Ok, SOMETIMES when the car accelerates, the car will bog out, meaning if you would WOT it would not get ANY power, it would literally just bog, for however long you pushed on the pedal, feeling like its getting no spark and the tach drops to zero. But here is the kicker:

I replaced the cap and rotor 2-3 months ago, and this problem went away, like completely, I drive the car alot, and tonight, during a test drive with someone who was stoked about the car, it compeletly reared its ugly head. It started doing it again, the test driver probly thought I was the shadiest cat in the world. Really frusterating to have this happen right before selling the car. I dont wanna screw anyone when selling a car. One thing I dont get is that if you click the key off, then back on when you are driving, it stops doing it for a little while, I dont know why it only does it when you drive hard either.

In a pervious thread, I was told the problem was the ignitor, I just need to know for sure, before I go fixing things to sell the car, i dont want to dump 400$ into a car that im only selling for 1800$ you know?

Should I replace the ignitor? should I clean the connections to the ignitor? if so, what do I clean them with? anyone in norcal wanna come help a brotha out?

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

keepin it up top

 

does your main relay make a clicking sound?

put your hand on it when it bogs or listen for a clicking noise

but this happened to me, i replaced the ignitor, problem solved
usually the connections dont come loose if the ignitor is stock
but when you replace it MAKE SURE THEY ARE TIGHT

make sure you replace it soon, because in a day or two your car will not start or drive at all

 

well, the thing is, the car had this problem for a month before, got worse and worse, replaced the cap and rotor, problem didnt surface again until tonight. I think its loose connections, ill spray the connetors with brake cleaner, and put some dielectric compound on them. You think that would solve things?

 

Fuel filter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ijjz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Fuel filter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt its the fuel filter, just because when I replaced the cap and rotor, it went away....so I know its something in the distributor.


Should I put dielectric compound on the connections to help? or is that a no no in distributors?

 

Oh well. Lets fix this, bump.

 

Ignitor. my did the same thing. If the tack is jumping around its the distributor. I replaced my coil an my ignitor, problem solved. Sometime the connections inside the cap come loose. be sure to tighten them down

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ignitor. my did the same thing. If the tack is jumping around its the distributor. I replaced my coil an my ignitor, problem solved. Sometime the connections inside the cap come loose. be sure to tighten them down</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya, thats what ima do tonight, I bought some dielectric grease and some brake cleaner to spray it with, im make sure everything inside that dist is nice and functional. the car runs like a champ, but the problem is sparatic, so its not like a constant thing that just tells me its goin out slowly, or at all. So it makes me draw the conclusion that its a loose connection, and I want to sell the car, so I might as well go through it and fix whatever is up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VtecKiDD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ignitor. my did the same thing. If the tack is jumping around its the distributor. I replaced my coil an my ignitor, problem solved. Sometime the connections inside the cap come loose. be sure to tighten them down</TD></TR></TABLE>

copycat

the connections on ignitor are real bad about being loose if u fool around in there always check them amke sure they are tight and if they arent, jusst grab pliers and carefully press the connector to tighten it upoh ya dont usse grease in there, itll make eveerything nassty.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnzm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

copycat

the connections on ignitor are real bad about being loose if u fool around in there always check them amke sure they are tight and if they arent, jusst grab pliers and carefully press the connector to tighten it upoh ya dont usse grease in there, itll make eveerything nassty. </TD></TR></TABLE>

its not really "grease" its a sort of compound that basically makes a weak electrical connection better. It also keeps things from corroding to my knowledge.

 

dielectric grease or otherwise sold as "tune up" grease is made to cover electrical parts so they dont corrode. but in fact, the nature of dielectrical grease is that it is an electrical insulator, it does NOT conduct electricity. however it allows a clean, physical connection between the metal contacts of the terminals to insure a good electrical connection. if it were electrically conductive, think about all the different electrical gremlins would occur if the same blob of grease touches different terminals around it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo Dan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does your main relay make a clicking sound?

but this happened to me, i replaced the ignitor, problem solved
usually the connections dont come loose if the ignitor is stock
but when you replace it MAKE SURE THEY ARE TIGHT
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are the man! I don't want to jack this guys thread but I have had this problem for months nobody could figure it out. So after reading this I went out removed the cap and rotor, and sure enough there was a super loose wire on the ignitor I tightened it with plires and it works like a champ. 5 min labor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgsr91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You are the man! I don't want to jack this guys thread but I have had this problem for months nobody could figure it out. So after reading this I went out removed the cap and rotor, and sure enough there was a super loose wire on the ignitor I tightened it with plires and it works like a champ. 5 min labor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya...I just pulled mine all apart, was fine for a day...now its doing it again :/

