Hole in gas tank problem :(
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 53
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From: Portland, OR, USA
Hole in gas tank problem :(
Well I filled up my 88crx for the first time today and to my suprise gas dripped out after it was filled. So I looked under the car immediatly and saw gas hitting the ground coming off my exhaust... great. Well It appears to leak from the tank only when I put more than 10 bucks in it, so I will not do that anymore. But If anyone has any suggestions as to what they think I should do that would be nice.
I found a gas tank on eBay for 125 shipped... how hard is it to replace this? I have done things before like header, cam gear, t-belt but nothing this in depth. What does this involve for a strait replacement? Or should I try to get this one fixed at a local shop? Thanks for ANY input.
I found a gas tank on eBay for 125 shipped... how hard is it to replace this? I have done things before like header, cam gear, t-belt but nothing this in depth. What does this involve for a strait replacement? Or should I try to get this one fixed at a local shop? Thanks for ANY input.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: holland, mi, USA
Re: (CRX+MaAN)
here you go man....here's a write up for you
Dropping your Fuel Tank Starting Notes
Dropping the fuel tank is a grungy, thankless task. But once you've done this, you'll know you can handle most absolutely disgusting jobs without too much of a hassle - and there's none that I've performed that were worse than dropping the fuel tank. Get ready to get high off gas fumes.
Parts You'll Need
A very large container to hold the excess gas (it's best to attempt this with an empty, or near-empty, gas tank as you'll need to drain it before dropping it), a socket set, a wrench set, a jack, two jackstands, a 2X4 chunk of wood.
Preparation: Part I
If you can, by all means drive your car until your gas tank is empty. Never, ever attempt this at night, or on a hot day... basically, don't do it anytime that you could reasonably expect a heat source, a spark, or anything of that sort to be around. Make sure your battery's unplugged before you first begin this procedure, to prevent any electrical discharges and large explosions. This is a dangerous procedure, no doubt about it. Alright, now that the disclaimers are out of the way, let's begin. First, pop your hood and use that socket set to unplug your negative battery cable. It might be a good idea to also try to start the car with the battery unplugged, to make sure any residual charges have been evacuated. Now you need to depressurize the fuel system. This is accomplished by looking underneath the hood at the fuel filter - it's the large black-or-bronze container that's mounted on the firewall. It'll have a -6AN or so tube running into the fuel rail, and it's got another -6AN or so tube running into the firewall. The fuel rail itself has another -6AN tube or so running out of the fuel pressure regulator at the opposite end of the fuel rail and back into the firewall - that's the fuel return line. Anyway, you need to take a look at the fuel filter. On the top of it, you can see two sets of bolts. One of these has another bolt threaded into the top of it. This is the fuel pressure release valve. Hold the large banjo bolt on the bottom steady, and loosen off the top smaller release valve bolt. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you'll see the pressure dip to zero. Tighten it back up and you're ready to jack up your car.
Preparation: Part II
OK, we may now begin. Jack up the rear of the car and support it firmly with jackstands. Now, take your very large container and place it underneath the fuel tank at the rear of the vehicle. You'll note that the fuel tank is the large tank that's held to the body of the car with two metal straps. There'll be a large 17mm bolt or so threaded into it near the rear of the tank/car. That's the fuel tank drain plug. Place your container underneath it, and then loosen and remove that bolt. Keep it handy and don't lose it! At this point gas should be draining. Depending on how full your tank is, this might take awhile. Remember that the CRX fuel tank is about 35 litres or so. A large jug of milk is 4 litres, so I hope you have a big enough container. As it's draining, do the following: now if you look near the lefthand side of the car, by the rear wheel, you'll see a plastic cover overtop some fittings, screwed in with plastic screws. Just remove that cover as much as you can - it'll swing out of the way. Now, don't bother fiddling with anything yet; it'll only make it harder. At this point you should remove the left rear hatch panel, as well as the main storage box (has to be removed to remove the panel). This will allow you to see the fuel pump electrical connections from the inside, as well as easing the removal of the fuel pump feed lines. Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector and push down on the rubber grommet, to push it out of the car - this'll ease removal. You can also remove the thin aluminum cover overtop your fuel tank filling tube. Pulling this out of the way a little, you should be able to see a couple of clamps around rubber tubing. This where your gas runs through before entering the tank. Now, back underneath your car, once it's done draining, plug it back up and tighten the bolt so it doesn't leak. Remove the now-full storage container and cap it off. Set it somewhere safe.
