Did a swap first time
Hey guys, I did a swap for the first time, and everything was greate. Engine firs up instantly, it works nice. But the problem is that check engine light is on, and since timing belt is brand new, it makes screatchy noise, only when I start it up and when it idels for few minutes after start-up. Will check engine go away later after computer accept it ?
More info pleeeeazee.
Car:
Motor:
ECU:
Code:
I'm guessing something is not hooked up correctly. Is the timing right, and what sound do you mean from the new belt?
Congrats on doing the work yourself
.
Car:
Motor:
ECU:
Code:
I'm guessing something is not hooked up correctly. Is the timing right, and what sound do you mean from the new belt?
Congrats on doing the work yourself
.
1989 Honda CRX Si
Blown D16A6, replaced by the same motor.
Did swap, reused same tranny, adjasted valves, changed seals, replaced timing belt. Never had any experience with mechanins, just alot of reading. Bought Helms and jsut folowed instructions. Took me 2 1/2 days to finish all.
Belt makes same noise like those old cars, like it's rubing against somehting....
As far as the check engine light, I don't know, everything is connected ok, i think.....
Blown D16A6, replaced by the same motor.
Did swap, reused same tranny, adjasted valves, changed seals, replaced timing belt. Never had any experience with mechanins, just alot of reading. Bought Helms and jsut folowed instructions. Took me 2 1/2 days to finish all.
Belt makes same noise like those old cars, like it's rubing against somehting....
As far as the check engine light, I don't know, everything is connected ok, i think.....
what do u mean? Like timing?
Oh yes, and if I turn the car on that belt starts to make nosie, i raise it up to 3-4k and then it stops never coms back till I turn it off and restart it again....
Oh yes, and if I turn the car on that belt starts to make nosie, i raise it up to 3-4k and then it stops never coms back till I turn it off and restart it again....
Sounds good dude. Check ur Harmonic Ballancer. It might be getting ready to die. that would cause belts to move\thrown\break. Also, For the Code, look at the ECU theres a light, Count the blinks, then come back.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pogiTSI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds good dude. Check ur Harmonic Ballancer. It might be getting ready to die. that would cause belts to move\thrown\break. Also, For the Code, look at the ECU theres a light, Count the blinks, then come back.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Honda's don't have a harmonic balancer.
do check the lights/codes and check your Helms to determine what they are.
You can find more info about the codes in the beginning of the "fuel" section of the Helms you bought.
Honda's don't have a harmonic balancer.
do check the lights/codes and check your Helms to determine what they are.
You can find more info about the codes in the beginning of the "fuel" section of the Helms you bought.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jurenic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, I did a swap for the first time, and everything was greate. Engine firs up instantly, it works nice. But the problem is that check engine light is on, and since timing belt is brand new, it makes screatchy noise, only when I start it up and when it idels for few minutes after start-up. Will check engine go away later after computer accept it ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
if you have Ac, or power sterring you may have to make sure that yours belts are tight, or even your alternator belt may be loose give them a good snug and then start the car again.
as for the check engine light you will have pull the codes from the ecu, do as all the others have said to do, if it has code count how many time the light blinks and find that code in your helms....
if you have Ac, or power sterring you may have to make sure that yours belts are tight, or even your alternator belt may be loose give them a good snug and then start the car again.
as for the check engine light you will have pull the codes from the ecu, do as all the others have said to do, if it has code count how many time the light blinks and find that code in your helms....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4drEF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Honda's don't have a harmonic balancer.
do check the lights/codes and check your Helms to determine what they are.
You can find more info about the codes in the beginning of the "fuel" section of the Helms you bought.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didnt know that. DAMN! im such a noob.
Honda's don't have a harmonic balancer.
do check the lights/codes and check your Helms to determine what they are.
You can find more info about the codes in the beginning of the "fuel" section of the Helms you bought.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didnt know that. DAMN! im such a noob.
it might be your altenator belt that is squeeling, usually it does that if its too loose or too tight, if its not that then you have problems your timing belt shouldnt make any noise, you have a helms you need to check the mpfi section for trouble codes. Figure out what the code is and we can help.
Did you check the ECU codes? The light should be blinking inside the actual ECU. The ECU is bolted to the floor inside the car where the passengers feet go. If the check engine light is on, there should be a code blinking. Count the blinks and find the chart in the helms or let us know.
I'm at work and burnt out, but since no one else replied, I'm guessing the TPS is broken or bad or unplugged. It is the black sensor on the throttle body on the backside with a three prong plug.
Use the throttle body off of your old motor. You will have to take out the 4 bolts that hold it on, keep track of the vacume hoses, and disconnect the coolant line that passes through the bottom of the throttle body. I suggest taking it off of the old motor first so that you know what you're doing when you remove it from your new. I think it is held on by 4 12 or 14 mm bolts (or nuts on studs). (I just said nuts on studs
).
Good luck.
I don't meant to write this stuff like you don't know what you're doing, but I'd rather be clear than vague.
Use the throttle body off of your old motor. You will have to take out the 4 bolts that hold it on, keep track of the vacume hoses, and disconnect the coolant line that passes through the bottom of the throttle body. I suggest taking it off of the old motor first so that you know what you're doing when you remove it from your new. I think it is held on by 4 12 or 14 mm bolts (or nuts on studs). (I just said nuts on studs
). Good luck.
I don't meant to write this stuff like you don't know what you're doing, but I'd rather be clear than vague.
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