Okay - I found one very informative thread on this when I searched archive, but I still have questions and don't want to bring that thread back, as it touches on TONS of other things I am not concerned with.

I have a worked over B18A head.

I want to make power to 7,500 RPM's.

From what I understand, B18B cams are a little better than B18A (correct me if I'm wrong)

The question: If I run B18B cams in this ported B18A head with a more free flowing tb and im on a forced induction application - will the cams continue to make power and torque to 7,500?

to put it in other terms - Provided the head can flow freely - are the cam's still only good to 6,500?

 

Nope, the b18b cams on b18a wont help or make enough power to hit 7,500 rpm unless u get crower cams, valve springs, and new high performance pistons.. and there u might get close to 7,500 rpm.. gud luck !!

 

Is this speaking from experience? What do "high performance" pistons have to do with cams making power to 7,500? I have to doubt your credibility - with crower cams, valve springs, and retainers you can pick how high you want to rev depending on what cams and springs you go with.

"and there u might get close to 7,500 rpm"

Please only offer feedback if you know what you are talking about - and I would suggest deleting your post so that someone else does not get mis-information from reading it.

 

Hes right in saying that you wont make power up to 7500 with stock b18a/b cams. The cams just dont make power that high. You would need a new cam to make good power up in that range. High compression pistons would help with making more power with aftermarket cams, but they arent necessary at all to make power that high. Look at ppl that lower their compression in a gsr or si, they make great power up top.

Honestly if you want to make power up top with an LS head you need to get your head ported/polished what you have done. Need cams/springs/retainers. As the LS springs and retainers will not do very well when revving that high. And the ls cams dont have a good enough profile to continue making power in the higher revs.

Also I do make power all the way up to 7500 rpms in my stock ls, but thats b/c of the size turbo i have makes more power up top than in mid range. I could make alot more with better cams, which is what im getting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95GSRTT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hes right in saying that you wont make power up to 7500 with stock b18a/b cams. The cams just dont make power that high. You would need a new cam to make good power up in that range. High compression pistons would help with making more power with aftermarket cams, but they arent necessary at all to make power that high. Look at ppl that lower their compression in a gsr or si, they make great power up top.

Honestly if you want to make power up top with an LS head you need to get your head ported/polished what you have done. Need cams/springs/retainers. As the LS springs and retainers will not do very well when revving that high. And the ls cams dont have a good enough profile to continue making power in the higher revs.

Also I do make power all the way up to 7500 rpms in my stock ls, but thats b/c of the size turbo i have makes more power up top than in mid range. I could make alot more with better cams, which is what im getting </TD></TR></TABLE>


Thanks for back up !!

 

So, with Forced Induction which I have - by way of 60-1 turbo - I should be able to continue making power to 7,500 from what you've stated.

However, the addition of a higher lift cam would add additional horsepower? Is this correct.

Sorry to jump your **** Stock_LS - I just don't trust posts that do not give information backing up what they are stating, and I went through your HT post history, and couldn't find anything that could lead me to think that you may have experience with this. No offense - just looking out for number 1.

Here is some more information on my set-up I should have given from the git-go.
I have "performance" valve springs, and retainers (JG) They are single valve springs, but seem to be much stiffer than the factory ones.

I suppose the question I should be asking given the information I have is:

Is it essential to run the same brand name Cam / Valve Spring, or could I go with a slightly higher lift cam and keep my current valve springs. I cannot find any information on JG's website about the amount of lift/dur the springs I have will allow. It simply states that they are good to 9k - I'm assuming with the stock cam (but why the hell would you take a stock cam to 9k)

I'm trying to avoid buying all new valve train as the head already has SS valves, comp valve springs, and titanium retainers - It is a JG Pro Series head.

Any info anyone might have would be greatly appreciated.

 

If you already have aftermarket springs and retainers you should be fine as far as putting in an aftermarket cam. You MAY not want to rev it higher than 8k though. You do not need after market valves 95% of the time. Its the springs that hold you back from revving higher.

Mainly b/c if the lift is too much on a cam it can make the spring compress too much, which in turn can bind.

You SHOULD be able to continue making power up top with the 60-1 turbo. But it wont be as much as it should with the stock cams. As your torque will be going down either way. And yes a higher lift cam will add additional power b/c it will allow more air into each cylinder. The reason you want higher lift and less duration is b/c too much overlap will keep the valves open allowing for boost to seep out.

Your JG head will be fine with an aftermarket cam like 402t or a crane cam np. Simply b/c it doesnt sound like you will be revving too high anyways. Also another problem with the ls block when revving high is the rods. They are not designed to rev that high.

 

Thanks for the info 95GSRTT

Who makes the 402t (sorry, I'm new to head work)

I plan on sending my bottom end to benson to have it sleeved (stock bore) and from there I am just going to go all out. . . my next research project will be finding out a good compression ratio for a car planning to run 25-30 psi (the goal is 500-600 whp)

 

crower makes the 402t cams. A sponsor on here i believe is selling them for under 400. I get my block back from benson tomorrow. You wont be disappointed with his work.

