1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,909
Likes: 0
1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers
Hello everyone. Another installation post. Today #122 got a new Blinged out steering wheel and some new suspension.
**If your unsure about the removal and installation processes of the factory airbag and steering wheel, please seek professional assistance.**
STEP ONE: Make sure that your car is parked with the wheels as straight as you can get them. Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery.
STEP TWO: Start by removing the lower cover of the steering wheel. This cover is held in place by one phillips #2 screw. After remove this cover you will see a couple wires and a yellow wiring harness. This yellow harness is what supplies the airbag with power when it needs to blow. Take the yellow harness out of it's clip-in supports and disconnect the two sides of the wiring harness from one another. This will take a bit of fenness.
STEP THREE: Remove the cover on the right side of the steering wheel. Use something thin and wide to pry it off. It is held in place with one center clip. After you remove the cover it will reveal a few more screws that need to be removed.
First take out the two phillps screws and remove that black piece. Next, the star nut needs to be removed. This star nut holds the right side of the airbag in place.
STEP FOUR: On the left side of the steering wheel is a small compartment which hides the left side star nut. Pry the cover off with a flat head, it should come off pretty easy. Remove the star nut and pull the airbag off of the steering wheel.
See that opening in the white plastic on the right side of the wheel? You will need to disconnect the horn harness off the upper part of the steering wheel (small black clip infront of red wire in picture) and push these through the hole.
STEP FIVE: Remove the nut that holds the steering wheel in place. There is only one. If I recall...it was a 17mm and takes a bit of muscle to get it off. You will have to use a decent size breaker bar in one hand and hold the steering wheel with the other hand and turn opposite directions to break it loose.
Once you break the nut loose, remove it all the way and the steering wheel is now ready for removal.
STEP SIX: Each car is different, fortunately once I got the nut off I pulled very easily and my steering wheel slid right off. Some people will need to rock it back and fourth...some will need a steering wheel puller. Once the steering wheel is off it should look like the next picture. If your clever enough to save the next piece with out breaking it...you could get about $400.00 for it on eBay. Its the plastic piece with the two nipples sticking out of it and it has a white sticker on it.
Once you get the costly little plastic bit off, you will need to disconnect the two little wiring harnesses off the back of it. One is for the horn, the other two (grey wires) are for the airbag. You will need to get a little two ohm resister at radio shack to keep the SRS light from coming on or simply take the bulb out of the dash.
STEP SIX: Install the hub making sure you get all the wiring where it needs to go, and make sure you line the 'top' mark with what you think is the top on the splines. I found after driving the car that I will need to move counter clock wise one spline to get the wheel level. Once the hub is slid all the way on, reinstall the nut and torque down to manufactuer specs. Slip the black housing over the hub and you are now ready to mount the steering wheel.
STEP SEVEN: Mounting the steering wheel to the hub is pretty easy. Simply install the metal ring that came with the hub making sure that the center lip is facing out. This will hold the horn button in place. While holding this ring in place, but the wheel over the ring and line up all the wholes. Finger thread the allen screws and tighten them down with the supplied allen wrench. I went in an order scimilar to installing a tire. That seemed to mount it nice and even because there was about a millimeter of play.
STEP EIGHT: Install the horn wire to the supplied horn and pop it into place. It will not look like it's going to fit, but it will. You may get hung up on the tiny copper wire located on the back side of the horn button which may get hung up on the lip of the steering wheel hub. I used a very small flat head screw driver making sure not to scratch the black anodized finish of the steering wheel. It took minimal pressure and popped into place. You will be able to turn the horn button to make it level but it is ver firm in it's place.
STEP NINE: Go flex in the mirror and pound a cold one.
**If you are unsure about the proper way to remove and install suspension, please take your car to a mechanic.**
I'm not going to go into to much detail about the removal and installation process. It would be too long of a post. It takes patience, a buddy, and just a hand full of tools. I always get hung up on the stock suspension so the full removal and install took me an hour and a half
Today I installed the Omniman Type R Sport Version Coilovers. The spring rates are 12kg front and 10kg rear. They have adjustable lower perches which I find to be a pretty nice feature. You can lower or raise the car by adusting these. I lowered the carRRR about an inch all around. Anymore than that, and I feel I'm ricing it up and it's not needed anyways.