Dropping the Tank
Now you can actually begin dropping the tank (pain in the ***, isn't it?). Those two straps are basically all that's holding the tank to the body of the car. Put the jack up underneath the tank and jack it up a little bit, until it contacts but not hard! You don't want to dent the tank - just support it. Now, you'll note two nuts overtop of those straps. Loosen off the nuts one at a time. The tank should settle a bit. Once you have the straps loosened off, you'll see that there's a hook near the top of the strap that hooks into a hole on the car. Just remove the hooks and drop the straps out of the way. The front of the straps are attached to the car via T-shaped fittings - if they're lifted up, they can also be pulled completely off the car, but that's unnecessary. Now, lower the jack slowly. Near the rear of the tank, you should be able to see some rubber fittings and such connected to hoses and electrical wiring. You'll have to remove the hoses and such, but not all the electrical fittings. Near that plastic cover by the side, you'll see that the hoses and such are connected to the body of the car via some clips. You'll have to remove these and set them aside. Try to remember how it goes back together - it's a little too complex to explain online! Now, near the front of the tank, you'll notice (underneath the car) two rubber hoses clamped onto two metal tubes. This is the gas tank filler tubing, what you can see from on top of the car. If you can, remove these clamps from the tubes and slide the tubes away from the car. They might spill some gas. At this point, I believe the tank is free (though I may be wrong). Do one final check to make sure it's free before CAREFULLY dropping it to the ground, and sliding it away from the car.
Reinstalling the Tank
Installation is the reverse of removal - first, make sure the straps are connected near the front of the car (the T-shaped fitting location, not the hooks). Slide the tank as far forward as possible and then lift up the front of the tank. Jacking up the tank a little, reconnect as much as you can, a step at a time; going slowly is the key to getting it all done right at this phase. It's easy to twist some of the lines incorrectly, especially the fitting connecting to the fuel pump, since this is hard to install. Lift the tank up as far as possible, and then reconnect the hook part of the straps. Shift the tank around, make sure everything's connected, and generally perform one final check to make sure no lines are twisted, all the electrical lines are hooked up, and it's generally in there right. Now jack it up into final position, and then tighten up the straps. Make sure you remembered to pull the fuel pump electrical fitting up through into the body of the car, reinstall the grommet, and reconnect the fuel tank. You can do one final check to make sure it's not leaking, refill the fuel tank, reconnect your battery, and then start the car carefully ;D. Congrats - that's the ugliest job of all time!
Dropping your Fuel Tank Starting Notes
Dropping the fuel tank is a grungy, thankless task. But once you've done this, you'll know you can handle most absolutely disgusting jobs without too much of a hassle - and there's none that I've performed that were worse than dropping the fuel tank. Get ready to get high off gas fumes.
Parts You'll Need
A very large container to hold the excess gas (it's best to attempt this with an empty, or near-empty, gas tank as you'll need to drain it before dropping it), a socket set, a wrench set, a jack, two jackstands, a 2X4 chunk of wood.
Preparation: Part I
If you can, by all means drive your car until your gas tank is empty. Never, ever attempt this at night, or on a hot day... basically, don't do it anytime that you could reasonably expect a heat source, a spark, or anything of that sort to be around. Make sure your battery's unplugged before you first begin this procedure, to prevent any electrical discharges and large explosions. This is a dangerous procedure, no doubt about it. Alright, now that the disclaimers are out of the way, let's begin. First, pop your hood and use that socket set to unplug your negative battery cable. It might be a good idea to also try to start the car with the battery unplugged, to make sure any residual charges have been evacuated. Now you need to depressurize the fuel system. This is accomplished by looking underneath the hood at the fuel filter - it's the large black-or-bronze container that's mounted on the firewall. It'll have a -6AN or so tube running into the fuel rail, and it's got another -6AN or so tube running into the firewall. The fuel rail itself has another -6AN tube or so running out of the fuel pressure regulator at the opposite end of the fuel rail and back into the firewall - that's the fuel return line. Anyway, you need to take a look at the fuel filter. On the top of it, you can see two sets of bolts. One of these has another bolt threaded into the top of it. This is the fuel pressure release valve. Hold the large banjo bolt on the bottom steady, and loosen off the top smaller release valve bolt. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, you'll see the pressure dip to zero. Tighten it back up and you're ready to jack up your car.
Preparation: Part II
OK, we may now begin. Jack up the rear of the car and support it firmly with jackstands. Now, take your very large container and place it underneath the fuel tank at the rear of the vehicle. You'll note that the fuel tank is the large tank that's held to the body of the car with two metal straps. There'll be a large 17mm bolt or so threaded into it near the rear of the tank/car. That's the fuel tank drain plug. Place your container underneath it, and then loosen and remove that bolt. Keep it handy and don't lose it! At this point gas should be draining. Depending on how full your tank is, this might take awhile. Remember that the CRX fuel tank is about 35 litres or so. A large jug of milk is 4 litres, so I hope you have a big enough container. As it's draining, do the following: now if you look near the lefthand side of the car, by the rear wheel, you'll see a plastic cover overtop some fittings, screwed in with plastic screws. Just remove that cover as much as you can - it'll swing out of the way. Now, don't bother fiddling with anything yet; it'll only make it harder. At this point you should remove the left rear hatch panel, as well as the main storage box (has to be removed to remove the panel). This will allow you to see the fuel pump electrical connections from the inside, as well as easing the removal of the fuel pump feed lines. Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector and push down on the rubber grommet, to push it out of the car - this'll ease removal. You can also remove the thin aluminum cover overtop your fuel tank filling tube. Pulling this out of the way a little, you should be able to see a couple of clamps around rubber tubing. This where your gas runs through before entering the tank. Now, back underneath your car, once it's done draining, plug it back up and tighten the bolt so it doesn't leak. Remove the now-full storage container and cap it off. Set it somewhere safe.
