Does the stock headunit have pre-outs?
No the stock headunit on either the base nor the type s do. You would need to buy a Hi-to-Low converter and tap the signal from either the rear speakers (if base), or the subwoofer connections for the type-s. But IMO, he would notice a HUGE difference if he just saved up a bit more money and purchases an aftermarket headunit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlaqK20 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But IMO, he would notice a HUGE difference if he just saved up a bit more money and purchases an aftermarket headunit.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i would agree... IMO the stock head unit is ***... the highs drown out at the highest volume. Maybe i'm just picky cause i'm a DJ
(shrugging shoulders)...
Is this just in the EP3 head unit or is it also in the RSX??
not trying to hijack the post guys
i would agree... IMO the stock head unit is ***... the highs drown out at the highest volume. Maybe i'm just picky cause i'm a DJ
(shrugging shoulders)... Is this just in the EP3 head unit or is it also in the RSX??
not trying to hijack the post guys
Actually there are a lot of newer setups that center around OEM head units mostly because now they have so many functions built into them. For example, the head unit in an Escalade contains something you need for the OnStar to work properly, so people have learned to make better line output converters.
http://www.davidnavone.com/index.htm
http://www.davidnavone.com/index.htm
the typeS's output from the headunit is at the lower level. i think it's called line level? i only know cause I spliced in RCA plugs into the harness that goes into the amp. everything's just fine.
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"and he wants me to install his system..."
heh, then you should worry about having a pre-out on the new headunit if you're installing a "system" j/k Someone once told me about installing a system in their car... it consisted of a headunit. A "system" is different things to different people...
Yeah, the factory bose system is different, you have to take into effect the amps... You can rate it on a voltage scale range, line level is like 2-4v. speaker level is like 20-30v... You can't exactly test the voltage, but on the S-type, pretty sure you can tap in and get a line-level like the person said before.
The speaker-level to line-level converter's I've been familiar with are just a simple resistor... if you know anything about crossovers, you'll realize this isn't the ideal way to do it.
Any similarly priced aftermarket product is going to be 100x better.
The factory tweeters are like 3/4" POS IMO... and it takes less energy at higher volumes to make 10,000hz (treble) than it does 100hz (bass)... So when you ramp up the volume, the stock woofers can't keep up.
Are you just trying to add a subwoofer? (that's what it sounds like) Just tap off the sub and adjust the gains on your sub amp. If you're getting alternator whine, Get a DC-DC 1 to 1 transformer which can help isolate the noise. If that doesn't work you'll have to start doing some gorunding extras since the bose amp and your new aftermarket amp are going to be fighting for common ground... and engine whine ensues.
If I were just going to add a sub and sub-amp... I would solder on some RCAs to the bose sub and adjust the gains from there. there's only one ground and one signal I assume, but could be wrong... that's where to start.
heh, then you should worry about having a pre-out on the new headunit if you're installing a "system" j/k Someone once told me about installing a system in their car... it consisted of a headunit. A "system" is different things to different people...
Yeah, the factory bose system is different, you have to take into effect the amps... You can rate it on a voltage scale range, line level is like 2-4v. speaker level is like 20-30v... You can't exactly test the voltage, but on the S-type, pretty sure you can tap in and get a line-level like the person said before.
The speaker-level to line-level converter's I've been familiar with are just a simple resistor... if you know anything about crossovers, you'll realize this isn't the ideal way to do it.
Any similarly priced aftermarket product is going to be 100x better.
The factory tweeters are like 3/4" POS IMO... and it takes less energy at higher volumes to make 10,000hz (treble) than it does 100hz (bass)... So when you ramp up the volume, the stock woofers can't keep up.
Are you just trying to add a subwoofer? (that's what it sounds like) Just tap off the sub and adjust the gains on your sub amp. If you're getting alternator whine, Get a DC-DC 1 to 1 transformer which can help isolate the noise. If that doesn't work you'll have to start doing some gorunding extras since the bose amp and your new aftermarket amp are going to be fighting for common ground... and engine whine ensues.
If I were just going to add a sub and sub-amp... I would solder on some RCAs to the bose sub and adjust the gains from there. there's only one ground and one signal I assume, but could be wrong... that's where to start.
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