I measured from the top of the pillow mount to the mounting point where the stock fronts slide into the suspension fork....where that little tab is located to line the fork up, to the suspension. From that measurement, I subtracted two inches off the Omniman front and adjusted it accordingly.
Though it was two inches it dropped the car only an inch. (Remeber the Omniman springs are significantly stronger than stock so there is minimal spring sag) I had to take the front wheel off a couple times before I got it where I wanted it.
When I did the rears which are a totally different length, all I did was lay the stock front and rear next to each other lining up the pillow ball mounts. Once I got it lined up exactly, I measured the distance from the mounting hole on the lower part of the rear shock to the little lip on the front shock where the stock suspension arm rests against. 2 3/4" was the length. I took the Omniman rear and laid it next to the Omniman front, lining up the pillow mounts and adjusted the rear according to that measurement of 2 3/4". Once the rear was installed, I put the wheels back on and removed the jack from underneath and the level of the car was straight across the board. And with a 1" drop.
Driving impression: As some of you know, I had some buddy clubs on my Type R for a short period of time. They too were 12kg front and 10kg rear. However, the Buddy Clubs were very harsh to drive around on. There were a couple bumps that I hit where I became airborn No ******* joke! Unless you are on very smooth pavement, I wouldn't recommend these.
The Omnimans, dispite their high spring rates ride exceptionally well. To get to my house I have to drive on a highway that was made in sections out of concrete followed by some high speed twisties. On the undulated surface they performed quite well with just a slightly harsher ride over stock. In the twisties, the car had minimal roll and I was able to take corners 10mph faster than usual. The posted speed is 50mph through these turns. Normally I take them at 60mph, but tonight I was able to do them at 70mph! (Please note, I also live out in the sticks in red neck country where there is hardly anyone on these roads).
On some rolling undulations I found that they were a tad bouncy, so I will have to refine the settings to get rid of this. All in all I give the Omnimans
. If your buying Buddy Clubs, or Neu Speeds (which I've owned) or Tiens.... or whatever, I would strongly consider a pair of the Omnimans. A half to two thirds the price of the other guys, but just as good if not better.
**If your unsure about the removal and installation processes of the factory airbag and steering wheel, please seek professional assistance.**
STEP ONE: Make sure that your car is parked with the wheels as straight as you can get them. Remove the negative battery terminal from the battery.
STEP TWO: Start by removing the lower cover of the steering wheel. This cover is held in place by one phillips #2 screw. After remove this cover you will see a couple wires and a yellow wiring harness. This yellow harness is what supplies the airbag with power when it needs to blow. Take the yellow harness out of it's clip-in supports and disconnect the two sides of the wiring harness from one another. This will take a bit of fenness.
STEP THREE: Remove the cover on the right side of the steering wheel. Use something thin and wide to pry it off. It is held in place with one center clip. After you remove the cover it will reveal a few more screws that need to be removed.
First take out the two phillps screws and remove that black piece. Next, the star nut needs to be removed. This star nut holds the right side of the airbag in place.
STEP FOUR: On the left side of the steering wheel is a small compartment which hides the left side star nut. Pry the cover off with a flat head, it should come off pretty easy. Remove the star nut and pull the airbag off of the steering wheel.
See that opening in the white plastic on the right side of the wheel? You will need to disconnect the horn harness off the upper part of the steering wheel (small black clip infront of red wire in picture) and push these through the hole.
STEP FIVE: Remove the nut that holds the steering wheel in place. There is only one. If I recall...it was a 17mm and takes a bit of muscle to get it off. You will have to use a decent size breaker bar in one hand and hold the steering wheel with the other hand and turn opposite directions to break it loose.
Once you break the nut loose, remove it all the way and the steering wheel is now ready for removal.
STEP SIX: Each car is different, fortunately once I got the nut off I pulled very easily and my steering wheel slid right off. Some people will need to rock it back and fourth...some will need a steering wheel puller. Once the steering wheel is off it should look like the next picture. If your clever enough to save the next piece with out breaking it...you could get about $400.00 for it on eBay. Its the plastic piece with the two nipples sticking out of it and it has a white sticker on it.
