IndyTeg

Hello my fellow Honda-Tech members. After 16 long years, I am finally in a position where I have both the time and money (well, mostly the money) to build/boost my Integra like I always wished I could. My 1999 Integra GSR had been my dependable daily driver since my sophomore year of high school back in 2002 until just a few years ago when I finally retired it from daily driver status. It now has just under 220,000 miles, and has a few rust spots on some body panels here and there. However, the underside of the vehicle and major body structures are still in good shape and have only some minor surface rusting at worst. This being the case, I decided it was time to begin the journey of my long time dream of a turbo build, and a little later down the road getting all the body ailments repaired as well.

So, I'll start out with the most important question of any build: purpose. The purpose of my build is to have a summer weather, semi-daily driver that I will take to work a few days a week, putz around on the freeway occasionally on weekends, and possibly take to the drag strip once or twice a summer. Power goal is low to mid 400whp on 93 pump gas, and around the 500 whp mark with race gas/e85/methanol injection.

I have been working closely with Mac from Speed Trapp Consulting putting my build together to meet my purpose and power goals. I recently purchased a "Banshee" turbocharger from him that will put me perfectly in the power goals that I am looking for and still give me good streetability with lots of mid range torque. Here is my build list so far:

Engine Block:
- Golden Eagle sleeves, 84mm bore, machined for copper o-ring
gaskets
- Skunk2 Alpha series H-beam rods w/ ARP 2000 hardware (purchased)
- Wiseco pistons, 84mm, .750" wrist pins, about 10.5:1 compression (purchased)
- LS crankshaft, balanced and micropolished (purchased)
- Golden Eagle block-off plugs for piston oil jets
- new OEM main bolts and bearings, OEM or ACL rod bearings
- Golden Eagle 84mm head gasket
- ARP head studs (purchased)

Engine Head:
- GSC Turbo stage 1 cams (purchased)
- GSC valve spring kit w/ titanium retainers (purchased)
- Ferrea 6000 series int. and ex. valves, stock dia. (purchased)
- viton valve stem seals (purchased)
- new OEM keepers
- new OEM lost motion assemblies
- Greddy timing belt (purchased)

Turbo Setup:
- STC "Banshee" turbocharger w/ .63A/R turbine housing, ceramic coated (purchased)
- Garrett 600hp intercooler, black anodized, 2.5" inlet and outlet (purchased)
- STC oil feed and return kit, GT series water line kit (purchased)
- Lovefab "Mini-EQ" manifold (P/S compatible) (purchased)
- Lovefab 3" downpipe and dumptube (purchased)
- GO-Autoworks 2.5" intercooler piping kit (purchased)
- Turbosmart comp 40mm wastegate (purchased)
- HKS racing bov (purchased)
- Skunk2 pro intake manifold /w 70mm TB (purchased)
- Koyo aluminum radiator (purchased)

Fuel Management:
- Hondata S300 ecu package/base tune from Phearable.net
- South Bay Injectors 1000cc Honda fuel injectors (purchased)
- Walbro 255lph hp fuel pump (GSS-342) (purchased)
- AEM adjustable fpr (purchased)
- Golden Eagle fuel rail

Ignition:
- stock distributor setup
- new OEM cap and rotor
- Accel high performance internal ignition coil
- NGK high performance plug wires (purchased)
- NGK plugs (purchased)

Transmission/Drivetrain:
- ACT Xtreme pressure plate (purchased) w/ 6 puck sprung disc
- ACT street flywheel
- SpeedFactory shift change holder assembly (still deciding)
- MFactory or Quaiffe LSD
- Insane Shafts 500hp axles (purchased)
- new OEM bearings/seals
- Synchrotech carbon synchros (if needed)

This isn't everything, but should you a pretty good idea at least. I'm not in a big hurry to get the build done, as most of my time is spent being a husband and dad when im not at work. But hope to have everything put together and ready for the dyno by the end of winter, beginning of spring.

As of now, I have the engine and transmission removed from the car, and have engine block stripped and the head partially stripped. I'll post pictures of the removal and disassembly Ive done so far later tonight or in the next day or two.

