent available for the SiR/VTEC crx model.
So, dual bulb VTEC lights. Main beam total power of 420watts
Yes I can see well
Been on the car for about 6months now, although car off the road for the last two. Night time driving is just like daytime. I live in the country.
Was going to swap to UKDM VTEC headlights which are glass, but thought that I'd do something a little differently, especially as projectors arent available for the SiR/VTEC crx model.
So, dual bulb VTEC lights. Main beam total power of 420watts
Yes I can see well
Been on the car for about 6months now, although car off the road for the last two. Night time driving is just like daytime. I live in the country.
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Re: Dual bulb SiR headlights (crx si 2004)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx si 2004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how was this done? im a slow one</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hey, I'm in the same boat.
Hey, I'm in the same boat.
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From: Yankee in Wilmington, NC
Re: Dual bulb SiR headlights (EF_LSVtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF_LSVtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dual bulb? 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
um...
one bulb is an h4 so its the high and low, the other is an h1 and it stays on all the time...so you have two lows on and two bulbs for high too...how is that a...
</TD></TR></TABLE>um...
one bulb is an h4 so its the high and low, the other is an h1 and it stays on all the time...so you have two lows on and two bulbs for high too...how is that a...
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From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Re: Dual bulb SiR headlights (crxgator)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">an SiR/VT style headlight, but the backing was changed from H4(H) single bulb to the dual H4/H1 headlight style... 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
How do you change the 'backing' and where does it derive from?
</TD></TR></TABLE>How do you change the 'backing' and where does it derive from?
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From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
Re: Dual bulb SiR headlights (Home Skillet)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Home Skillet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**REQUESTING WRITEUP**</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: GA
Re: Dual bulb SiR headlights (Home Skillet)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Home Skillet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**REQUESTING WRITEUP**</TD></TR></TABLE>
I tripple request that! The thought has crossed my mind, but at this moment in time I cannot play with my car really much.
Man, that'd be nice if someone made an aftermarket vt/sir lense, projector or non projector.
Dude, shed the light on this subject, I still got my spare housings sittin around.
Anyone that has the H4H bulbs knows our pain.....plainly they suck. not as bad as a vw corrado, but they suck pretty bad.
I tripple request that! The thought has crossed my mind, but at this moment in time I cannot play with my car really much.
Man, that'd be nice if someone made an aftermarket vt/sir lense, projector or non projector.
Dude, shed the light on this subject, I still got my spare housings sittin around.
Anyone that has the H4H bulbs knows our pain.....plainly they suck. not as bad as a vw corrado, but they suck pretty bad.
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From: San Fernando, Kali, usa
Re: (RedRacerCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the h4h's are not bad, the price for replacements is.
i once bought a set of spare headlights just to get the damn bulbs lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
u could of ask I have a set of polarg H4h bulbs that I don't use anymore as I got a free set of HiD's for my JDM one piece headlights
i once bought a set of spare headlights just to get the damn bulbs lol</TD></TR></TABLE>
u could of ask I have a set of polarg H4h bulbs that I don't use anymore as I got a free set of HiD's for my JDM one piece headlights
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From: England, England
Re: (RedRacerCivic)
OK,
take one set of perfectly good VTEC headlights: H4 (JDM plastic ones are H4H's, they suck and the lens is a different shape anyway)
take one set of good 86-87 twin bulbs: H4 & H1 over here (I think your are 9005 & 9006 aint they?) In the UK the H4 is a dual filiment bulb. Its wired to switch to a hi-beam when the H1 comes on as well. Since the H1 isnt covered tho, it casts an awful lot of light.
Disassemble all the exterior pieces.
Place in oven to soften the glue around the glass and remove the glass. You need to keep a portion of the backing of the VT headlight as they are wider than the normal 16V ones, so careful heating it as its plastic
They went in at the lowest oven setting and only until I could just about prise the glass from the backing.
The 16V twin bulbs are fibreglass (or something like it) so I just threw them in the oven after cooking pizza and left them for 5mins
Clean the glue stuff from all pieces.
Then you will have to remove a LOT of material from the twin bulb backings as the VT glass isnt exactly the same size. Also have to cut out the side that points to the inside of the car and graft a piece cut from the VT backing to match up with this.
Tools used include:
Dremel (my middle name is dremel)
Heat gun (for striping paint normally but melting plastics here)
There is a U shapre that the glass sits in, the inner part of this was removed, and various other portions. Basically you have to fit it to eye. Fit the main body first and worry about the bit now without backing later.
