or is is fine for daily driving and occasional track use? I mean except for the oil pan and the brake pads is all that money spent on IHE,cams,after market computers and better spark all worth it? or does some where in the power
ban suffer with these mods. Can you tune it and improve the performance
and just make it better than stock from idle to red line? thanks for all the comments they are always welcomed!

 

Depends on what your going to tune it with, If a VAFC you will see small gains, Hondata or AEM EMS with produce more gains due to the fine tunning you are able to do.

Over all any tunning is a good thing just because you will use less gas and gain power if not then just smoothing it out will feel like more power.

 

if you have a stock type r, i wouldn't suggest tuning. however, if you run i/h/e or some mild build, i'd tune it just so it wouldn't run so rich and there would be worthy gain.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PY 01-0972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or is is fine for daily driving and occasional track use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It all depends on your goals. It's great for daily driving & some track use in stock form. If you want to autox, staying stock has a lot of advantages. But if modding a car is what makes you happy, you can get good results modding the R...

 

i remember reading somewhere that an s2k made 25 whp with just an aem tuned. So i'm sure an R can do the same.

 

not likely (at least in stock form)

The exhaust in the USDM R is too restrictive for large gains like those...

(remember, this motor is alreadly "tuned" from the factory)

 

Tuned to their likings. I think you can get more out of it completely stock. Remember, the JDM c5 has more HP.


Modified by HyperITR742 at 9:02 AM 9/28/2004

 

If not broken, don't fix it!
Reliability is the key so minor bolts on is ok.
Once you mess with internals, no gurantee plus tight emission law, why the hassle.
Dollar vs hps gain is not worth it.
" Just enjoy the ride!"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HyperITR742 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tuned to their likings. I think you can get more out of it completely stock. Remember, the JDM c5 has more HP. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, it also has a much better header, larger cat, higher compression pistons, and is tuned for JDM fuel which has a higher octane rating...

 

What he said. As a comparison, my motor completely stock other than JDM ITR pistons definitely had more oomph than with the USDM pistons. That's without any tuning whatsoever.

 

Yeah, i'm an idiot. I forgot it had different internals.
But i do remember reading somewhere that the AEM EMS gave a stock s2k 25 whp..maybe he had a few modss but i can't remember

 

I'd suggest just trying to learn how to drive the car better, if you're not already at that level.

 

If that (driving) is one of your priorities, it's definitely better to start learning with the R stock. It's pretty damn good right out of the box, so by the time you really get it down on stock suspension and such, you should be a fairly decent driver.

 

I feel very comfortable driving the r now after the one year I have owned it. it just seems that the low end always seems to suffer on all motor mods. I mean I have seen gains of over 20 hp with a great intake and full exhaust. but the gains seem to be at the higher rpm's and we dont all drive at 6000 to 8500 all the time :-) I guess its the same ol question is it worth the $1000 for an intake and full 2.5 exhaust in a daily driving situation? thanks again for the comments. by the way the
R makes you drive all cars better IMHO

 

Where the powerband improves pretty much depends on WHICH mods you go with. For example, some headers or cat-backs are made for high-end power (just as an example, supposedly the Fujitsubo Power-getter), whereas others are for low to mid-range power (the Fujitsubo RM01A). No matter what, you're dealing with a pretty high-strung engine, so unless you go FI or something, you'll still be dealing with high rpm power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PY 01-0972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or is is fine for daily driving and occasional track use? </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not worth daily driving unless you get a Turbo.

-Chris

Well, really, I guess you could get away without the turbo :D The thing is a blast on the track bone stock, with just brake pad upgrades. Don't take it anywhere on the OEM ones.

 

The 20+ WHP gained on the S2k with the AEM EMS was listed on their forums. I don't remember if it was for the 2.0 Liter, 2.2 Liter version.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PY 01-0972 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we dont all drive at 6000 to 8500 all the time :-) </TD></TR></TABLE>

...We don't?

...Oh.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by machgo5go &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dollar vs hps gain is not worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think this is the best way to put it. for me even basic boltons are waiste of money unless you are racing and getting some money back, it don't make much of a difference and tuning these can improve overall drivability and performance, but can also cause problems with drivability, performance and emmisions depending where you live..

so i say tune only if its critical enough where you a/f is at compramise and could damage your engine, - at this point you have to retune ecu maps or may end up damaging something.