Once you get the costly little plastic bit off, you will need to disconnect the two little wiring harnesses off the back of it. One is for the horn, the other two (grey wires) are for the airbag. You will need to get a little two ohm resister at radio shack to keep the SRS light from coming on or simply take the bulb out of the dash.
STEP SIX: Install the hub making sure you get all the wiring where it needs to go, and make sure you line the 'top' mark with what you think is the top on the splines. I found after driving the car that I will need to move counter clock wise one spline to get the wheel level. Once the hub is slid all the way on, reinstall the nut and torque down to manufactuer specs. Slip the black housing over the hub and you are now ready to mount the steering wheel.
STEP SEVEN: Mounting the steering wheel to the hub is pretty easy. Simply install the metal ring that came with the hub making sure that the center lip is facing out. This will hold the horn button in place. While holding this ring in place, but the wheel over the ring and line up all the wholes. Finger thread the allen screws and tighten them down with the supplied allen wrench. I went in an order scimilar to installing a tire. That seemed to mount it nice and even because there was about a millimeter of play.
STEP EIGHT: Install the horn wire to the supplied horn and pop it into place. It will not look like it's going to fit, but it will. You may get hung up on the tiny copper wire located on the back side of the horn button which may get hung up on the lip of the steering wheel hub. I used a very small flat head screw driver making sure not to scratch the black anodized finish of the steering wheel. It took minimal pressure and popped into place. You will be able to turn the horn button to make it level but it is ver firm in it's place.
STEP NINE: Go flex in the mirror and pound a cold one.
**If you are unsure about the proper way to remove and install suspension, please take your car to a mechanic.**
I'm not going to go into to much detail about the removal and installation process. It would be too long of a post. It takes patience, a buddy, and just a hand full of tools. I always get hung up on the stock suspension so the full removal and install took me an hour and a half
Today I installed the Omniman Type R Sport Version Coilovers. The spring rates are 12kg front and 10kg rear. They have adjustable lower perches which I find to be a pretty nice feature. You can lower or raise the car by adusting these. I lowered the carRRR about an inch all around. Anymore than that, and I feel I'm ricing it up and it's not needed anyways.
I measured from the top of the pillow mount to the mounting point where the stock fronts slide into the suspension fork....where that little tab is located to line the fork up, to the suspension. From that measurement, I subtracted two inches off the Omniman front and adjusted it accordingly.
Though it was two inches it dropped the car only an inch. (Remeber the Omniman springs are significantly stronger than stock so there is minimal spring sag) I had to take the front wheel off a couple times before I got it where I wanted it.
When I did the rears which are a totally different length, all I did was lay the stock front and rear next to each other lining up the pillow ball mounts. Once I got it lined up exactly, I measured the distance from the mounting hole on the lower part of the rear shock to the little lip on the front shock where the stock suspension arm rests against. 2 3/4" was the length. I took the Omniman rear and laid it next to the Omniman front, lining up the pillow mounts and adjusted the rear according to that measurement of 2 3/4". Once the rear was installed, I put the wheels back on and removed the jack from underneath and the level of the car was straight across the board. And with a 1" drop.
Driving impression: As some of you know, I had some buddy clubs on my Type R for a short period of time. They too were 12kg front and 10kg rear. However, the Buddy Clubs were very harsh to drive around on. There were a couple bumps that I hit where I became airborn
No ******* joke! Unless you are on very smooth pavement, I wouldn't recommend these.The Omnimans, dispite their high spring rates ride exceptionally well. To get to my house I have to drive on a highway that was made in sections out of concrete followed by some high speed twisties. On the undulated surface they performed quite well with just a slightly harsher ride over stock. In the twisties, the car had minimal roll and I was able to take corners 10mph faster than usual. The posted speed is 50mph through these turns. Normally I take them at 60mph, but tonight I was able to do them at 70mph! (Please note, I also live out in the sticks in red neck country where there is hardly anyone on these roads).
On some rolling undulations I found that they were a tad bouncy, so I will have to refine the settings to get rid of this. All in all I give the Omnimans
. If your buying Buddy Clubs, or Neu Speeds (which I've owned) or Tiens.... or whatever, I would strongly consider a pair of the Omnimans. A half to two thirds the price of the other guys, but just as good if not better.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: New Port Nowhere, Florida, USA
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (eg_type_r93)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg_type_r93 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got the wheel and love it </TD></TR></TABLE>
+1
</TD></TR></TABLE>+1
Trial User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,102
Likes: 0
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (NXSpoon)
On some rolling undulations I found that they were a tad bouncy, so I will have to refine the settings to get rid of this
what does that mean???