Txdragon

Good plan laid out! Seems ironic to say the car is "retiring" when it is getting all beefed up. Lol! Looking forward to seeing some progress. Depending on the age of the kiddos, you may have some help with your project. I put my son and daughter to work on many occasions with mine!

K7-1Ktrevor

IndyTeg

Thank you, and by retiring, I mean from the demands of everyday driving, mainly exposure to more salty roads in the winter. My son is 3 years old, so im probably only going to get limited help from him and his 10 second attention span. Lol. But of course I try to at least teach him the names of all the different parts (we learned the word "turbocharger" last night!)

IndyTeg

I actually decided to ditch the tubular log manifold idea, and am planning on getting a "mini-me" manifold from Cody Loveland through Mac (@TheShodan). Cody's mostly into aerodynamics now, but still does some manifold fabrication. I don't think he makes the AC compatible manifold anymore, but still makes the PS compatible one, which I'm ok with. I honestly didn't use my AC much anyways except on those 90+ degree dog days of summer.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Tubular log manifolds are actually pretty good, especially with 54lbs/min units like the smaller turbochargers. (you should see the stock exhaust manifolds on Evolution III-X, they are amazing units) However, I'm seeing an increasing trend from fabricators stating that they no longer make them because regardless of how well they try to make them, there are still some cracking issues in the joints, and therefore, doesn't justify the cost to make and sell them. So, I'm noticing fewer organizations and businesses making them other than P-fab.




I've always loved the Mini-EQ just for the shear fact that it was made in the original split-pulse "Kiwi" configuration that eBay (SS Autochrome, Johnny Racecar, etc) ruined by using polished B.S. Pipe-steel. It works with a full-sized Radiator and still allows for a few amenities outside of A/C. It's pricey, and Cody won't make many (He's busy with other things) but I think its worth it. It just so happens that he's making one for me, and since he'll have that jig setup, he agreed to make two of them if they were made at the same time.





This is of course the eBay Bullshit I'm referring to:




Here's what mine will look like from Affinity Aero.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I remember when I "retired" my Integra as a daily driver YEARS ago. It was bitter sweet as I knew I was always going to keep the car, but was never going to get true value for it, if it were hit by another car, and daily maintenance is just so much more damned expensive vs even doing one of these transformations. With the number of miles on IndyTeg's GS-R (220,000 + miles he himself put onto the car), I'm sure he's got his work cut out for him in the way of chassis work (suspension arms, bushings, compliance bushings, trailing arms, LCAs, UCAs, the list goes on) that he has to worry about. Especially with the horrible winters and super heated summers Indiana can have.

The worst part is that as the GEH Hondas are getting into the 20-30 year age, quality parts (even in the aftermarket) are getting more difficult to come by, so Indyteg has a limited amount of time to get this stuff before it is completely phased out.

I can still see some of the original epoxy glue underneath my chassis, because I started buying beater winter cars in the early 2000s. I now have to worry about parts rarity and replacement carpet and under-shields.

IndyTeg

Turbo came in this week, along with a lot of other parts. Its been like Christmas every day, lol. Wanted to share some pictures of the turbo. It came out looking fantastic, Mac really did an amazing job! Can't wait to see how it performs!

Balor_Gr

Wow id like results from this.It will PULL! Torque happy super fun daily driven setup!
Who makes the Vband-mini-Eq on the photo Mac?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Because two were being made at the same time, (and he was genuinely interested in the project) Affinity Aero (formally LoveFab) did me a solid by helping Indyteg out with the hotparts. Don't expect for it to happen again anytime soon

Balor_Gr

Aah i see ite just a name change for the lovefab.
He wont fab anymore? It looks almost perfect design wise and i dont like 90% of the manifold designs haha.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Nope. Like most aftermarket shops, got tired of the Honda crowd, too much fraud, no one had patience anymore to wait for complete parts and then they start unnecessary chargebacks. So he and his partner do aero only.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

That's a bummer. I was running a LoveFab sidewinder manifold on my setup back in 2004. He made great stuff.

