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i have a 1993 Accord Ex with the 5spd manual. i got it for $100 bucks from my neighbor.
his son hit a pot hole and then a curb. they believe the yoke or cv axle was pulled out of the transmission and popped back in messing something up. (passenger side)
in first or reverse you can only move a few feet before everything binds up and you come to a stop. how ever in neutral you can move the car (by hand).
i will hopefully be pulling the engine and transmission so i can see what happened inside of it.
any guesses? mine is a bearing or ring gear tooth was knocked off and is now stuck in the gears.
Looks like the boot got caught up in the dislocated inner tripod joint.
Just replace it as the tripod may have been damaged from being overly extended, same with the cup.
Quality 10W-30 or MTF is spec'd, I've used 10W-30 in the CB-1.
lower ball joint is toast. i have never seen one wiggle when you shake it. couldn't get any movement out of the lower control arm so i think the bushing are fine. new ball joint is a whopping $4 hahaha
Turns out there were two very shot motor mounts, one bad and one good (the rear). I replaced all 4 and haven't had an issue with the cv axle. Put in a new fuel filter while I was replacing the rear mount.
ac system almost worked, sounds like an over pressure valve dumped all the freon ... getting suction at the fitting by the radiator on the passenger side. Strange.
winsheild is cracked. Gotta fix that but it's all that's left to get it registered.
so far, including cost of car and a couple random parts I sold, I'm $180 into this and I have a drivable car.
forgot to add the clock spring is bad as well. only found one available on ebay (used). couldnt find one new. are they not made anymore, by anyone?
Two things I've found out about airbags and clock springs is they tend to not have much of an aftermarket, as the liability is quite high.
This usually leaves the DIY out of luck, and shipping can be expensive as they are considered hazardous(explosive). There are a few specialty shops that only deal with SRS, but again these are usually not accessible to the common DIY'r. Maybe call around to a few body shops and see who they use for clocksprings/airbags.
A/C doesnt work. compressor clutch kicks on. filled the system up with refrigerant and there was a sound like a wastegate dumping and all the refrigerant dumped out.
is the evap/pressure relief valve in the cab or on the firewall somewhere?
will pm you the super secret link to free honda helm shop manuals.
posting it her is a no-no.
also check bookfinder/allbookstores/ebay for a cheap used haynes manual.
worth it for the pics alone.
any guesses as to why the passenger CV axle keep separating if you reverse and turn at the same time? this is the third time its happened. each with a new cv axle and so far i have replaced: all 4 motor mounts and the lower ball joint.
i ordered an upper ball joint, lower control arm bushings, tie rods and a new cv axle.
nothing appears to be loose, worn or our of alignment.
Have you inspected the inner stub axle circlip?
Some axles have really crappy circlips, I have a stash of Honda Circlips to use just in case an aftermarket axles circlip looks wimpy.
You need to physically look at everything under the front. Something is either bent from the kid wrecking it, which is more than likely, or the axle is the wrong length.
You need to physically look at everything under the front. Something is either bent from the kid wrecking it, which is more than likely, or the axle is the wrong length.
i cant find anything bent, tweaked, loose, worn, etc.
the cv axle came from advance auto. guess its out of whack. gonna replace stuff just because and i ordered a cv axle from a different brand.
any idea on the length it should be? passenger side, manual trans.
04-01-2019, 11:52 AM
$100 project with a binding issue
