402T's
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From: Kansas City, MO
Re: 402T's (B18B1-turbo)
You will be just fine running them without a turbo for as long as you need. However, can I ask why you want them? Stock B18a/b cams are great for turbo. I would keep the stockers and save some money.
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From: San Diego, CA, U.S.ofA.
Re: 402T's (newgsrdriver)
well i do wanna rev higher, bout 8 k, and actually i still want the 402T's for that and im geting the valvetrain too, i got my question answered already tho 
Will you make something up for me please?
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From: SoCal
Re: 402T's (B18B1-turbo)
Your question has pretty much been answered but....
Why don't you look into the Crower 403 cams. Yes, I know they are not Crower "turbo" cams, but everyone running those + turbo have dynoed more than with the 402T cams. I think the price difference is neglible as well. Get the 403's
Yes, you can run the aftermarket cams without a turbo. With the 402T's and even the 403's, you don't even need to upgrade your valvetrain as long as you don't rev above your stock redline.
As someone said before, your weak link with a turbo setup will NOT be in your head, but in your block. Get the turbo first and do some tuning, and THEN worry about revving higher and upgrading your valvetrain.
I guarantee once you have that turbo on and running well, you won't even THINK about wanting to rev higher. It's scary enough reving to the stock limit. When I had turbo all set up and running, I didn't want to even rev up to the stock redline. First of all, at any rpm past 5K, I'd lose traction (this was all the way up to 3rd gear, WITH an LSD!). In 4th gear and 5th gear, it takes lots of heat to make it to redline and my EGT's got too high anyway to be running near redline too long.
And by then, any car you're racing.....you're ahead of by at least 5-10 cars.
Why don't you look into the Crower 403 cams. Yes, I know they are not Crower "turbo" cams, but everyone running those + turbo have dynoed more than with the 402T cams. I think the price difference is neglible as well. Get the 403's
Yes, you can run the aftermarket cams without a turbo. With the 402T's and even the 403's, you don't even need to upgrade your valvetrain as long as you don't rev above your stock redline.
As someone said before, your weak link with a turbo setup will NOT be in your head, but in your block. Get the turbo first and do some tuning, and THEN worry about revving higher and upgrading your valvetrain.
I guarantee once you have that turbo on and running well, you won't even THINK about wanting to rev higher. It's scary enough reving to the stock limit. When I had turbo all set up and running, I didn't want to even rev up to the stock redline. First of all, at any rpm past 5K, I'd lose traction (this was all the way up to 3rd gear, WITH an LSD!). In 4th gear and 5th gear, it takes lots of heat to make it to redline and my EGT's got too high anyway to be running near redline too long.
And by then, any car you're racing.....you're ahead of by at least 5-10 cars.
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: wichita, ks, 67226
Re: 402T's (B18B1-turbo)
so no internals or anything is needed to put a turbo on a 2g b18a? what about fuel mangmt. or titanium springs or anything. My motor has about 50k miles and i eventually want to go turbo, should i just save and buy a turbo and throw it in ?? Are all the mods ive already done just a waste of money??
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Will you make something up for me please?
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From: SoCal
Re: 402T's (91jteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91jteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so no internals or anything is needed to put a turbo on a 2g b18a? what about fuel mangmt. or titanium springs or anything. My motor has about 50k miles and i eventually want to go turbo, should i just save and buy a turbo and throw it in ?? Are all the mods ive already done just a waste of money??</TD></TR></TABLE>
You might wanna search in the Forced Induction about this, it's a very general question. But since I'm bored.....I'll answer. Hehe.
If you want to, you can just slap a turbo kit on a stock B18A. You just can't boost too much. I'd say around 8-10psi if you're tuning is good. Fuel/engine management is something you really SHOULD get first....well after the initial turbo. If you're tuning is bad, you will blow up your motor with only 1psi.
After that, your only weak link in your motor will be your block. Your pistons and rods, etc. The stock ones aren't suited to handle the extra load/heat that the turbo will generate. That's why most people use forged pistons/rods.
The titanium springs/retainers you're speaking of is in the head. The stock head can take A LOT of power. Upgraded head parts basically only let you rev higher. You can have the best valves, springs, etc, but if you're EGT's get too hot, everything will melt.
