#1 - 185
#2 - 212
#3 - 165
#4 - 224

This is 9-10 cranks, WOT, no fuel. I re-warmed the motor (first time was luke warm) and came up with the same results.


I've got just a bit more than 25% difference from the highest to lowest.

Oh well. Not great. A couple of months ago (and one driving school ago) they were all above 200. It's been 20,000+ miles since my valves were adjusted, hopefully that's all it is.

Time for a leakdown test! I'm pretty sure it's the rings because I noticed a little bit of oil spray on the underside of my hood by the dipstick (the rubber on the dipstick is burned off, mostly, again. Could be a little excessive blowby.

Plegh!

-Chris

 

I am curiouse what mine is now... last time I check my compression test I was 270 across the board...

Something tells me my motor is going to blow up anyday now

 

what made you do the comp test? is it running bad? wasnt it just running great at the track recently?

 

Probably wasn't passing Porsches at the rate of speed that he likes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what made you do the comp test? is it running bad? wasnt it just running great at the track recently?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A few reasons--- First, I did an HPDE at an excessively high boost.
Second, I ran totally lean coming out of a carousel (out of fuel) and my EGT's spiked to 1900 or so.
Third, the "new" oil spots on the underside of my hood above my dipstick

I "thought" the idle sounded a little rough? But it's likely my imagination combined with a louder exhaust.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrewCityR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Probably wasn't passing Porsches at the rate of speed that he likes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha, ha, hahaha.

 

any smoke out the valve cover? i say stop driving it to further contaminate

any visible leaks? like headgasket? or any unusual high pitch noise?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any smoke out the valve cover? i say stop driving it to further contaminate

any visible leaks? like headgasket?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I took the valve cover breather off, and revved the sucker. Nothing visible.

Coolant is clean as heck. It's a new radiator so I can tell it hasn't got anything unusual in it. Oil, is, well, oily and not contaminated visibly.

Oil was changed 150 miles ago and I haven't burned any (dipstick top dot still covered.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any unusual high pitch noise?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I DO have an unusual noise? A light tapping, really high frequency, while idling. I can hear it near my wastegate, I was assuming a slightly loose valve on the WG, but maybe it was coming from a valve? I'm not sure if it's a new noise or not, I'm still getting used to the turbo noises.

I'll listen to it again to get a better location/description. What are you getting at? Valve I assume?


EDIT:: I listened to it again. I think it is the WG. I pulled the oil fill plug and listened to the valves from there. Normal valvetrainey noises. Whirring and bouncing oil droplets, that's about it.

So, no unusual noises, just the wastegate I never noticed before.


Modified by ccfries at 10:35 PM 10/3/2004

 

well. in my case, when my piston seals went (120 compression on #3), i heard high frequency screeching noise from pistons as there was blowby.. from breather valve (and i don't run a filter anymore because it can clog and lead to more problems) and smoke after removing oil cap and oil shooting all over the place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well. in my case, when my piston seals went (120 compression on #3), i heard high frequency screeching noise from pistons as there was blowby.. from breather valve (and i don't run a filter anymore because it can clog and lead to more problems) and smoke after removing oil cap and oil shooting all over the place.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Makes sense. I don't have any of that yet.

So, what did you do to rebuild? Dealer? DIY? I'm trying to figure out my options.

 

The Dealership?

Dealership is the code word for the phrase: Let's rape this guys checking account.

 

15psi on a stock block got you a little worried?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">15psi on a stock block got you a little worried? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Bah! Honda == Reliability!

Well, the spikes were only 15 PSI, it was usually around 10-12. Stupid boost controller. Well, stupid boost controller user. It holds 10 PSI on the street, but apparently I haven't done enough tuning in 4th/5th gear pulls.

hehehe

Oh well I'm gonna get a quote from 2 dealers, probably Libertyville Acura (nearby) and Acura of Brookfield (WI) which has been rated really high by people that go there. I'll also see if CJ Motorsports wants a crack at it.

