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Quick question, wanting to do a k-swap in my 99 ek coupe. I'm wanting to get the eg/dc subframe. I had someone ask me about which eg subframe I want (i.e. DX, or EX). Does it matter if it DX or EX, and if so what is the difference? I guess, same question go for the Integra subframe (94- 01) , what's the difference between the different models? Is it just having PS rack or manual rack ? Sorry for the dumb questions.
Thank you,
PS. sorry if this is in the wrong spot, admin move if so!
Power steering vs non-power steering is the difference. All Integras came with power steering, easy there. Don't rely on trim level for Civics though... for example, two & three door DX's were manual but four door DX's were powered.
Power steering vs non-power steering is the difference. All Integras came with power steering, easy there. Don't rely on trim level for Civics though... for example, two & three door DX's were manual but four door DX's were powered.
So if I'm going to use a EG subframe (92-95) for the k-swap. I can really use any of them? Doesn't matter if it's a couple, hatch, or sedan ?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but i hear its easier driving for a manual rack then converting a power rack to manual by looping the lines. Is that true ?
The correct way to de-power the rack is to open it and cut the plate off. Then grease the teeth and pinion, then reassemble it. Then you can JB weld the hydraulic ports closed.
Looping it is a bandaid to keep it lubed, but then you're moving hydraulic fluid around and making it tougher to steer.
There's not much difference in effort between a properly depowered rack and a manual rack, but the manual rack is much slower (3.3 LTL or something like that, I forget).
I'm probably the wrong person to ask though. I've had manual, powered and depowered, but I'll take the powered every time if it's an option. Life goals for a track car build is to have a manual rack with an electric column and a quickener. Would love to get down to ~2 turn LTL while getting the weight all behind the firewall.
I’m wanting to have a good daily drivable car, I current have 99 ek coupe. I have a full swap from a 05 RSX type-s. So would the manual rack out of a 93 eg be ok? I don’t think with that swap I can keep the power steering, if I’m not mistaken. What do you guys think would be the best option?
I know this has been answered plenty of times, but just to confirm with y'all. When switching over to the eg subframe on an ek. You need; subframe, LCA, compliance bushing, the U-joint to connect rack to column, and then all corresponding bolts. Is that about it ?
Anyone know these swaps well enough to know why my car feels like it’s dancing all over the road over 40mph? I have a 96 hatchback with eg subframe. k-tuned front UCAs(ek),k-tuned front LCAs(eg), k-tuned k1 coilovers, k-tuned rear LCAs, k-tuned rear camber arms, k-tuned rear toe arms, as well as the honed development geometry correction kit (lower ball joints, outer tie rods, and trailing arm bracket). Here is my alignment details. Thanks in advance
Likely need to adjust the bumpsteer in the front. You can start with Honed's recommendations but you really need to measure it at a couple of settings and dial it in yourself.
You also are running very little camber everywhere, that's not helping you at all. For a street ca, shoot for -2 to -2.5 in the front and 1 degree less in the rear (i.e., -2.25fr/-1.25rr). Caster should be fine where you are but more will weight up the steering a bit and increase the self centering.
Make sure you compliance bushings in the front are in good shape, they do most of the work of holding the front lower arms where they should.
Find a knowledgeable race shop to do your alignment. Looks like you took it to a regular mechanic who only knows to type your car information into the machine and make everything green.