So I have Front/Rear Power Slot Rotors and Front/Rear Axxis Ultimate Pads coming for me to install this weekend for my 96 GS-R. Anyone have any heads up on anything I should know before doing this or is it just as easy as simply removing the old and replacing with the new?

Also I am new to the site, is there a place where Tech Articles actually are located or are you pretty much limited to searching?

TIA for the help.

 

GET AN IMPACT SCREWDRIVER.

That little bitch screw on your rotors is nearly impossible to get off by hand. Sears has one and it turns a nasty/impossible job into a 10 second no brainer.

Get some ATE Superblue fluid and flush your fluid too while you are at it.

 

I have not even looked at them yet, what screw are you referring to? I have a corded drill that I can use as a screw driver so that should work for stubborn screws. I also have a corded impact wrench that I'm sure I could get an attachment for if necesary.

I wasn't intending on replacing the fluid at the same time but its probably not a bad idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rapid_roy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">GET AN IMPACT SCREWDRIVER.

That little bitch screw on your rotors is nearly impossible to get off by hand. Sears has one and it turns a nasty/impossible job into a 10 second no brainer.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

depends, on my car, the impact screwdriver had no affect on the rotor screws, even after drilling it out and heating it up. ended up having to just grid off the entire head of the scews, we even broke a screw extractor in the process. but then again, we decided that the rotors on the car were originals and my car is 94 with 144k and has seen many MN winters. damn that day was a bitch. 8 hours and stilll ran outa time to do the back do to 3 rusty caliper braket bolts stripping....

 

Your really not making me look forward to this weekend. Mine is a 96 with 107k on it and the rotors appear to be OE

 

sorry, but it might be handy to have a dremmel with grind tool handy....but yea, we started with a screw driver and hammer and i guess if u beat on it for long enough it ususally loosens up, we also used blow torch to heat it up and it just didnt have any affect on my car. when TI is up agian i will post a link to the post i made about it....

 

don't sweat it man...remember, at least it will be better than paying someone else to do it (plus you get the satisfaction of doing it urself).

you can also shoot the little screw with some penetrating fluid and let it sit a couple minutes before you use the impact driver on it...the impact driver is usually your best bet for not stripping the hell out of the screw, just use the right size phillips head attatchment for the screw so it fits in there nice and tight and hold it snug when hitting the driver.

good luck on the install

 

go here http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/

 

yea this is what i was dealing with last sunday.... http://www.team-integra.net/se...te=MN

TI also should have some stuff in the articles section about if you wana read more about it.

 

while you're at it, you might want to buy some molykote and grease the slide pins on the caliper mounting bracket. they're what the caliper slides on when you hit the brakes. if they stick, you're going to cook your new pads, and if it goes too long without you noticing/addressing the issue, its very likely your pads will have uneven wear and need to be replaced.

on the rotor screw issue - i've always found that getting the right screwdriver and just tapping it with a hammer is enough to loosen them up, but an impact screwdriver will probably make this process easier.

enjoy

edit: when you get the molykote, put some on the caliper/caliper piston contact points on the back of the pads - this will prevent annoying squeaking without reusing the factory shims.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by larryd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have not even looked at them yet, what screw are you referring to? I have a corded drill that I can use as a screw driver so that should work for stubborn screws. I also have a corded impact wrench that I'm sure I could get an attachment for if necesary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The screw will make itself evident when you take the wheel off. It will laugh at your corded drill and your attempts to unseat it. It's probably laughing at you right now in giddy anticipation.

Get the impact screwdriver, make sure you are using it right as it's function is a bit strange at first if you have never used one. I *highly* recommend not trying any other method before that one, you will just end up damaging the head and then after you go to the store to get one it might not work as well, if at all.

Oh, and once you get it out, don't put it back in.

 

I drilled those little fuckign screws right out. Goddamn those things. After about 10 minutes of me thinking on how to get it out, my dad has a huge metal impact drill in his hands. All rotors came off easy after that lol.