LightningTeg

Subbed

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Still does.. They're just focusing on other aspects of motorsports

IndyTeg

**UPDATE 10-29-2018**

It's been a little while since I last posted, so just wanted to provide a quick summary of everything so far. I have purchased and received almost all the parts for my build, still waiting on the hotparts to be finished up over at Affinity Aero/Lovefab. I received a used LS crank today that I purchased off of a H-T memeber. There's a little bit wear to the journals, but hopefully nothing that the machine shop can't polish out. Now that the crank is here, I'm hoping to get the bottom end sent out to Golden Eagle this week to get all the sleeving and machining work rolling. I'm also going to be sending the head out to one of Mac's trusted shops up in his neck of the woods. Sadly, there aren't any reputable machine shops around here, which is why I only feel comfortable sending my parts to shops that have done plenty of work on these Honda engines and won't botch my sh*t up. Lol.

On the chassis side of things, I went ahead and purchased a Tein FlexZ coilover kit with Skunk2 front upper arms and rear camber arms. I also added on Tein's EDFC Active Controller kit which allows you to adjust your damper settings through an electronic motor that attaches to each individual coil over. It can even tell when you're decelerating and accelerating via a built-in gyroscope type sensor, and can adjust damper settings automatically to reduce squatting and nose diving! I'm really excited to see how this system will perform. Thanks Mac for the hook up on all this! Anyone else running an electronic suspension setup like this? I'd be interested in hearing what you think about it.

IndyTeg

Here's some pictures from the engine removal/disassembly. I was pretty impressed how everything looked inside after 220k. The cylinder walls looked great, no scratches or gouges, could still see the factory hone. Crank journals looked great, darn near perfect actually. Only problem was the keyway on the snout was damaged at one point due to the crank bolt coming loose. It also caused the timing gear to become seized on the crank, which I didn't discover until this disassembly process. I ended up taking the crankshaft out with the oil pump still attached, and was able to do this by cutting through the oil pump dowel pins with a small handsaw, which completely freed the pump from the block. Head looked pretty good too, just some minor wear on some of the cam journals. Rocker pads were shiny and smooth, and all the LMAs seemed to still be working - no binding or sticking. Valve seals look like they had been leaking for some time as evidenced by the excessive deposit build-up around the exhaust valve guides. The clutch is all original, never replaced in all of its 220k miles, and it was still working before I started the tear down process. BTW, this was all done by myself in the corner of my garage at home, so please excuse any items in the pictures that seem out of place. lol

LightningTeg

Thats gonna look so much better once its all cleaned up.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Agreed. The Crank looks to be in decent condition. Nothing that a good polish won't clean up. Clean up that block a bit before sending to GE. They'll do a full bath chemical bath anyway, but it'll be easier for them to handle without all the old oil sludge on it.
Make sure you read GE's instructions before sending. I'd keep all of the freeze plugs and other smaller hex plugs IN, and don't remove them.

Lastly, on the cylinder head, there's a small rubber o-ring in the middle of the head on the exhaust side(?) of the head connecting to the block. DON'T LOSE THAT o-ring, the head gasket needs that to seal properly.

Things look like they're coming along.

IndyTeg

The crank in the pictures is actually the original GSR crank. I can post pictures of the LS crank I got later today and let you see what the journals look like (unfortunately they dont seem to be in as good a shape as the GSR crank :-/ )

With regard to the o-ring you mentioned, are you referring to the o-ring for the oil control orifice? If so, I already purchased a new orifice that came with a new o-ring as well.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. That's exactly what I was referring to. Good thinking, mate.. Please show the other LS crank.. Let's take a look at what we're dealing with.

IndyTeg

Here's the LS crank with close-ups of the journals, starting at the rear going down the line. None of the scoring actually "catches" my fingernail, but I can definitely feel some of them. I'm really hoping a good polish will take care of it:

Balor_Gr

Get some very experienced to see it in person before you assemble with it.
It looks kinda tired. It might work good but you can spend a lot of time and money if it eats your bearings in 3 months

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I disagree. that's actually not that bad. I've seen much, much worse. A good machine shop can polish that out without removing all of the nitride treatment on there. You'd be fine at less than .005" I say polish-er up.

LightningTeg

Looks good to me