hey guys.

looking for some information....

so i have my itr since 7 weeks now.

dc header with 2.5 collector is in, rsr mag exhaust also, and cat replacement, so the exhaust side is ready.
injen intake is in, but im thinking to replace it against mugen soon.

and after that? what shall be a good step to gain more power?
my flywheel is lighter also, oem just got 0,8 kilos off.... won t install alloy.

i wont boost my car, this one will stay old school.

in summer i use the car as daily driver so i dunno how far i shall go.

i m thinking of a thinner head gasket, aem fuel rail and some stage 2 cams, toda or so... will this be okay? or will i have to change the entire valve train also?
if yes what would be good investment....

thanks for yours answers!!!!!!

 

I would never mod a daily driven car again... too much hassle if it breakes.

 

yes thats true.

but i would do.

i mean my way to work is just 3 km. during winter i drive another car. and in summer i could go by bike if i need to....

so tell me some oportunities to hit 185 - 195 whp

 

I won't change the internals of the engine. You can get a Spoon ECU or so. Keep the engine reliable, it's strong enough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I won't change the internals of the engine. You can get a Spoon ECU or so. Keep the engine reliable, it's strong enough.</TD></TR></TABLE>

kenji ecu, but ken is right.....and george said it perfectly.... the itr motor is a sooped up civic motor

 

Tuning? ECU? ATS final drive?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by - Sim - &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys.

looking for some information....

so i have my itr since 7 weeks now.

dc header with 2.5 collector is in, rsr mag exhaust also, and cat replacement, so the exhaust side is ready.
injen intake is in, but im thinking to replace it against mugen soon.

and after that? what shall be a good step to gain more power?
my flywheel is lighter also, oem just got 0,8 kilos off.... won t install alloy.

i wont boost my car, this one will stay old school.

in summer i use the car as daily driver so i dunno how far i shall go.

i m thinking of a thinner head gasket, aem fuel rail and some stage 2 cams, toda or so... will this be okay? or will i have to change the entire valve train also?
if yes what would be good investment....

thanks for yours answers!!!!!!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is nothing wrong with a Alloy/ Al FW, I have it and love it.
the aem fuel rail... waste of money.
Head gasket, that starts to get a bit risky- Are you ready to remove the Head? then worry about Octane where ever you go.
Cams, if not used with the proper valve train can be a big mess waiting to happen. But can yield some nice results if done right.

With what you have and what you need the car to do, I would suggest a really good ECU something like aem ems, with adjustable cam gears to squeeze a few more Hp out.

 

I did some small tune-up, the engine is smoooooth now.

- clean distributor rotor and distr. cap electrodes
- upgrade ground wires
- change spark plugs
- clean throttle body and intake manifold
- put 1 bottle of injector clean fluid in gasoline
- replace fuel filter
- remove PCV system -&gt; route all blowby gasses to a catch can, nothing will go in intake manifold.
- remove EVAP system -&gt; nothing goes to intake manifold.
- bypass coolant that goes to throttle body and IACV

- You can remove P/S
- any suggestion?

 

ground wires are new and upgraded
new spark plugs are in
intake manifold and tb are clean
fuel filter is new
coolant from iac and tb is bypassed

why do you tell me these things? as you allready know from msn that its done

distributor will be on this week....

you told me to get a spoon ecu, but whats the main difference to an stock one?
some more fuel or? i can get this also with v afc(2) for much fewer money.

so i wd just get v afc and adjustable cam gears and perhaps stage 1 cams or?
won t get aem fuel rail if it sucks just money out of purse :-/

 

How can I remember everything you have done already? hehehe

I don't think AFC is as good as Spoon/Mugen ECU. You can't adjust ignition timing with AFC. Or you can get a rechipped stock ECU. Ask Sylvain.

AEM Fuel rail is useless, stock rail is more than enough.

 

k man
thanks

and what is that kenji thing?
if its something that is set up on dyno like hondata.... not good for me, cos here in germany no tuner knows such nice thingys :-(

and where to get spoon ecu? just from spoon, cos there are no used....

 

If you want to add some real fun for the R. Get some ITBs,it was one of the best upgrades i've seen done to the R. Yeah it's alot of cash, and alot of money to tune and all that. I'll tell you this you will have perma-grin after some rape runs after that mod.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLBLINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to add some real fun for the R. Get some ITBs,it was one of the best upgrades i've seen done to the R. Yeah it's alot of cash, and alot of money to tune and all that. I'll tell you this you will have perma-grin after some rape runs after that mod.</TD></TR></TABLE> sure....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

- bypass coolant that goes to throttle body and IACV

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I still wonder about this mod because from everyone that I've heard from that has done this, they say it didn't yield and significant/noticeable results.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ebelp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I still wonder about this mod because from everyone that I've heard from that has done this, they say it didn't yield and significant/noticeable results. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Difference is small..... Maybe 1 HP in a hot summer?

 

dunno

don t matter. did this because i want to check something with my iac....

itb? what means that?

 

ITB = Individual Throttle Body

 

yes thinking to get mine bored to 68 or 70 mm

but that cant be that much performance.
so now explain me kenji ecu... as i said dyno made? for every car special?

 

The buddy club 3+ are yeilding some good gains and they can be run on a ITR valve trane. I would get some sort of tunning though like Hondata or VAFC if you want to stay OBD2

I forgot to add a larger throttle body AEBS IM and hondata gasket are some good gains with reliability

 

i also thought of an itb as it is here called. but very expensive or?

any idea of hp gain?

hondata.... nobody can tune this in germany as i allready wrote.

but if i get an itb i ll have to get complete new timings and electronics or?

perhaps i ll ask idol motorsport... as they tune itrs and ctrs for track use...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by misfit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would never mod a daily driven car again... too much hassle if it breakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>


best advice yet.
Pete who knows from experience

 

but i will do.

senseless to try to tell me something other.

but nice that you think of things that could cause me trouble

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ALLBLINE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want to add some real fun for the R. Get some ITBs,it was one of the best upgrades i've seen done to the R. Yeah it's alot of cash, and alot of money to tune and all that. I'll tell you this you will have perma-grin after some rape runs after that mod.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not a lot of cash......here's my homemade setup that cost me around 400 dollars for everything inlcuding all the fuel stuff:

 

If you want 185-195 whp, get the hytech setup and some nice tuning and you will be right around 190 with a nice broad powerband...

 

Brother....I had the unfortunate luck of having that Injen intake on my Type R when I bought it. Get rid of that POS. It kills your low/mid range torque. The factory one is good enough. If you have the funds to get the Mugen, I would do that.