Everything I said was very general.....but I hoped I helped. Search is your friend.
EDIT: Sorry I didn't answer all of your post. 50K miles is nothing. And what "mods" did you do so far that is considered a "waste"? Getting a cold air intake, header, etc would be a waste if you want to go turbo.
You might wanna search in the Forced Induction about this, it's a very general question. But since I'm bored.....I'll answer. Hehe.
If you want to, you can just slap a turbo kit on a stock B18A. You just can't boost too much. I'd say around 8-10psi if you're tuning is good. Fuel/engine management is something you really SHOULD get first....well after the initial turbo. If you're tuning is bad, you will blow up your motor with only 1psi.
After that, your only weak link in your motor will be your block. Your pistons and rods, etc. The stock ones aren't suited to handle the extra load/heat that the turbo will generate. That's why most people use forged pistons/rods.
The titanium springs/retainers you're speaking of is in the head. The stock head can take A LOT of power. Upgraded head parts basically only let you rev higher. You can have the best valves, springs, etc, but if you're EGT's get too hot, everything will melt.
Everything I said was very general.....but I hoped I helped. Search is your friend.
EDIT: Sorry I didn't answer all of your post. 50K miles is nothing. And what "mods" did you do so far that is considered a "waste"? Getting a cold air intake, header, etc would be a waste if you want to go turbo.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: San Diego, CA, U.S.ofA.
Re: 402T's (91jteg)
hey thanks a lot shamoo, ive heard lotsa diff thinks bout 402's 403's, i prob will get the 403's now, and for the block im gonna be rnnin stock internals maybe 7 or 8 psi is what im thinkin when i up the psi ill get arp studs n rod bolts n je pistons, well yea u know n fuel management, i jess gotta do it in the right stages, i kmight be goin backwards with my plans i think 
Will you make something up for me please?
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From: SoCal
Re: 402T's (B18B1-turbo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18B1-turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey thanks a lot shamoo, ive heard lotsa diff thinks bout 402's 403's, i prob will get the 403's now, and for the block im gonna be rnnin stock internals maybe 7 or 8 psi is what im thinkin when i up the psi ill get arp studs n rod bolts n je pistons, well yea u know n fuel management, i jess gotta do it in the right stages, i kmight be goin backwards with my plans i think </TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's my suggestion. If you wanna keep the stock internals (block) for now, go for it. But I highly recommend at least getting engine management. There's a lot out there....Hondata, AEM, Haltec, Motec, etc. With the right tuning, you can make that stock block boost 10psi (or even more) VERY reliably......I'm serious.
Without tuning, you're probably gonna run a FMU and V-AFC or something ghetto like that. Hehe. Remember, they are fine for fuel, but NOT for timing. Our Hondas aren't made to boost, so when you rev higher and get to higher loads, our ECU's have our timing up about 40-50 degrees....WAAAAAAY too much under boost. It SHOULD be about 20-25 or so degrees. That is why the EGT temperatures get so hot.
Aftermarket fuel/engine management computers actually have timing tables that incorporate boost into the equation.
Anyway, you probably know most of this already. I was just bored and sitting here so I thought I'd ramble a little.
So bottom line.....do whatever you want with your internals and whatnot, keep em stock, go all out, but whatever you do, GET ENGINE MANAGEMENT FIRST, y0!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Here's my suggestion. If you wanna keep the stock internals (block) for now, go for it. But I highly recommend at least getting engine management. There's a lot out there....Hondata, AEM, Haltec, Motec, etc. With the right tuning, you can make that stock block boost 10psi (or even more) VERY reliably......I'm serious.
Without tuning, you're probably gonna run a FMU and V-AFC or something ghetto like that. Hehe. Remember, they are fine for fuel, but NOT for timing. Our Hondas aren't made to boost, so when you rev higher and get to higher loads, our ECU's have our timing up about 40-50 degrees....WAAAAAAY too much under boost. It SHOULD be about 20-25 or so degrees. That is why the EGT temperatures get so hot.
Aftermarket fuel/engine management computers actually have timing tables that incorporate boost into the equation.
Anyway, you probably know most of this already. I was just bored and sitting here so I thought I'd ramble a little.