Trending Topics
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,244
Likes: 0
From: OLDSKOOL OF HARD KNOCKS
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (Rare x3)
hey brandon, you have great patience/service man. it takes a lot of time and patience to actually record your steps and post them up. its a great reference for those later on tackling the same project
nice steering wheel
nice steering wheel
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 0
From: shibby, IL, U.S.A.
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (MAD ITR 55)
need more info on the horn.. installed mine two nights ago with the signal quick release..but i'm having problems connecting the horn. So that one wire is for the horn how about the rest of the wire under the dash any pics of it by any chance especially the horn wire... gonna take mine apart again so i can re check everything
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1
From: ainrofilac, Anti Stickers
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (FatBoy4door2)
what do you do for a living?
just like someone else has mentioned can you please go into more depth about installing the horn. After the SRS reel is taken off where do you tap the horn wire from? did you use a honda shoe horn?
just like someone else has mentioned can you please go into more depth about installing the horn. After the SRS reel is taken off where do you tap the horn wire from? did you use a honda shoe horn?
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (sim shadeee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sim shadeee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you do for a living?
just like someone else has mentioned can you please go into more depth about installing the horn. After the SRS reel is taken off where do you tap the horn wire from? did you use a honda shoe horn?</TD></TR></TABLE>
he sells some of the best cocaine this side of the mississippi i can tell you that much
just like someone else has mentioned can you please go into more depth about installing the horn. After the SRS reel is taken off where do you tap the horn wire from? did you use a honda shoe horn?</TD></TR></TABLE>
he sells some of the best cocaine this side of the mississippi i can tell you that much
too old for school
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,571
Likes: 1
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (Haleiwa-Brando)
FYI... your step three.. those are not phillips screws. They are T-30 torx screws. You may have been able to remove them with a phillips head screwdriver but in most instances they will strip. Just go to your local hardware store and pick up some t-30 torx bits.
Carefull with that spoon horn button... unfortunately its only a vynil sticker tacked on top of a momo horn buttom and the "/////// Spoon Sports \\\\\\\" part rubs off very easily. I was kind of disapointed about the low quality of the horn button.
To ensure I didn't f*ck up the horn button I replaced it with a honda horn button.
You and and I have almost the exact setup. I also have the omnipower sport coilovers but I drive an ek hatch.
Carefull with that spoon horn button... unfortunately its only a vynil sticker tacked on top of a momo horn buttom and the "/////// Spoon Sports \\\\\\\" part rubs off very easily.
I was kind of disapointed about the low quality of the horn button.To ensure I didn't f*ck up the horn button I replaced it with a honda horn button.
You and and I have almost the exact setup. I also have the omnipower sport coilovers but I drive an ek hatch.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 30,826
Likes: 0
From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: 1997 ITR#122 Gets Spoon Steering Wheel and OmniMan Coilovers (Haleiwa-Brando)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Next, the star nut needs to be removed. This star nut holds the right side of the airbag in place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine had loctite on them, I had to get a torx bit that fit on a 3/8" drive socket wrench, would not come out with a torx screwdriver.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not going to go into to much detail about the removal and installation process. It would be too long of a post. </TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=891136
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had some buddy clubs on my Type R for a short period of time. They too were 12kg front and 10kg rear. However, the Buddy Clubs were very harsh to drive around on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was the spring preload all jacked up on them? I've driven/riden on them in a ITR and I thought they were very well controlled, very streetable.
Mine had loctite on them, I had to get a torx bit that fit on a 3/8" drive socket wrench, would not come out with a torx screwdriver.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not going to go into to much detail about the removal and installation process. It would be too long of a post. </TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=891136
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had some buddy clubs on my Type R for a short period of time. They too were 12kg front and 10kg rear. However, the Buddy Clubs were very harsh to drive around on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was the spring preload all jacked up on them? I've driven/riden on them in a ITR and I thought they were very well controlled, very streetable.