G'Day Honda Peeps.

Firstly, thanks in advance for all the input that you may give.

1991 Honda Accord 2.2L Automatic. Got er for my daughter. Had a wicked leaking oil pan gasket. But this is no prob. Just had move a few things to get er done.

It ran pretty ok for approx.160km, (90 ish miles). Then immediately started stalling while braking (city speeds). A slight shudder in reverse also appeared with a noticably lower rpm, (500 ish... normally 900).

We did the usual refreshments when buying a "new to us" car, fresh oil, filter, fuel filter & plugs. Oil pan gasket as well.

After discovering the stalling issue, we then proceeded to do:
- a compression test (135/135/125/125)
- a vaccum test (18 psi)
- coolant system leak down test (held firm, at 15 psi)

After that was all done, we then:
- installed a new PCV
- cleaned the PCV ports, the IACV and throttle body with carb cleaner
- pulled the injectors and cleaned accordingly
- lightly fogged the vaccum lines to see if there was an idle increase
- replaced the IACV with a used (and known to be good) one

There is fuel pressure in the rail before and after it stalls, (but no actual fuel pressure test).

I can only think that there is a few things left. But wonder if anyone here can give some insight as to what may be the next best attempt before we go down that route. We will be doing a fuel pressure test to see if the pump is peetering out.

I have heard that a faulty torque converter can have these symptoms.
Possibly fuel pump
Possibly new IACV
We are getting pretty discouraged. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thx
Cam

 

Problem appears to be related when your center of gravity is pushed forward.
During braking and reverse.

How does it stall?
Is it a stuttering stall or does it just cut out cleanly?
Does the dash and tach follow the engine stalling, or does it just cut out?

Are there any loose hoses or wires that possibly move around underhood?
How much fuel is in the tank when this happens?

Because of the age of the car my knee jerk reaction is to suspect the ignition starter switch.
Try driving around with only the ignition key. No other key chain, keys, or charms hanging off the ignition. Does it change its behavior?

 

Well........the first thing I would do if this were my ride is to "clamp off" the brake booster vacuum hose and see if this makes a difference on a test drive.

That's just me...... It is "quick and dirty" and doesn't cost anything. I would add that your compression numbers are a little bit low, and this makes idling a bit more difficult at lower RPM's You might have to somehow see if you can manually keep the throttle plate open a bit if you can't find a definitive diagnosis.