Dropping the Tank
Now you can actually begin dropping the tank (pain in the ***, isn't it?). Those two straps are basically all that's holding the tank to the body of the car. Put the jack up underneath the tank and jack it up a little bit, until it contacts but not hard! You don't want to dent the tank - just support it. Now, you'll note two nuts overtop of those straps. Loosen off the nuts one at a time. The tank should settle a bit. Once you have the straps loosened off, you'll see that there's a hook near the top of the strap that hooks into a hole on the car. Just remove the hooks and drop the straps out of the way. The front of the straps are attached to the car via T-shaped fittings - if they're lifted up, they can also be pulled completely off the car, but that's unnecessary. Now, lower the jack slowly. Near the rear of the tank, you should be able to see some rubber fittings and such connected to hoses and electrical wiring. You'll have to remove the hoses and such, but not all the electrical fittings. Near that plastic cover by the side, you'll see that the hoses and such are connected to the body of the car via some clips. You'll have to remove these and set them aside. Try to remember how it goes back together - it's a little too complex to explain online! Now, near the front of the tank, you'll notice (underneath the car) two rubber hoses clamped onto two metal tubes. This is the gas tank filler tubing, what you can see from on top of the car. If you can, remove these clamps from the tubes and slide the tubes away from the car. They might spill some gas. At this point, I believe the tank is free (though I may be wrong). Do one final check to make sure it's free before CAREFULLY dropping it to the ground, and sliding it away from the car.
Reinstalling the Tank
Installation is the reverse of removal - first, make sure the straps are connected near the front of the car (the T-shaped fitting location, not the hooks). Slide the tank as far forward as possible and then lift up the front of the tank. Jacking up the tank a little, reconnect as much as you can, a step at a time; going slowly is the key to getting it all done right at this phase. It's easy to twist some of the lines incorrectly, especially the fitting connecting to the fuel pump, since this is hard to install. Lift the tank up as far as possible, and then reconnect the hook part of the straps. Shift the tank around, make sure everything's connected, and generally perform one final check to make sure no lines are twisted, all the electrical lines are hooked up, and it's generally in there right. Now jack it up into final position, and then tighten up the straps. Make sure you remembered to pull the fuel pump electrical fitting up through into the body of the car, reinstall the grommet, and reconnect the fuel tank. You can do one final check to make sure it's not leaking, refill the fuel tank, reconnect your battery, and then start the car carefully ;D. Congrats - that's the ugliest job of all time!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 5
From: I told you to wait in the truck in Texas, United States
Re: (CRX+MaAN)
It could be leaking out through an o-ring but at
any rate it is not safe to drive if the tank does not hold pressure..
I would drain it,drop it,and inspect..
Drain plug on bottom:
Also see this site for reference:
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...s.htm
{pages 11-110 through 11-113}
PS> wear safety googles or something to keep the crap out of your eyes...
any rate it is not safe to drive if the tank does not hold pressure..
I would drain it,drop it,and inspect..
Drain plug on bottom:
Also see this site for reference:
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/...s.htm
{pages 11-110 through 11-113}
PS> wear safety googles or something to keep the crap out of your eyes...
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Portland, OR, USA
Re: (dflipmode)
Wow Thank you very much for the help.. I didnt even expect that much attention. I am going to go about this, this weekend. Again, thanks for the writeup it will be very useful. 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 288
Likes: 0
From: Hope Mills, NC, US
Re: (CRX+MaAN)
If its the tank on ebay from 1 A-Automotive I think is their correct name, I purchased one from them and was very happy with the tank. Its a very easy swap as others have posted. You'll get all the gaskets you'll need and everything will swap right over. Get some pb buster to spray on the two bolts that attach the straps. If they are rusted up, you may just want to pick up some new ones.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 3,510
Likes: 0
From: Reading, Pa
Re: (NCRXSi)
If you need a new tank try http://www.gastanks.com/ I ordered one from them showed up in 2 days and very well constructed. No drain hole like the OEM one though but much better price wise.
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: oceanside, ca, usa
Re: (dflipmode)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dflipmode »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here you go man....here's a write up for you
Dropping your Fuel Tank Starting Notes
Congrats - that's the ugliest job of all time! </TD></TR></TABLE>
One of the BEST write ups I have seen!
Wish I had read this BEFORE I changed out the Fuel pump on my CRX!
Really nice job!
~BAC
Dropping your Fuel Tank Starting Notes
Congrats - that's the ugliest job of all time! </TD></TR></TABLE>
One of the BEST write ups I have seen!
Wish I had read this BEFORE I changed out the Fuel pump on my CRX!
Really nice job!
~BAC
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