 

get the impact screwdriver, makes life easy like everyone else said. i just did 4 rotors and pads on my wifes 4dr about 2 months ago and the impact screwdriver was heavensent. 2 wacks and those little screws are out. also get a small turkey baster from wally world and suck out some of the old brake fluid from your resvoir before compressing your calipers, no mess for 99¢ and yes grease your caliper pins 8ea. 99¢ packets of caliper grease (one for each pin if your **** like me) from autozone is your caliper's best friend! don't forget 2 cans of brake kleen and a six pack of beer for when you're done and you'll have that nice little giddy school girl feeling when you're done that we all get after a job well done.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys, I'll let everyone know how it goes

 

make sure you get an impact screw driver you will need it some places will rent that tool

 

okay this is the 3rd time im writing this and the last time. i hope my computer does not crash again this time.

i agree with the other people that said get an impact screwdriver, its a useful tool and its only about 20 bucks.

the tools youll need are :
impact screwdriver
basic ratchet set
hammer
c-clamp
rear actuator tool (substitutes: screwdriver or needle nose pliers)
can of brake fluid
hose (optional)
anything to suck majority of fluid from master (optional)

1st have the car on jackstands and the wheels removed.

i like to start at the front.

-remove the caliper, and caliper brackets. 2 bolts for caliper, 2 for bracket.

-remove the pads
using an old pad take the c-clamp and place the pad against the piston so you can push it back in completely. (i reccomend opening the bleeder while pushing it in for 2 reasons, 1st you dont want to push dirty fluid back into the master, 2nd on certain cars not doing so triggers the abs light and it must be reset by a dealer - if you have a hose put it at the end of the bleeder so you dont squirt fluid everywhere)

-take your impact screwdriver and first hammer it slightly to set it onto the screw, then you must simultaneously twisst and hammer to get it off the easiest/fastest (ive gotten into debates with people saying you dont need to twist, you simply hammer it. however i reccommend grasping and twisting with each blow from the hammer)

-with the 2 wcrews removed holding the rotor if your going to re-use the rotor do not hammer it to get it off. take a piece of wood and hammer the wood to prevent damage to the rotor.
if you will not re-use the rotor, feel free to hammer it to remove it.

-with the new rotor, or after having it machined (if the mechanic didnt do so) i reccommend because i was taught this, and have been doing so since, to take a piece of sand paper, not so rough to deeply scratch. sand the rotor across (like an octogon), so its not circular, so the pad can sit correctly and not follow the circular grooves.

-once you put the rotor back on the car, clean it. use brake cleaner and paper towels, or any cleaner will do. soap & water, super clean, simply grean, etc. get off all the dirt and grease from the front and back.

-some say use shims, some say dont. i have never used the shims and havent had any problems or squeals. however do apply the disc brake quiet to the back of the pad.

-also make sure you throughly grease the brackets where the caliper pivots on. remove the metal and grease the rubber boot.

-put the caliper bracket, then the caliper back on tight.

-redo th other side the same way.

for the rear:

-same things are involved as the front except you do NOT use a c-clamp to push the piston in. you use the box tool, a screwdriver, or a pair of needlnose pliers will work.
the rear piston has grooves in it like a (+) sign. alight the tool into the groove so its tight. push and spin the pison in. the actuator piston must be screwed back into place.

when all sides are done, its time to flush and refill the system.

i was begining to gravity bleed mine, luckily a friend happend to stop by so i asked if he would help me for a couple mins pressing the pedal.

-at all times make sure you have fluid in the master cylinder so you don't run it dry or you will have to restart.

-open the bleeder, and have your accomplice press the pedal in slowly and hold it down to the floor.

-tighten the bleeder, have your friend get off the pedal. repeat this until 100% clean fluid starts to come out. possibly 12 - 15 times i did mine.

-make sure the bleeders are screwed back snug, and check that everything was put on tight and properly.

make sure you have enough fluid in the master, and go for a test drive. go slowly at first in case your brakes are not working properly you arent in a jam.