-Chris

 

gotta love Honda pistons. mine held compression awesome, and made mad power, but when i took the pistons out to rebuild, the ringlands broke in my hands. lol. shitty ****. lol

 

thats funny, i just did mine yesterday. 240s all the way across.

jdm itr motor

could be your piston rings as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Bah! Honda == Reliability!

Well, the spikes were only 15 PSI, it was usually around 10-12. Stupid boost controller. Well, stupid boost controller user. It holds 10 PSI on the street, but apparently I haven't done enough tuning in 4th/5th gear pulls.

hehehe

Oh well I'm gonna get a quote from 2 dealers, probably Libertyville Acura (nearby) and Acura of Brookfield (WI) which has been rated really high by people that go there. I'll also see if CJ Motorsports wants a crack at it.

-Chris


</TD></TR></TABLE>

do these people get their block rebuild for boost or at all? i'd recommend to find a reputable builder in your area that has done this type of work previously, not someone who punces in/out 9-5 just to have their day over. find somebody you can trust with your work, someone reputable with experience. also, you want to rebuild with stronger internals, at least forged pistons/rods. sgT (in VA) did my rebuild and did an excelent job. in my case je 10:1 pistons and eagle rods with stronger arp bolts (not larger diameter, but stronger i can't remember the name of these bolts). i'm also using arp headstuds other than that everything else is honda, all new seals, honda headgasket, honda bearings. i didin't sleeve because of cooling concern and chance of an error while doing install. benson sleeves seems like a good deal but i'm not placing enough hp to have the need for sleeves.

don't rush, make sure you got everything covered first. get all the parts, shop around cause you could save hudreds on parts or overpay hundreds.. its likely that sleeves are fine and its just piston rings, but you really won't know the damage until its apart..

 

Interesting news... It's an exhaust valve, not a piston ring. Hmm!

That really surprised me. Anyhow I probably scorched em a little when running lean (out of gas) on an already hot motor.

I think I'm just going to drive it until the compression gets worse, then get fancy new valves and probably new pistons anyway.

Maybe I'll get them adjusted, but I don't know if that would help.

 

New data:

Yesterday:

#1 | #2 | #3 | #4
185 212 165 224

After SEAFOAM:

#1 | #2 | #3 | #4
170 202 185 212

*shrug* I'll check it in a month.

-Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interesting news... It's an exhaust valve, not a piston ring. Hmm!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

what made you come to that conclusion?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what made you come to that conclusion?</TD></TR></TABLE>
oops...

Leakdown test, hissing in the tailpipe.

-Chris

 

the oil above the dipstick is normal for the greddy kit....I can't tell you how many dipsticks I have melted. I got smart and got a golden eagle stainless steel one and have had no problems with oil about the dipstick since

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostR41 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the oil above the dipstick is normal for the greddy kit....I can't tell you how many dipsticks I have melted. I got smart and got a golden eagle stainless steel one and have had no problems with oil about the dipstick since</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't find a store that sells these.. I guess I'll have to call them in the morning. STR discontinued their B1xCx dipsticks.

 

I would guess most dealers in the sponsor forum that deal with golden eagle can get you one...you have to really push it in to the tube so it is a very nice tight fit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ccfries &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">#1 - 185
#2 - 212
#3 - 165
#4 - 224
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Compression is better now after another HPDE. 195, 21x, 195, 220.
Exhaust valves must have re-seated themselves, or something...

-Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoostR41 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would guess most dealers in the sponsor forum that deal with golden eagle can get you one...you have to really push it in to the tube so it is a very nice tight fit</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that didn't work out so well. On my 3rd hot HPDE session, the GE dipstick popped out and spewed a few tablespoons of oil on my exhaust manifold and hood. It was enough smoke for me to pit and check compression. The rubber gaskets holding the dipstick in burned off again.

All is well though, just need another new dipstick.

 

did you recheck your valve lash?

If the exhaust valve lash was too tight, it might've been keeping the exhaust valve open all the time..... hence the low compression test #'s.....

I always do the valve lash before compression and leakdown tests..... that way you know it's not something minor...