What should I expect to pay for a built D16A6?

What changes make the biggest power gains?

Looking for more Torque than horsepower.

Thanks
Glenn

 

I would say don't bother with it. put that money towards a motor swap.
I've got a jdm GSR motor for sale.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMallTHEway &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say don't bother with it. put that money towards a motor swap.
I've got a jdm GSR motor for sale.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well damn. Jump on the first chance you see to sell something huh?

You can completely build a D-series if you have the money. If you are only going to do a little here and a little there, not worth it.

 

here yo..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=335078

 

I was told 1400$ for rebuilding my D15B2 (with used stock crank and 1 rod and piston), and I laughed all the way back to my buddy's truck....

I ended up throwing in a D16Z6 for about 850 with everything else that I bought for it including:

-ECU
-Conversion Harness
-New Dizzy
-Timing Belt/Water Pump
-Plugs and Wires
-Oil

You can use the stock tranny and it it will line right up. I wouldn't rebuild, just replace with something better/more powerful.

Oh yeah and now my friend who at the same time is putting in a b16 and spending a ton of money on parts to get it to even go in.... well I already have a turbo system put together and am now waiting on a socketed ecu... he still doesn't even have the engine swap done yet cause he ran out of money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Conernr1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What should I expect to pay for a built D16A6?

What changes make the biggest power gains?

Looking for more Torque than horsepower.

Thanks
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll give you a ball park estimate for what you have to pay.
I had a D16Z6 block and I rebuilt it. It's just a rebuild - not even high performance aftermarket pistons or anything went in this engine.
I did all the assembly work.

I used the stock rods and crank. Everything else was replaced.
The crank was micropolished.
The engine block was bored .020" over and honed.
Deck was resurfaced and parallel decked.
Pistons were put on the rods and balanced.
Crank was balanced.
$500.

I bought new OEM D16Y8 pistons and rings for $200 online.
Rod and crank bearings should run $200 for OEM ones, but I went cheap and used some aftermarket ones - ones size fits all - for $60 (so far they are holding in there so it's not as bad as it sounds)
Then you get to buy a new water pump and oil pump. Round it off to $100
All new gaskets and nuts and bolts isn't cheap either. $250
Timing belt $40

That's just a simple rebuild with some balanced parts so it should last for a long time. I think the whole thing cost me in the neighborhood of $1200. I did it over time so it wasn't a big drop in the wallet all at once.

You want a BUILT block so start adding $$$.
You probably want to get the blocked sleeved for large diameter pistons or pinned if you are going high compression with the stock sleeves. $? JG does a resleeve and clean for $600. You still need a bore and hone.
Then you need to get some beefy rods. $300
Nice pistons $300+


I think a built block would run in the area of $1800 for a basic block.
For a pro block probably aroun $2500.


THEN you get to spend another obscene amount for the head.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well damn. Jump on the first chance you see to sell something huh?

You can completely build a D-series if you have the money. If you are only going to do a little here and a little there, not worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really care about selling it, I'm sure I'll find a buyer, but no matter what you do to a d series, its still a d series. It would take alot of money to build them right, i just think twin cam is the way to go.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thumbtack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Oh yeah and now my friend who at the same time is putting in a b16 and spending a ton of money on parts to get it to even go in.... well I already have a turbo system put together and am now waiting on a socketed ecu... he still doesn't even have the engine swap done yet cause he ran out of money. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe, but your friends turbo setup will more than likely tear anything Dseries you are putting together right now. Sounds like he's on the right track if he's spending a ton of money. You have to spend money to get these two: Fast and Reliable, meanwhile you chose the cheap quick thrill which would be these two: fast and cheap. He'll probably run all night long at the track and you would get one run before the dseries gives in. To each their own though. I'm taking heat from my friends who could care less how long the motor lasts, they just want a cheap, quick, dirty, pos, thrill.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMallTHEway &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It would take alot of money to build them right, i just think twin cam is the way to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. Twin Cam all the way.

 

well for the bottom end, all you really need to add power is high compression pistons from an 88-89 integra, your looking at around 11:1 compression before milling...just make sure that the rods and crankshaft is in good shape and you use new bearings.

for the head, you can buy isky valvetrain for about 300 bucks, and a cam for about 175 and gear for 100...a local show will rebuild my head for $200 including milling and assembling...

the D16A6 is a great motor, and an easy one to work on, so im glad to see you wanting to stick with it...

plus it has usable torque and hp unlike the b16as...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectCRXtacy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe, but your friends turbo setup will more than likely tear anything Dseries you are putting together right now. Sounds like he's on the right track if he's spending a ton of money. </TD></TR></TABLE>

he said it was HIS turbo setup...not his friend's. his friend is spending a ton of money on a b16 swap and it isn't even in yet. He did a single cam vtec turbo and everything is allready operational.

i dunno, but it sounds like you're somewhat of a b-series fanboy. "more than likely tear anything DSeries you are putting together right now.".....lol. yeah, and everybody knows how slow those d16z6 turbos are, lol. there are plenty of single cam vtec EF's that are turboed out there that run 13's and 12's...

dseries motors

*sits back and waits for more "my b16 is better than anything out there" rebuttals*

 

It's ok, defend the cheap wonder, but the Bseries is always going to be more powerful, mod for mod. Simply because Honda designed the motor to have more power than the dseries. Gettin tired of you single cammers.

