mpfi swap wont start (look over my wiring)
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From: Dark Side of the Moon
Ok i finished the mpfi swap and went to start it and it does start.
things i know,
1.) there is spark i tested each wire and plug and saw a spark
2.) there is fuel, u can smell the unburnt fuel in hte cylender when pulling hte plug
3.) the is compression 170 200 190 200
4.) no CEl when starting
5.) hte wires are on in the right order
now the car just cranks and cranks and doesnt even try to start
my wiring,
1.) since the Tandem Control Solenoid Valve and Fast Idle Control Solenoid Valve have the same pin i just ran the orange dx wire to the blue si motor wire.
2.) i tied both yellow black wires together off the primary and secondary injector and ran them the the black wire on the resistor (we used a different resistor it had 4 red wires and one black
3.) i connected a3 to red and a7 to yellow so the injectors are kosher
4.) i ran the smaller white wire and the orange wire to b12 and b10.
5.) the larger white wire that was on the si harness to the dissy the ran seperate to the other 6 dizzy wires i ran to the wire that was seperate to the dx harness
(if u look in the wire loom there is one larger white wire that is next to but not bundled with the other wires
6.) the blue green went to dx orange and the blue yellow went to the dx white
7.) orange blue went to orange blue and white blue went to white blue.
does this seem right, any ideas why this car wont start?
things i know,
1.) there is spark i tested each wire and plug and saw a spark
2.) there is fuel, u can smell the unburnt fuel in hte cylender when pulling hte plug
3.) the is compression 170 200 190 200
4.) no CEl when starting
5.) hte wires are on in the right order
now the car just cranks and cranks and doesnt even try to start
my wiring,
1.) since the Tandem Control Solenoid Valve and Fast Idle Control Solenoid Valve have the same pin i just ran the orange dx wire to the blue si motor wire.
2.) i tied both yellow black wires together off the primary and secondary injector and ran them the the black wire on the resistor (we used a different resistor it had 4 red wires and one black
3.) i connected a3 to red and a7 to yellow so the injectors are kosher
4.) i ran the smaller white wire and the orange wire to b12 and b10.
5.) the larger white wire that was on the si harness to the dissy the ran seperate to the other 6 dizzy wires i ran to the wire that was seperate to the dx harness
(if u look in the wire loom there is one larger white wire that is next to but not bundled with the other wires
6.) the blue green went to dx orange and the blue yellow went to the dx white
7.) orange blue went to orange blue and white blue went to white blue.
does this seem right, any ideas why this car wont start?
you sure you got the two white wires off the dizzy right? also and this is a stupid one so don't take offense, did you put the si ecu in and not forget the dpfi on in?
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From: Dark Side of the Moon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Converted »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you sure you got the two white wires off the dizzy right? also and this is a stupid one so don't take offense, did you put the si ecu in and not forget the dpfi on in?</TD></TR></TABLE>
hey i appreciate any help, there is a pm6 in the car, and i looked at the si harness the larger white wire wasnt "packaged" with the others and i hooked up this wire to the wire in the dx harness that was not with the others.
i gets spark if that makes a difference
hey i appreciate any help, there is a pm6 in the car, and i looked at the si harness the larger white wire wasnt "packaged" with the others and i hooked up this wire to the wire in the dx harness that was not with the others.
i gets spark if that makes a difference
man, i hope someone can figure this out cause its my car and i got no ride...
one symptom he didnt mention that might help..
when turning the key i noticed now the CEL flickers and clicks soooo fast its almost on solid. but its really blinking like 3 times per second and while its doin that theres a clicking coming from the dash????
one symptom he didnt mention that might help..
when turning the key i noticed now the CEL flickers and clicks soooo fast its almost on solid. but its really blinking like 3 times per second and while its doin that theres a clicking coming from the dash????
just a thought...did you switch the tps wires around?
it has something to do, not with the wiring but something else..hmmm...it was all working fine before you did the switch over right?......you'll find the problem..
it has something to do, not with the wiring but something else..hmmm...it was all working fine before you did the switch over right?......you'll find the problem..
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From: Dark Side of the Moon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1.6i »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a thought...did you switch the tps wires around?
it has something to do, not with the wiring but something else..hmmm...it was all working fine before you did the switch over right?......you'll find the problem..</TD></TR></TABLE>
i switched the tps wires this motor hasnt runing in atleat a year adn we dont know why they yanked it, i wonder if the spark isnt enought juice (bad ignitor)?
it has something to do, not with the wiring but something else..hmmm...it was all working fine before you did the switch over right?......you'll find the problem..</TD></TR></TABLE>
i switched the tps wires this motor hasnt runing in atleat a year adn we dont know why they yanked it, i wonder if the spark isnt enought juice (bad ignitor)?
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From: Dark Side of the Moon
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the CEL flickers? you did something wrong.. sounds like your resistor wiring. 4 red wires in, 1 black out. and all 4 injector yel/blk wires attached to that black wire.?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, most obd0 resistors are 4 red wires and one black, the one we got is 4 black and one red so i connected all the inejector red wires to each of the black wires and the red wire i connected to the yellow black of the primary injector
no, most obd0 resistors are 4 red wires and one black, the one we got is 4 black and one red so i connected all the inejector red wires to each of the black wires and the red wire i connected to the yellow black of the primary injector
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
5.) the larger white wire that was on the si harness to the dissy the ran seperate to the other 6 dizzy wires i ran to the wire that was seperate to the dx harness
(if u look in the wire loom there is one larger white wire that is next to but not bundled with the other wires
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wait.. did u use an Si engine harness on the DX main harness?
5.) the larger white wire that was on the si harness to the dissy the ran seperate to the other 6 dizzy wires i ran to the wire that was seperate to the dx harness
(if u look in the wire loom there is one larger white wire that is next to but not bundled with the other wires
</TD></TR></TABLE>
wait.. did u use an Si engine harness on the DX main harness?
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From: Dark Side of the Moon
checked all the grounds, thermo ground was loose, that took care of the clicking
but still no start and no CEL wtf? any ideas?
but still no start and no CEL wtf? any ideas?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad Chemist »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
, i wonder if the spark isnt enought juice (bad ignitor)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i've seen this a thousand times..it appears to have spark..but not enough to start the car..buy a spark tester from like auto zone or whatever...theyre pretty cheap
, i wonder if the spark isnt enought juice (bad ignitor)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i've seen this a thousand times..it appears to have spark..but not enough to start the car..buy a spark tester from like auto zone or whatever...theyre pretty cheap
IF ITS WEAK SPARK ITS GONNA BE YOUR COIL, NOT THE IGNITER...YOU CAN CHECK THIS BY TAKING THE COIL OFF THE DIST..ONCE OFF FLIP IT OVER AND REMOVE THE METAL COVER ON THE BACK..CHECK IF THE COIL HAS BEEN OVER HEATED BY DISOLORATION...THIS HAPPENS WHEN PEOPLE DONT CHANGE THEY'RE SPARK PLUGS WHEN THEY'RE SUPPOSE TO....THE ELECTRODE WEARS CAUSING THE GAP TO INCREASE..REQUIRING THE COIL TO PRODUCE MORE VOLTAGE..AND EVENTUALLY BURNING IT OUT ......JUST A THOUGHT