So bottom line.....do whatever you want with your internals and whatnot, keep em stock, go all out, but whatever you do, GET ENGINE MANAGEMENT FIRST, y0!
Will you make something up for me please?
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: SoCal
Re: 402T's (xeugep)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xeugep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is egt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exhaust Gas Temperature [gauge]. It measures the temperature of the exhaust gases coming right from the head. Basically, too hot and you're running lean. Too cool, and you're running rich.
There is slightly more to it than that, but that's the basic idea. Once you get too hot, you can even melt your valves.
A very good tool to have if you're running a turbo. It has saved me many times during my troubleshooting days.
Exhaust Gas Temperature [gauge]. It measures the temperature of the exhaust gases coming right from the head. Basically, too hot and you're running lean. Too cool, and you're running rich.
There is slightly more to it than that, but that's the basic idea. Once you get too hot, you can even melt your valves.
A very good tool to have if you're running a turbo. It has saved me many times during my troubleshooting days.
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From: Jasper, AL, USA
Re: 402T's (xeugep)
I initially had 403's in my teg at the transition from NA to turbo. There is a lot of duration on those cams and its difficult to tune. ( Impossible without cam gears) I now have 402T's and I think they are best. Loads of lift but not as much duration, just what a turbo needs.
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: BFE, TX, USA
Re: 402T's (yellaboi)
Do you have dyno's to compare these cams so we can see the difference. It's pretty commonly known that you don't want a massive amount of duration w/boost, but you can always dial out the overlap on the 403's and still make more than the 402T's.
Will you make something up for me please?
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From: SoCal
Re: 402T's (Havokmkr)
I also ran Crower 402T's in my Integra. But I put them in before the turbo because my friend gave them to me for a very cheap price.
So, in that case I couldn't tell the difference between stock cams vs. 402T's with the turbo.
In any case, I have seen numerous dyno graphs AND personal tesimonials that say the 403's made more power than the 402T's. My friend had both as well and said that once they were tuned, the 403's made significantly more power.
So, in that case I couldn't tell the difference between stock cams vs. 402T's with the turbo.
In any case, I have seen numerous dyno graphs AND personal tesimonials that say the 403's made more power than the 402T's. My friend had both as well and said that once they were tuned, the 403's made significantly more power.
Will you make something up for me please?
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: SoCal
Re: 402T's (xeugep)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xeugep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you still have the cam card for the 62402t cams? i have mine for the 62403 cams. i would just like to compare the overlap issues with that cam. scan it if you can</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, I don't have it. The car has been sold a long time ago. I think it's on the Crower web site. Lemme check.
EDIT: Yup, look here: http://www.crower.com/cat/impo...shtml
It's under "Crower Acura B18A and B18B DOHC Camshafts (Non VTEC)" near the middle of the page.
Sorry, I don't have it. The car has been sold a long time ago. I think it's on the Crower web site. Lemme check.
EDIT: Yup, look here: http://www.crower.com/cat/impo...shtml
It's under "Crower Acura B18A and B18B DOHC Camshafts (Non VTEC)" near the middle of the page.
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From: Jasper, AL, USA
Re: 402T's (Havokmkr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Havokmkr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have dyno's to compare these cams so we can see the difference. It's pretty commonly known that you don't want a massive amount of duration w/boost, but you can always dial out the overlap on the 403's and still make more than the 402T's.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no when I had the 403 on there it was just basic drag turbo kit. w/6psi. I never dynoed it util I made some substantial upgrades. So not comparable dynos of the cams.
I do however still have the 403's I would like to experiment.
no when I had the 403 on there it was just basic drag turbo kit. w/6psi. I never dynoed it util I made some substantial upgrades. So not comparable dynos of the cams.
I do however still have the 403's I would like to experiment.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Charlotte, NC, USA
Re: 402T's (shamoo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shamoo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also ran Crower 402T's in my Integra. But I put them in before the turbo because my friend gave them to me for a very cheap price.
So, in that case I couldn't tell the difference between stock cams vs. 402T's with the turbo.
In any case, I have seen numerous dyno graphs AND personal tesimonials that say the 403's made more power than the 402T's. My friend had both as well and said that once they were tuned, the 403's made significantly more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you comment on the 402T's in a non-boosted motor? How was low end? Did they sound funny at idle or at WOT? I'm just curious, those cams have some mega lift to em...
