creaking/shuddering LF corner
98 itr/tein ra coilovers.
when the car is stationary and i turn the wheel back and forth, the left front corner creaks/metallic grind sound/clunky sound.
when cornering fairly hard (left turns) the left front corner shudders, like the tire is not planted...shakes until car is straight again.
when going straight and the road is bumpy, the left front corner jumps up and down rapidly, almost like the spring and dampener is not working.
coilovers are working properly.
what is the issue?
is it the one of the ball joints maybe?
when the car is stationary and i turn the wheel back and forth, the left front corner creaks/metallic grind sound/clunky sound.
when cornering fairly hard (left turns) the left front corner shudders, like the tire is not planted...shakes until car is straight again.
when going straight and the road is bumpy, the left front corner jumps up and down rapidly, almost like the spring and dampener is not working.
coilovers are working properly.
what is the issue?
is it the one of the ball joints maybe?
Just bought one yesterday 45 bux.. *******.. if you got time to wait, call up Len, he could probably get it alot cheaper. As for replacing it, I've talked to Will and he said it is possibly one of the hardes pieces to replace.. Hope you have patients, a big *** hammer and a press. I haven't done it yet, but i'll let u all know how much it sucked after I get done with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hope you have patients, a big *** hammer and a press.</TD></TR></TABLE>
will this work instead of a press?

Don't risk damaging essential parts on your vehicle by using the wrong tools. This kit removes and installs ball joints, universal joints and truck brake anchor pins. Even removes rusted and corroded parts with ease. Set includes C-frame press, three receiver tubes (one 2-3/4'' I.D. x 3'' O.D., one 2-1/4'' I.D. x 2-1/2'' O.D. and one 1-3/4'' I.D. x 2'' O.D.) and installation and removing adapters, threaded rod and a blow mold case.
ITEM 38335-0VGA
$39.99
harbor freight link
will this work instead of a press?

Don't risk damaging essential parts on your vehicle by using the wrong tools. This kit removes and installs ball joints, universal joints and truck brake anchor pins. Even removes rusted and corroded parts with ease. Set includes C-frame press, three receiver tubes (one 2-3/4'' I.D. x 3'' O.D., one 2-1/4'' I.D. x 2-1/2'' O.D. and one 1-3/4'' I.D. x 2'' O.D.) and installation and removing adapters, threaded rod and a blow mold case.
ITEM 38335-0VGA
$39.99
harbor freight link
yeah its a huge pain to replace the lower ball joint. Just be ready to hammer and hammer and hammer. And also bring earplugs. Its as loud as can be.
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Step 1 - remove LCA
Step 2 - drive to machine shop with LCA and new balljoint
Step 3 - return to machine shop to pick up LCA
Step 4 - reinstall LCA.
Step 2 - drive to machine shop with LCA and new balljoint
Step 3 - return to machine shop to pick up LCA
Step 4 - reinstall LCA.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1 - remove LCA
Step 2 - drive to machine shop with LCA and new balljoint
Step 3 - return to machine shop to pick up LCA
Step 4 - reinstall LCA.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The lower ball joint is not on the LCA, its on the vertical. So you have to remove the upper ball joint (which is on the upper control arm), the lower ball joint (bolted to the lca, pressed into the vertical) and the axel, possibly the hub. It's a bitch. I haven't done it so i could be wrong, but from looking at the pictures, removal of the hub is needed to make room to press out the old and press in the new ball joint.
Step 2 - drive to machine shop with LCA and new balljoint
Step 3 - return to machine shop to pick up LCA
Step 4 - reinstall LCA.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The lower ball joint is not on the LCA, its on the vertical. So you have to remove the upper ball joint (which is on the upper control arm), the lower ball joint (bolted to the lca, pressed into the vertical) and the axel, possibly the hub. It's a bitch. I haven't done it so i could be wrong, but from looking at the pictures, removal of the hub is needed to make room to press out the old and press in the new ball joint.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik95LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah its a huge pain to replace the lower ball joint. Just be ready to hammer and hammer and hammer. And also bring earplugs. Its as loud as can be.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just did mines. that tool pictured above is useless. The verticle is angled just off enough that you can't use that. Get a 4lbs hammer and use the attachments from the tool above and use the sidewalk. hard to explain but you'll understand what you have to do when you see it.
I just did mines. that tool pictured above is useless. The verticle is angled just off enough that you can't use that. Get a 4lbs hammer and use the attachments from the tool above and use the sidewalk. hard to explain but you'll understand what you have to do when you see it.
It's a pain to replace if you'be never done it before. I just took my front hubs off and had a friend at a local Honda shop press the old one out and tap the new ones in. He had them both done in about 5 minutes, as he's done it a few times before.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaRcB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> local Honda shop press the old one</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah its easy to do the job when u have tools made specificly for that job
I think anybody could do it in 5 minutes if they had a Honda press built to remove a Honda ball joint
Yeah its easy to do the job when u have tools made specificly for that job
I think anybody could do it in 5 minutes if they had a Honda press built to remove a Honda ball joint
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Step 1 - remove LCA
Step 2 - drive to machine shop with LCA and new balljoint
Step 3 - return to machine shop to pick up LCA
Step 4 - reinstall LCA.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even better:
Step 1 - Drive to King Motorsports
Step 2 - Hand mechanics your keys
Step 3 - Go hang out in the office and chat with Scott & Clayton
Step 4 - Write out check for labor

Edit: It's not a bad idea to replace the wheel bearing while things are apart too.
Step 2 - drive to machine shop with LCA and new balljoint
Step 3 - return to machine shop to pick up LCA
Step 4 - reinstall LCA.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Even better:
Step 1 - Drive to King Motorsports
Step 2 - Hand mechanics your keys
Step 3 - Go hang out in the office and chat with Scott & Clayton
Step 4 - Write out check for labor

Edit: It's not a bad idea to replace the wheel bearing while things are apart too.
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