 

I had same problem. Super misfire during low rpm (&lt;1k), high load (50%+ tps) condition. And sometimes it would do this under high load as high as 2k rpm. It got worse and worse to the point where it was misfiring just sitting at idle. I eventually narrowed it down to the Ignitor. I ended up replacing the distributor with a unit from the Distributor King. Fixed all my problems.

 

muchman is right...your tach goes to zero when it miss fires is WRONG sucks but your going to have to replace your whole distributor. I had that problem. sometimes it would stop running sit for a few mins wont crank then BAM cranking strts up and its fine. i would drive down the road and the tachs jumping to 8k the car shuts off while im driving and starts back up on its own. I thought i was driving kirby the bug that bitch was going crazy. Like he said replace the distributor and your good to go...sorry kid

 

I never had any problems with the tach going nuts. Thats has to be the cam sensor. Mine also got real bad to the point where Id have to crank it over for 30+ secs to get it to start. Either way replace the distributor!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">muchman is right...your tach goes to zero when it miss fires is WRONG sucks but your going to have to replace your whole distributor. I had that problem. sometimes it would stop running sit for a few mins wont crank then BAM cranking strts up and its fine. i would drive down the road and the tachs jumping to 8k the car shuts off while im driving and starts back up on its own. I thought i was driving kirby the bug that bitch was going crazy. Like he said replace the distributor and your good to go...sorry kid</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats not even close to whats happening to me...like I said, ill be driving, then all of a sudden while im accelrating, itll just bog down, tach will go to zero, might do it the whole time im on the gas, if I let off and then try to floor it, itll just bog, just a little gas will get it by, or it will just be fine, seems like a loose connection of some sort.

 

didnt you say you replaced your igniter? no change right it stopped for a week then it did it again? well look. the thing thats running your tach is you distributor...when your tach is jumping around(in my case) or dropping to zero(also my case and yours) then i guarantee you its your distributor. im willing to stretch my nuts to the ground if its not. You can go to a junk yard and get one and see if it works just so you know it was it. just make sure you pay a little extra so you can return it if you CANT(didnt work)use it and they will let you return it. So if that doesnt work then im going to be in alot of pain but thats the prob. its that or your ecu and the chance of that is slimmer then alley mcbeal. replace the distributor it cant handle LOAD on it anymore thats why it bogs...another way it could bog would be fuel clog in line when you nail it, it gets too much air and no gas so it just wants to die BUT that doesnt explain the tach...good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> didnt you say you replaced your igniter? no change right it stopped for a week then it did it again? well look. the thing thats running your tach is you distributor...when your tach is jumping around(in my case) or dropping to zero(also my case and yours) then i guarantee you its your distributor. im willing to stretch my nuts to the ground if its not. You can go to a junk yard and get one and see if it works just so you know it was it. just make sure you pay a little extra so you can return it if you CANT(didnt work)use it and they will let you return it. So if that doesnt work then im going to be in alot of pain but thats the prob. its that or your ecu and the chance of that is slimmer then alley mcbeal. replace the distributor it cant handle LOAD on it anymore thats why it bogs...another way it could bog would be fuel clog in line when you nail it, it gets too much air and no gas so it just wants to die BUT that doesnt explain the tach...good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, I said I replaced my cap and rotor. Not my ignitor.

 

well you probably needed that anyway but ofcourse that wasnt going to chenge it. hey go ahead and do whatever. go buy an igniter if you want it should be around 100-145...see it doesnt really sound like the igniter because once they go bad THEY GO BAD.; They just stop workin they might last 2 days in bad shape but then they just stop working and your car wont start. it hasnt gone bad yet and its been going on for ahwile. Number 2 i dont think you tach is connected to your ingiter(correct me if im wrong) you either need to rebuild the dizzy or just replace it. Im telling you do what i said go find one at a junk yard and buy the liability with it put it on and if it works fine either use that one(it will go bad sooner or later because its probably old too) then take it back and say you never put it on that wasnt the prob. get your money back then buy a new one. ohwell im done helping suit yourself..goodluck