Which route to ~210 whp?
I want to start planning now for a swap Im going to be doing in a few months so I can set aside funds and make sure I don't spend them.
1) Buy a B16 swap. Swap it in and on the side buy a b18c1 longblock and build that up on the side and swap that in once complete and sell the b16 longblock.
Benefits: No car downtime, b16 tranny better geared than b18c1 tranny.
Concerns: Having to drive around with a b16 only for awhile, having to keep my long block at home in Idaho.
2) Buy a b18c1 swap. Save enough money for CTR pistons and to build the head and then get a good header.
Benefits: Something more powerful to drive around untill I can build it
Concerns: The tranny isnt ideal for all motor, the downtime to build the engine
3) Buy a JDM ITR swap. Do headwork and get good cams and a good header.
Benefits: Fastest to drive around just with swap, less downtime because I will leave the bottom end stock? Best transmission of all options.
Concerns: Not as cost effective?
A thing to keep in mind: I am a college student and from September-May I can't really do any work on my car, I will only be able to do basic things. So all real work will have to be when I am home in the summers. I also don't have a lot of tools at my house but have a decent amount.
Since I know someone will ask....
Purpose of the car:
I want to build a fairly reliable car that is a blast to drive. It will also be seeing a few hour road trips almost every weekend to either Chicago or Milwaukee. I want to be able to go to the strip and have fun when I can.
I'm hoping for somewhere around 13's on the street tires and maybe high 12's on slicks, somewhere around there. Sorry if I forgot anything, I typed this quickly before class.
1) Buy a B16 swap. Swap it in and on the side buy a b18c1 longblock and build that up on the side and swap that in once complete and sell the b16 longblock.
Benefits: No car downtime, b16 tranny better geared than b18c1 tranny.
Concerns: Having to drive around with a b16 only for awhile, having to keep my long block at home in Idaho.
2) Buy a b18c1 swap. Save enough money for CTR pistons and to build the head and then get a good header.
Benefits: Something more powerful to drive around untill I can build it
Concerns: The tranny isnt ideal for all motor, the downtime to build the engine
3) Buy a JDM ITR swap. Do headwork and get good cams and a good header.
Benefits: Fastest to drive around just with swap, less downtime because I will leave the bottom end stock? Best transmission of all options.
Concerns: Not as cost effective?
A thing to keep in mind: I am a college student and from September-May I can't really do any work on my car, I will only be able to do basic things. So all real work will have to be when I am home in the summers. I also don't have a lot of tools at my house but have a decent amount.
Since I know someone will ask....
Purpose of the car:
I want to build a fairly reliable car that is a blast to drive. It will also be seeing a few hour road trips almost every weekend to either Chicago or Milwaukee. I want to be able to go to the strip and have fun when I can.
I'm hoping for somewhere around 13's on the street tires and maybe high 12's on slicks, somewhere around there. Sorry if I forgot anything, I typed this quickly before class.
C1 with CTR would be a good choice, IF you can get it tuned correctly (read not in Idaho- try Modern in SLC). You'll want to get the head PNP and make sure the chambers are polished. I'd put some SK2II or JUN III cams in.. something big enough to tame the compression a bit for the pump fuel- Since you want something that is "fun" to drive I'd say that you would really want to open the flow up a bit- really good header, intake, exhaust, and manifold. You don' t have to spend a crap load of cash, but it will take some. Also steer clear of B16- no torque at all...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rough_draft »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">skunk2 valvetrain</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yuck.
Have you considered building a Poor man's Type R? (GSR Block & PR3 head)
Yuck.
Have you considered building a Poor man's Type R? (GSR Block & PR3 head)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yuck.
Have you considered building a Poor man's Type R? (GSR Block & PR3 head)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was gonna say portflow cuz thats what i run but most ppl i talk to say skunk2?
?
Yuck.
Have you considered building a Poor man's Type R? (GSR Block & PR3 head)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i was gonna say portflow cuz thats what i run but most ppl i talk to say skunk2?
?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rough_draft »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was gonna say portflow cuz thats what i run but most ppl i talk to say skunk2?
?</TD></TR></TABLE>https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=984792
?</TD></TR></TABLE>https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=984792
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Hopefully my new setup will yeild me numbers close to 210. Je/srp pistons 11:5:1, eagle rods, ls block and crank, jdm itr head, full skunk2 valvetrain w/valves, bronze valve guides, Skunk2 stage II cams, ect w/hondata s100. I'm hoping for 200-210. but we'll see. My project has cost me nearly 4k in parts (it would be more, but I already have an ITR with all the goodies
). Good Luck
). Good Luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC 91 Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=984792</TD></TR></TABLE>
faulty valve.. not raelly springs but maybe.. i've seen Jun cams break. **** happens
faulty valve.. not raelly springs but maybe.. i've seen Jun cams break. **** happens
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) tuned w/ Hondata 