Does anyone have the actual weight comparison's of a CF hood to stock hood and CF Hatch to stock hatch, what about cf fenders and stock fenders?

 

Free bump for a guy who uses the correct chassis code for usdm cars! I'm also interested in the weights...

 

I'm sure the hood is a big difference. Cant help you with anything though.

Take the ac out?

 

stock is like 31lbs cf is 15...

 

i think my stock one weighed in at 32 pounds, but the scale could be slightly off. ... my CF hood feels like its about 4 pounts. NOTHING there when you open it up....feels so light. i chiped about 10 pounds of tar out of the car, pulled 15 pounds of nasty carpet and padding out, threw in a corbeau race seat that was about 20 pounds lighter than stock, and did some other stuff. all these other numbers are just educated guesses.

 

i did a few things on my b16a 88 crx

removed all interior, including dash
removed tar
removed a.c.
no power steering.
hawker battery (11 pounds i think) and relocated it in the back.
removed passenger seat
no bumper support

if there is anything else, ill edit it.

 

how much does a stripped interior, 10 lbs racing seats, compact battery, ac save on a car? (interior i mean the tar and carpet and everything)

 

probably not enough to matter on a daily driven car. but maybe around 65 to 75 pounds? im trying to be conservative here.

 

thats not too bad.

 

For a daily driver, weight reduction isn't really a big deal. You tear everything out of these cars and put it in a box, it still doesn't break 50lb. (seats exception. bride seats are the way to go but $$$$)

Carbon Fiber stuff is the only really good weight reduction. Get CF hood and fenders and relocate the battery. Pull out the AC unit. Get that excess baggage off the front end.

 

What about a fiberglass hood compared to a CF or stock hood?
*do they even make FG hoods for ef civics/crx's?

 

stock ef fenders are a pretty thin material anyway, so i doubt cf fenders would make a huge difference, im sure a cf rear hatch w/ a lexan window would be alot lighter, as well as lexan rear quarter panel windows.

but i dont know how good lexan woudl be on a daily driver

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eumoria &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For a daily driver, weight reduction isn't really a big deal. You tear everything out of these cars and put it in a box, it still doesn't break 50lb. (seats exception. bride seats are the way to go but $$$$)

Carbon Fiber stuff is the only really good weight reduction. Get CF hood and fenders and relocate the battery. Pull out the AC unit. Get that excess baggage off the front end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What's the weight distribution on an ef? I'd rather have more weight in the front for better traction. I also hear lexan is not good for daily drivers because it's harder to see out of when it's sunny outside.

 

I've been trying to get my 88std model down to 1800lbs for SM. Still in the process of doing it, but it cost alot of money as you all know. Trying to do it legally by the book. Their are other things you could remove like sound deadening,carpet, rear plastic,etc.... but I won't list them because I can't do them but this might give you a little insight. On a side note lexan isn't street legal if I remember correctly?
EF rear seats weigh: 33lbs
jack and spare:27lbs
stock si seat:32lbs?
stock hood:31lbs
battery :28lbs
flywheel:19lbs
header:31lbs
rear seat belts:6lbs
rear cargo cover:4lbs
ecu cover:1lbs
ac system under dash:6lbs
front sway bar+rear:20lbs
radio+spearkers:15lbs
Like I said their are other things you can take out but I didn't list them.
Carbon fiber hood weighs 10lbs usually
lightweight battery 12lbs
lightweight flywheel 9lbs
dc sport one peice header7lbs
sparco evo3 seat 15lbs
If you want to get absolutely redicilous like me you can start replacing bolts with aluminum or titanium bolts. Or even replace your front crossmember with a aftermarket one because they weigh half the weight of the stock one.
Replace rear sway bar with a hollow rear bar, in the process of getting one still but they do make it. Front Si sway bar is terrible to begin with so get a HF one or take it off completely. Get a HF bumper supports because they are considerably lighter then Si or DX bumper supports. I'm looking at all of this from a racing standpoint so you might not even want swaybars or even a passenger seat.

 

heres my setup.

all tar removed
spare,jack removed
sound deadening
seatbelts were broke so i took them out
front and rear bumper supprts are removed.
the rear support is pretty heavy!
soon to have the rear hatch done in lexan. that piece of glass is very heavy. thats pretty much as much as im goin with my car. im not sure if im doin the lexan in the rear jsut because i dont want that in the winter time with snow and so on. the only other thing i plan on getting is a racing seat and harness for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91siredrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres my setup.

all tar removed
sound deadening
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i just stripped out the rear of my car. how did you guys remove that tar **** that is right behind the seats? i have tried a couple things like "goo be gone" and even acetone but no success...

thank you for the help.

 

heat gun and a chizzle. works best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sekz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat gun and a chizzle. works best. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yup.

 

grassy *** ameego.

 

Tc spoiler hood weighs only 10 pounds!

 

you can also use dry ice to remove tar.

 

dry ice is such a better way to do it. ive done the chizzle and heat gun trick and that just plain sucked. with the dry ice i could place it on the tar, come back in 5 min start picking it up and placing it on the next piece of tar i wanted up and chip out the tar that had been fronzen, it probably didn't take me an hour to get the whole thing done with dry ice. with the chizzle, it took me almost 30 min just to get it up, not to mention all the sweat that came off of me during the process. at least with the dry ice you can stay cool.

ive also heard people who live further north just waiting till winter comes on a super cold night and leaving there doors open for a few hours and then coming back and chipping it up.

 

what is this tar you all speak of. Is it the glue for the carpet or underbody ****.....?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think my stock one weighed in at 32 pounds, but the scale could be slightly off. ... my CF hood feels like its about 4 pounts. NOTHING there when you open it up....feels so light. i chiped about 10 pounds of tar out of the car, pulled 15 pounds of nasty carpet and padding out, threw in a corbeau race seat that was about 20 pounds lighter than stock, and did some other stuff. all these other numbers are just educated guesses. </TD></TR></TABLE>
20lbs of carpet? do you know what 20lbs feels like? i cant see it weighing more then 10lbs at the MOST

-edit- does chipping up the tar chip up the paint to?

 

you might be able to be really careful and not scrape the paint up much but im so impatient i want something that will work quick, and the heat method was just not cutting it.