 

^ You think a dohc zc is still shitty?

 

Here is why I think it is:

http://www.quickhonda.net

 

I have a 91 CRX HF. One thing I considered was a restoration. With gas prices going up having a 'new' HF is something to consider. You can get a remanufactured engine for less than 2k. So I suspect that same for a si motor. Several years ago I rebuilt to stock specs a datsun l16 for a 510. A machine shop did the machine work, I did the assembly, including a valve job etc. Cost about 1k I think. You should be able to rebuild it yourself to stock specs for less than 2k.. or buy a remanufactured motor. You don't need a 3 angle valve job on a stock rebuild etc..

If I was looking for performance I would go at least to a dohc b16. The sohc is interesting, but the b16 is what I would do at a minium.

On the other hand I would do a b18c5 or even a Dart block/head setup for performance... maybe with a turbo...

 

For some reason the B16 has lost all appeal to me. I think its because I see so many people questioning why their B16 is only running 15's and there are so many ways to build a D16 (while maintaining reliability) and go toe to toe, if not pull, on B16's. Both motors have endless options, but IMO, B16a was just a fad, and now its either build your D or go B18. The B16 is just OK and stuck in the middle. It's fairly cheap and pretty quick, but a built D is still cheap and faster. A B18 however, is faster but more expensive with more potential. Then it comes down to the ultimate question. What is your intention with your car, b/c if you plan on running in some type of auto-x or racing you have class rules to comply with. If you are just out to beat your buddies ride then build whatever your little heart desires......just my thoughts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectCRXtacy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is why I think it is:

http://www.quickhonda.net

</TD></TR></TABLE>

ZC's are pretty decent motors. What people have to understand is that usually when people were having alot of problems with the engine, it was usually related to something thats hooked up wrong or something like that. Then, in that link, he did that swap and stuff in 1998 and a second time during 2000. I like the ZC and have had no issues with it.

I am all for d-series and ZC's, not because I am cheap, but more so to prove to people that B-series is not the only thing to do. Over the winter I am building my B18 w/type R internals. This is the second time around for me. The other one never made it into my hatch (sold to members of H-T) I just bought another hatch for $100

 

I'm not saying it's the only thing to do, but it is a better thing to do.

 

I say gun for the Z6, thats what i am doin, the engine is goin in probly in a month or so, im just slowly adding things to it like header, cams, clutch, lightened flywheel, and so on, and almost everything is on it now and for cheap too, only need a headerr then im done, and i have a buddy withthe almost same set up in his CRX and he runs low to mid 14's, pulls on most B16's, and way way better gas millage too. Just Go Safe and the cheaper way, were parts to fix the engine dont cost an arm and a leg. just my 2 cents.

 

IDK what the cost is to rebuild one but stay A6

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectCRXtacy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's ok, defend the cheap wonder, but the Bseries is always going to be more powerful, mod for mod. Simply because Honda designed the motor to have more power than the dseries. Gettin tired of you single cammers. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The B series is going the way of the Dodo bird, the K-series will own you guys!

 

have fun trying to draw more torque than hp. these arent built 8cyls. the only way your going to acheive that goal is by actually TRYING to get more torque, meaning special intake mani, long header, low end cams, high compression or supercharge. IMO if your going for a goal like that say bye to hondas.

 

torque is more useful after you've gotten up to speed which is why I don't mind having less torque off the line and all of it at the higher rpms. This way it's more effective use, rather than getting no traction right away. Torque is easy to reach when turbocharged. Sure it's no V8, but we're not trying to get tree stump pulling power because our cars weigh 80 tons. The power to weight ratio will be more than enough to take advantage of those V8'ers.

 

Actually HP is what keeps you going, trq gets you off the line and pulls you.

This is about the same build I am attempting. Heres my price list so far so you get an estimate.

Pistons: SRP 10.5:1 $425
Rods: Eagle H beam $300
Block plus bored .20 over: $220 (included tapped block and oil pan)
Head that has been port and polished: $210
Crank machined and bearings: $60
Bottom end vat/cleaned and put together at machine shop: $250-300
Top end gasket kit: $90
Bottom end gasket set: $56.
Water pump: $20 (brand new e-bay )
Head bolts $55

So thats about $1700. I plan on putting it in myself so that will save some money. Also this is Y8 so some of the parts were more expensive compared to a A6. $1700 sounds like a lot but look at whats in it. I have a full turbo setup waiting to go on and this baby is ready to scream.

Hope this helps a little.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowcrx1991 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The B series is going the way of the Dodo bird, the K-series will own you guys! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think the B-series will always be strong, the K-Series motors are great, and make alot of hp, but right now they are very expensive to work on, and more complicated than the b series. as for any sohc motor, their power gain potential will always be less than twin cam motors.

P.S. the kseries is the shyt. I wish I had one.....

 

A good alternative to a rebuild is a Japanese Imported engine
SOHC ZC's for the 88-91 chassis usually go anywhere from $250-$350 complete longblock.