a couple of weeks ago I asked you fellas for some advise regarding a tickin/rattle noise in my engine. I thought it was the valves, so I did an adjust... noise was still there. Those that wanted to help said injectors, exhaust leak, and or loose parts, well i really appreciated all the advice. Fortunately for me, (b/c of my poor student status) a friend back home knew a mechanic and he was able to get him to check it out for me. Right away, he said it was the dist. cap and rotor; he was positive. He even popped it off and showed me the wear & tear and I was grateful b/c he didn't charge me a dime and he showed me how easy it is to fix too.

i know it's inexpensive to fix, but right now i don't have bank to do it, so i can't say he was correct or not.

what do you guys think? is he wrong or does he know his stuff?

 

after he changed it did he fix it?

well basically just going down the list of things that could be wrong

but if I was you I will double check the distributor and check for any oil
in there the seal could be broken and therefore the rattle..

 

Wait. I just went through this. Rattling ticking in the base of the distributor when cold. Fine when warm but top end a bit noisy after warmup. Had at least two pro mechanics tell me it was the distributor bearings. Went through two used distributors, no change. One of them told me it was still a bad distib. Bought a new aftermarket. Same problem.
Then after searching I hear a couple of guys suggesting that it can be caused by a loose timing belt. Since I had the tb replaced almost as soon as I bought the car two years ago, I couldn't really tell if it was a problem DUE TO the TB install. I thought I trusted the guy who put it in.

Yesterday I pulled the valve cover. TB had about 9/16" slack at TDC! Pulled top motor mount, ps reservoir and pump, valve cover and did the FSM procedure for tensioning the TB. Slack now only 3/16" or less. Did a nice strip and paint on the valve cover, checked valve clearances, put the PS pump and motor mount back in and the problem is gone. In fact, the motor hasn't sounded this quiet since I've owned it. Smooth quiet.

Seems as though the guy who replaced the TB never adjusted the tensioner.
Check it. Cheap 3-4 hour job if you DIY.



Modified by speedy400 at 8:49 PM 10/3/2004

 

Dont know exactly what your askn? but if your askn if your mates mechanic friend is right then I would say he problably is. I had a ticking sound coming from under my hood and it turned out to be the bearings in the dizzy, i replaced the dizzy but it still happened so i took it into the shop and they replaced that dizzy with another and walluh!! all sweet.

 

thanks for the info, it helps a lot!

 

Rayscar, in answer to your question ":
I see that you did end up having a loose T-belt but how does this cause the dist. base to rattle?? Does it shake the engine that bad. The dist. and t-belt are on opposite sides?? Help me understand this. Do you think I would be wasting my time if i replace the cap and rotor; it's inexpensive to do so if it turns out to be just that."

My answer:
The loose tbelt sure did make the dist rattle! The whole top end of the engine was noisy but not really "shaking".
In your case, I don't think the rattle can be cured by replacing the cap and rotor, but if your cap and rotor are worn they should be replaced anyway. If you engine is mis-firing or running poorly that is usually the sign of cap and rotor wear.

Yes, it's strange that the tbelt and dist are on opposite sides and one causes problems in the other. But the drive for the distributor does come from the crankshaft, crank pulley, via the timing belt, cam gear, along the intake cam through the slotted dist shaft gear. There is some "play" built into the slotted gear at the base of the distributor and my guess is the actual ticking comes from small, rotational variations and movement of the cam gear as it drives the distributor. That's why it sounds like a distributor bearing problem.

My suggestion before you spend money is to pull the valve cover, rotate the crank 6 revs CCW per the manual and set the #1 cylinder at TDC. Check the tension on the timing belt between the two cam gears. I took before and after pictures and can send them if you need to compare yours. But with just finger presure down on the TB, it would move 9/16". After tensioning it went to less than 3/16". Quite a change. If yours is about 1/2" I would say it needs tensioning. The manual explains how to do this. It took me a few hours, taking my time. But, if you've adjusted valves yourself, you can certainly check your TB for tension before you spend any money.

 

Rayscar, here's the pic you asked for.

Before tension adjust - 9/16" deflection.
http://www.lapps.net/rick/DSC00054.JPG

After tensioning, pushing down with same forced moved it very little.. about 3/16".
Sorry, don't have an "after" pic.