 

That's what I hear (about Benson) all good things - I'm looking forward to driving my car again. . . this time with a Benson sleeved block.

This summer my goal was to get into 12's, and as soon as I did, I tore down for next years goal - 10's.

I hope the valve springs I have will not bind. I don't know if this helps any, but when standing them next to my factory springs, they are about 3/4 of an inch taller, and are much harder to compress. The retainers on the springs look exactly like the stock retainers. . . . should I be able to see a difference between stock and aftermarket titanium retainers?

Perhaps you can answer this too. . .

I removed all of the internal parts from the JG head, and I am taking it to get hot tanked on thursday. . . when I reinstall everything, should I replace the valve guides, and seals? They have 30k miles on them.

Also - can valves be hot tanked? The ones in the head are CAKED w/ junk.

Thank you for reading - and helping a struggling honda boy out.

 

I dont know too much about the JG springs and retainers, but I would go by what they say and assume they can rev to 9k so you should be good.

You probably dont need to replace the guides or seals, but I would just so you know that the block is gonna be as new as possible. You could probably take out the valves and spray them down with break cleaner and clean them that way. But Im sure the valves could stand some kind of hot tanking if you wanted to spend that lil bit extra money.

 

Dude - Thanks a TON - I really appreciate your willingness to share knowledge with me.

Lol, and I have tried to contact JG (impossible to get ahold of) to find out the max lift for those springs, but no luck.

 

make sure you have the right springs man, seriously that is NOT the place to cheap out, get the specs on those springs, check the bind-rate

as far as the cams go, it's just basic camshaft theory, you will need higher lift and duration to shift your powerband upwards, the LS cams are good for about 6000rpms and you won't get much more out of them than that. i can't guess how the turbo wil affect things though,

 

I'd suggest replacing the seals. Valve seals are cheap, and doing it once everything is installed and running will be a PITA.

I wouldn't worry about the guides.

 

I'd say go with the crower valvetrain, and if its gonna be FI ive heard the 403's get better response than the 402T's

 

The current valve guides/seals/seats have 30k miles on them. . . should I just replace them all (guides/seats/seals)?

 

after 30k they're probably fine, but a complete gasket kit, including headgasket is what? like $250? it's your call

 

So there are gasket kits out there that include valve guides/seals/and seats?

I didn't know that a complete gasket kit would come w/ that stuff. I assumed they would be head gasket, and other external gaskets. . .

but just to clairfy - guides, seals and seats would come with that? or just seals

 

ya sorry about that, the gasket set wouldn't include the seats or valveguides, but it would include the vavle seals.

 

no problem - now I know

 

After reading through 90% of this thread....have any of the questions actually been answered?

I've gathered the fact that you want to make power up to 7500 rpm. That is a goal that is attainable. However, there are other goals that you need to meet in order to fulfill that one. It sounds as though you are going to turbo your engine. You need to set a wheel horsepower goal for yourself first. Then, once you know how many ponied you want to lay to the pavement, then you can start choosing components that are going to make that power where you want to in your powerband.

The 402T that was mentioned above is a cam made by Crower that is designed to work with turbo/supercharger/nitrous setups. There is more to just bolting in those cams though to make power. Adjustable cam gears, intake manifold, porting and polishing are also going to aid in not only how much power those cams help you make, but when.

As far as the head itself goes, with forced induction you can't go wrong with a mild port and a good polish job. You want all that air flowing smoothly through it into the combustion chamber. Some 1mm oversized valves may also be something you want to look at. Certain mods will depend on what you use the car for..daily driven vs. track/fun car.

One could go on and on all day about things to consider and why when building an engine, I hope you realize that it is not a simple or quick process. You seem like you're on the right track and have knowledge of what you want, so, best of luck to you!

 

lol, you didn't answer his question either!

he needs to know if the stock LS cams will make power up to 7500rpms, provided everything else is adequate(air-slow, fuel devlivery etc), and he has some big-*** turbo(i guess it would have to be big)

will the cams suffice?

i don't know much about turbo but my bet would be no, if you've ever looked at an LS dyno the torque is absolutely nose-diving after 6500, this is becasuse of many things not just the cams, but still i would if you plan on making power to 7500, but a cam that has bigger lift and duration and will shift your peak power upwards.

 

to be honest you have it backwards, instead of picking a peak RPM to make power to, just peak your power goal and build a set-up that will meet your goals.

the good thing about turbo is you can keep it low-revving, which is good for the LS which was never really meant to rev, i don't know why you would want to raise the redline on a FI engine, unless ya are going crazy and building a race car

 

Thank you 2chron4u! You have given me the best explanation so far - now I am to the point where I am trying to decide between crower 402t cams and 403's. . . 402t's are a turbo cam, but some people on here swear that the 403's when the overlap is dialed out will make more power. . . I started a thread on that topic but it isn't getting any responses.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=759139

i started that thread with a very similar topic and got some nice feedback