We swapped in another stock motor into my uncle's 97 Civic LX and used the factory manual for all information/directions. For the torque specification on the crankshaft pulley bolt, the book says "14 ft/lb" as on the weblink below.

http://www.redpepperracing.com/technical/138/aap

We did exactly that, but I kind of doubt that spec because I see for so many other engines the spec is something like 120-130 ft/lb.

Any comments???

 

First I was gonna just say that's a typo. More like 140 lbf-ft.

But I read your link, it actually says torque to 14 lbf-ft, then tighten it 90 degrees MORE. I haven't seen that on MY Hondas, but on mine that's a hardened bolt. It'll take lots of torque to go that extra 90 degrees, so maybe it's about the same result.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But I read your link, it actually says torque to 14 lbf-ft, then tighten it 90 degrees MORE. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the spec Honda recomends. They are using the torque and angle bolts on rods, mains and heads also. Supposed to be more accurate under different conditions. I've heard of it refered to as "torque to yeild", but i'm not sure if it's the same thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard of it refered to as "torque to yeild", but i'm not sure if it's the same thing. </TD></TR></TABLE>Sorta, but not exactly the same thing. The torquing procedure is how you get the bolt to yield. Sometimes you can use the same procedure (torque + angle) simply because it's more accurate for other reasons like gasket compression.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chiovnidca &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the spec Honda recomends. They are using the torque and angle bolts on rods, mains and heads also.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm guessing it's only for the particular cars/years where the pulley & bolt are designed for that procedure? Sometimes they put a 'neck' in the bolt where the yielding happens. If they're truly yielding that bolt, you can't re-use it - gotta buy a new bolt each time.

 

Thanks for the reminder that it needs MORE turning after the initial 14 ft/lbs. He only drove the car for 50 miles, then parked it because of a ripped CV boot. So along with swapping in another axle (driver side, how convenient) we'll redo the whole tightening procedure on the crankshaft pulley bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm guessing it's only for the particular cars/years where the pulley & bolt are designed for that procedure? Sometimes they put a 'neck' in the bolt where the yielding happens. If they're truly yielding that bolt, you can't re-use it - gotta buy a new bolt each time.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
They started it in "96" on the Civics. I kind of thought torque to yeild was different, thanks.

 

Just following up on progress:

We fixed the axle and re-tightened the crankshaft pulley bolt using the procedure in the book (torque to 14 ft/lbs then another 90 degree turn). MAN that thing was hard to turn those last few degrees. The car was in 5th gear and one guy held the brakes while the other guy turned the breaker bar. It was a bear but we got it the full 90 degrees extra. I can sleep better now.

To me for not reading ALL the directions
To HT for the support!