I read all the topics on the auto and manual tensioner on ludes, and I don't see how one can go about changing it while the engines still in the car.

Can anyone please give me some pointers on replacing the tensioner.

Also its just barely started rattling around 1-2K rpm, is it dangerous to keep driving like this?


Thanks in Advance

 

buy a Helms manual (www.helmsinc.com)... getting into those tight areas is a bitch, expect to bust some knuckles. Its a zillion times less stressful if the engine is lifted out of the car.

 

I have the service manual on CD that i got from ebay, from the looks of it, I have to take out all the belts the plastic covers, and the large lower pully, is this correct?

 

Umm how else would you get to it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salvageland &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the service manual on CD that i got from ebay, from the looks of it, I have to take out all the belts the plastic covers, and the large lower pully, is this correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Correct.

Are you using 2point6's write up on it as a guide?

 

yes, I read 2point6's write up, but dang the belt side has absolutely no room to work with, is it easier to do all this from the top end of the motor or the bottom end with the driver wheel out of the way?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by salvageland &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, I read 2point6's write up, but dang the belt side has absolutely no room to work with, is it easier to do all this from the top end of the motor or the bottom end with the driver wheel out of the way?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would definately work from the lower end.

It think it would be a pain in the *** to do it from
the top end with the bracket for the right engine
mount in the way

 

Yes you can do it with the motor in the car, thats how I did it along with many others.

Some things you do from the top of the car, some things from the bottom. Why do you ask? If you're not mechanically inclined or have some knowledge I would advise you not to do this yourself. Many people fail to set their cam timing properly after replacing the belt. You dont want to cause more headaches then its worth.

Also something to look forward to. After you install and tighten up all the new components, you'll notice the belt will start to slip off the cam gear. About 1/4" of the belt will not be seated on the gear(once you spin the motor a few times), and you have to figure out how to fix it


Modified by 99_SH at 1:38 AM 10/4/2004


Modified by 99_SH at 1:39 AM 10/4/2004

 

It can be done. With the engine in the car, swapping the tensioner isn't much trickier than doing just a straight up timing belt job - you need to play with the tensioner either way. You work from both the top and bottom, depending on what you need to reach, jacking the motor up and down on the remaining 3 mounts. You'll need a variety of extensions & different size ratchets/sockets on hand to get at all the various bolts.

Having a Helms on hand is a MUST.

 

did it to my car about 2 weeks ago its a bitch, but get a helms