So, in that case I couldn't tell the difference between stock cams vs. 402T's with the turbo.
In any case, I have seen numerous dyno graphs AND personal tesimonials that say the 403's made more power than the 402T's. My friend had both as well and said that once they were tuned, the 403's made significantly more power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can you comment on the 402T's in a non-boosted motor? How was low end? Did they sound funny at idle or at WOT? I'm just curious, those cams have some mega lift to em...
Re: 402T's (91jteg)
i ran crower 62402s on my turbo'd LS. pulled hella strong up to and beyond redline. i never got a chance to dyno it after putting on the cams cause my car was stolen 2 weeks afterwards!!(******* theives!!) witht he 62402s you won't need to upgrade your valvetrain but with the 62402Ts you will.
Part # Description Advertised Duration Duration @ .050" Gross Lift w/1.75
Stock Specs from B18B 220 / 222 185 / 187 .395 / .380
62401 Stock replacement, automatic, mild turbo. Idle to 7000+. 224 / 226 188 / 190 .395 / .380
62402 Stage 1- Street use and agressive Turbo or Nitrous. Idle to 7500 rpm. (up to 12 hp). 233 / 245 194 / 197 .414 / .399
62402T Stage 2 - Turbo/Super Charger specially designed specifically for forced induction applications. Features short duration, high lift for added cylinder pressure and good bottom end power. Requires kit 84162. 235 / 235 190 / 190 .469 / .469
62403 Stage 2 - Street/Strip package. MOST POPULAR profile. Requires 84162 kit. 1000 to 8000+ rpm (15-18 hp). 243 / 246 211 / 210 .423 / .409
62404 Stage 3 - 3/4 Race, recommended for mostly strip. Requires 84162 kit and ECU mod. 1100 to 8200+ rpm, lope at idle. Springs required. (18-21 hp). 249 / 251 216 / 218 .446 / .432
62405A Stage 3 - Full race, all-out, all-motor drag profile. Not for the inexperienced tuner. Requires 84162 kit. 1200 to 8500+ rpm. 280 / 274 230 / 222 .476 / .467
62405 Stage 3 - Full race. Cylinder head, rocker and valve train modifications and machine work required. Titanium valves recommended. 1300-9000+ rpm. (22+ hp) 287 / 287 252 / 252 .502 / .502
405's will not work on on a turbo. I knew a guy that had them.....for a week then he pull them out and got some 403's. You can't really use them on the street at all. THEY ARE FOR RACE ONLY.
Part # Description Advertised Duration Duration @ .050" Gross Lift w/1.75
Stock Specs from B18B 220 / 222 185 / 187 .395 / .380
62401 Stock replacement, automatic, mild turbo. Idle to 7000+. 224 / 226 188 / 190 .395 / .380
62402 Stage 1- Street use and agressive Turbo or Nitrous. Idle to 7500 rpm. (up to 12 hp). 233 / 245 194 / 197 .414 / .399
62402T Stage 2 - Turbo/Super Charger specially designed specifically for forced induction applications. Features short duration, high lift for added cylinder pressure and good bottom end power. Requires kit 84162. 235 / 235 190 / 190 .469 / .469
62403 Stage 2 - Street/Strip package. MOST POPULAR profile. Requires 84162 kit. 1000 to 8000+ rpm (15-18 hp). 243 / 246 211 / 210 .423 / .409
62404 Stage 3 - 3/4 Race, recommended for mostly strip. Requires 84162 kit and ECU mod. 1100 to 8200+ rpm, lope at idle. Springs required. (18-21 hp). 249 / 251 216 / 218 .446 / .432
62405A Stage 3 - Full race, all-out, all-motor drag profile. Not for the inexperienced tuner. Requires 84162 kit. 1200 to 8500+ rpm. 280 / 274 230 / 222 .476 / .467
62405 Stage 3 - Full race. Cylinder head, rocker and valve train modifications and machine work required. Titanium valves recommended. 1300-9000+ rpm. (22+ hp) 287 / 287 252 / 252 .502 / .502
405's will not work on on a turbo. I knew a guy that had them.....for a week then he pull them out and got some 403's. You can't really use them on the street at all. THEY ARE FOR RACE ONLY.
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