For the missing bit, cut the required part from teh VT headlight backing, stick on the light and melt gently to touch fit to the twim bulb backing. Just need a seal here not perfection.
I held the glass back onto the backing with some clean silcone bathroom sealant. I was tempted to use the stuff that came of the lights but it was more hassle. This and the stock clips hold it down fine.
For the real VTEC/SiR crx, here is also a bit of chassis modification as the passenger side one wont fit the hole correctly. Also have to trim a lot from the metal mounting plate on the back of the headlight. Its also hella close to the PAS bits.
At the moment the side lights are held in with more silicone, I dont know if Im going to do that permanently. It works, its neat...
Wiring wise I ran new pos from the battery fused, and the stalk now only controls relays mounted to the backs of the headlights. 16 AWG I think I used
On dipped it draws 180W on main beam its 420W. Ive had to replace the alternator, but I think it was on the way out anyway as the battery died too. but that said, current comsumption is a worry.
When I flash the lights say to let someone out at a junction, the stereo gives a low battery warning (its set at 10volts) and cuts out.
Bigger battery and better grounding should sort that, on the list of things to do.
I never took pics of the build process, its in my head now and I made it up as I went along
I might be tempted to make another set, but the parts to do it for starters aint cheap...
Lack of aftermarket parts for the VT/SiR as you know. No projector headlights and no clear SiR style indicators STILL despite the JDM craze in the USA, tho I guess clear indicators wouldnt be real JDM huh
Will see if I can get a night time pic, tho where the car is there is a lot of ambient light, the effect wont be so good.
Looking at them directly gives the same effect as looking into the sun for a while afterwards, and you can feel the heat up close.
take one set of perfectly good VTEC headlights: H4 (JDM plastic ones are H4H's, they suck and the lens is a different shape anyway)
take one set of good 86-87 twin bulbs: H4 & H1 over here (I think your are 9005 & 9006 aint they?) In the UK the H4 is a dual filiment bulb. Its wired to switch to a hi-beam when the H1 comes on as well. Since the H1 isnt covered tho, it casts an awful lot of light.
Disassemble all the exterior pieces.
Place in oven to soften the glue around the glass and remove the glass. You need to keep a portion of the backing of the VT headlight as they are wider than the normal 16V ones, so careful heating it as its plastic
They went in at the lowest oven setting and only until I could just about prise the glass from the backing.
The 16V twin bulbs are fibreglass (or something like it) so I just threw them in the oven after cooking pizza and left them for 5mins
Clean the glue stuff from all pieces.
Then you will have to remove a LOT of material from the twin bulb backings as the VT glass isnt exactly the same size. Also have to cut out the side that points to the inside of the car and graft a piece cut from the VT backing to match up with this.
Tools used include:
Dremel (my middle name is dremel)
Heat gun (for striping paint normally but melting plastics here)
There is a U shapre that the glass sits in, the inner part of this was removed, and various other portions. Basically you have to fit it to eye. Fit the main body first and worry about the bit now without backing later.
For the missing bit, cut the required part from teh VT headlight backing, stick on the light and melt gently to touch fit to the twim bulb backing. Just need a seal here not perfection.
I held the glass back onto the backing with some clean silcone bathroom sealant. I was tempted to use the stuff that came of the lights but it was more hassle. This and the stock clips hold it down fine.
For the real VTEC/SiR crx, here is also a bit of chassis modification as the passenger side one wont fit the hole correctly. Also have to trim a lot from the metal mounting plate on the back of the headlight. Its also hella close to the PAS bits.
At the moment the side lights are held in with more silicone, I dont know if Im going to do that permanently. It works, its neat...
Wiring wise I ran new pos from the battery fused, and the stalk now only controls relays mounted to the backs of the headlights. 16 AWG I think I used
On dipped it draws 180W on main beam its 420W. Ive had to replace the alternator, but I think it was on the way out anyway as the battery died too. but that said, current comsumption is a worry.
When I flash the lights say to let someone out at a junction, the stereo gives a low battery warning (its set at 10volts) and cuts out.
Bigger battery and better grounding should sort that, on the list of things to do.
I never took pics of the build process, its in my head now and I made it up as I went along
I might be tempted to make another set, but the parts to do it for starters aint cheap...
Lack of aftermarket parts for the VT/SiR as you know. No projector headlights and no clear SiR style indicators STILL despite the JDM craze in the USA, tho I guess clear indicators wouldnt be real JDM huh
Will see if I can get a night time pic, tho where the car is there is a lot of ambient light, the effect wont be so good.
Looking at them directly gives the same effect as looking into the sun for a while afterwards, and you can feel the heat up close.
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