I would like a quick opinion on those 2 topics :

- The race car received an itr rear swaybar. it is running 450/350 rates atm. Mostly race on rough local tracks. I did not had the chance to test drive the difference between having a front sway or not. I probably won't until May 2005 I have, right now, a very good deal on a front OEM 92-95 Si swaybar. Probably under 20$ w/ endlinks. Should I just get it install it next season or it is totally unworthy ?

- I currently have a 1998 b18b with an LS tranny. Not that I do not like it, I like it a lot (so reliable), but I've got a great offer on it. A good friend of me want it (shortblock only). Would a b20b w/ LS cam, LS intake manifold, H-E, really make a good difference over the stock b18b ? Should I just go for aggressive cams/valvetrain and bump the compression a bit in the b18b ? get an Si/Sir 99-00 tranny and call it a day ? or simply get a stock form b20b (except for LS parts) ?

Feel free to comment.
Thanks

Patrick

 

well im sure you already know what i think about the front bar, but ill say it again. I don't really think they are neccasary and i think that if you put one on its just gona force you to go with higher rear rates and a bigger rear bar.

as far as the motor. i like the b18 more then the b20, its just personal preferance i guess, but id say stick with the b18, get a ITR tranny, thin headgasket and mill the head for alil compression, and get some mild cams.


ooo ya if you looking for a smoken deal on a head PM me my buddy has a sweet deal

 

Personnally I think The for me the b20 was a very nice step above the b18

Mine had a stock intake with K&N drop in witha ported 64mm tb a skunk 2 im and honda IM gasket, No ac or ps, But kamikaze 2.5in collector header and catco cat and straigth and down style exhaust and even with the LS box it was very strong, when I switched to the b16 gear it was very very strong and had power all the way from idle to 7K with fuel tuning, I would say the most power the tires were even capable of really putting down without further supsension and chasis mods on a DA

That same motor ran a very low 13 in a civic with hardcore traction issue's BTW but the civic was super light maybe 300#'s lighter than yours

 

Thanks Jimmy, i appreciate the comment.

FF Lotus : Stock internals ?

2 replies, 2 opinion, damn ! hehe

Patrick

 

Also, wouldn't a front sway eliminate even more body roll w/o affectiong much the car handling ?

 

Yeah stock internals

Replacing the IM and the EM on the b20 makes quite an improvement. Mine was making 150 to the wheels with that set up tuned

 

sway bars have a huge effect on a cars handeling

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FF lotus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah stock internals

Replacing the IM and the EM on the b20 makes quite an improvement. Mine was making 150 to the wheels with that set up tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice ! I'll try to localy find someone who did it and go have a ride...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sway bars have a huge effect on a cars handeling</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i meant like, it would change some things, but wouldn't hurt by anyway the car's rotation.

thanks for understanding my english

Pat

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sway bars have a huge effect on a cars handeling</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks captain

 

Hmmm a stock internal B20 w/ full bolt-on's making 150whp??? AND running low 13's in a Civic??? I hope it has a SMSP/Hytech make header on there and tuned with MoTeC. I hope the Civic weighed under 1800lbs. Just seems a little far fetched.

Me personally I'd just keep the B18 and build that. Build it to the limit of the rules. First thing I'd do is junk the tranny and get a B16A w/ factory LSD or ITR which ever you find cheaper and suits you. Or aftermarket LSD if you can afford. Next for cheap you can put ITR or B16A pistons in freshen up the bottom end and either build the top end or put a GSR head on it and then build that. Lots of options. What are you limitations?

 

There are no limitation. The car runs a few autoX event each summer (5-10) and i am already in a heavy modified class. Road race is mostly time attack, free lapping, and a very few competitive event. (there aren't much organisation for road racing here)

I tought that I could sell my shortblock and get a b20b for very cheap and that it could perform better on the track. No way im gonna swap a vtec head or get an aftermarket lsd (I just can't $$$). Getting the b20b and selling the b18b would be much cheaper then rebuilding the b18b, that's why i tought it could be a great move.

More comments are more then welcome

 

Oh. Well the only reason I recomended the VTEC head or LSD or tranny swap was you mentioned doing a tranny swap or building your LS head, so the money you would invest in a VTEC head swap would be similar.

Well in that case if you aint got money to do anything be sure the block you would get getting is in the same if not better condition. At minimal compression and leak test. Also make sure that it is a Z block and not a B block. No use getting an 84mm bore block if it's only 8.8:1 compression. The Z block should put you in the 9.6:1 range. So with slightly more compression (might as well mill your head .030" while it's off) and 84mm bore you should see some pretty decent gains. Probably in the 8-10whp range with equal to less tq gains I would say. Just remember B20 walls are thinner and are prone to cracking a lot more so then an LS block. Cylinder wall pressure is still going to be around the same so if you rev your LS engine higher then stock, might want to slightly more cautious with the B20. Good luck.

 

i have a B20Z and love it. now its matched with an LS trans and i dont really like it to much. the engine rocks.. i plan on in distant distant future getting a ITR trans and i think it will be alot better!

 

The civic was 1600#'s with motor

The stock LS was making 117-121 whp so add another 10% automatically 133 hp with just the stock LS IM and EM since the b20's sucked so really only about a 17hp gain which is actually not that high with a b20z it would have made even more I'm sure

For that power level Mo-Tec tuning is pretty overboard for a street car and simple AFC tuning does very well.

Of all the b20's I've driven I loved that set up the most as it's really close to what I think a gsr 2.0L would feel like with an LS trans, which is basically power everywhere till 7K though prolly the b16 box made a bigger improvement over anything else.

The car pulled so hard I literally launched the change tray into the back seat during one quick spin with someone looking at b16 swaps he bought a b20 shortly after

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FF lotus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The civic was 1600#'s with motor</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok so that makes up a lot of it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stock LS was making 117-121 whp so add another 10% automatically 133 hp with just the stock LS IM and EM since the b20's sucked so really only about a 17hp gain which is actually not that high with a b20z it would have made even more I'm sure

For that power level Mo-Tec tuning is pretty overboard for a street car and simple AFC tuning does very well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you just guessing?? I mean you said 150whp like it dynoed 150whp. Now you are saying you had an LS that made about 120ish then you are just automatically saying add 10% because you added a B20 block and put the stock LS IM (which I'm aware is better then the B20) but still not that great, and then put the stock LS EM on which ain't much better either, and magically came up with 133hp. The MoTeC comment was a joke obviously. So was this thing ever on a dyno as well?

Or did it make the 150whp on the change tray dyno??? Thanks.


To the OG poster, like I said before if it's free AND shows good compression and leakdown and you can do the swap yourself to justify the labor, sure go ahead. Like I said don't expect any miracles though, you'll show decent gains as I posted earlier.


Modified by Mr Milano at 7:57 AM 10/2/2004