Elton Lauring

Hey!

i had an account here for years but now loggin in it said some SEO hacked something something. So here I am with a new account asking for help

i have an 91y Accord CB7, 2.2i..
A month ago my alternator voltage regulator died and started charging up to 18v :D
So I changed the regulator and everything was well and good for about a month..
Now I have a battery light burning in my cluster, but battery charging is all normal. I also have a 2-3month old battery so that shoudln't be also an issue.

I was suggested, maybe it's a diode..

I tested everything like in this video and my results were:
Multimeter + cable on charging bolt & - cable on alternator ground = 1
Multimeter + cable on alternator ground / - cable on charging bolt = -615

So I'm really confused and don't know what to do. I've been driving around with the lit up battery light for a bit now and I don't notice anything out of the usual. i just really want to get the actual light working so 1.there wouldn't be a bright light in my dash all the time and 2.I'd actually know when there Really is a problem with charging

Thank you all for any kind of help

MAD_MIKE

I would re- check the four pin round connector on the back of the alternator. Make sure the Wht/Blu wire is properly connected and not damaged.
Alt light is a simple circuit. It operates on difference of potential. If the circuit is open on either side of the lamp the light will come on. This is why it can flicker/come on dim when the alternator is not properly charging.

If the car has ABS the ALT warning lamp is also tied into the circuit.

somick

I am confused with your results.

Car not running your battery terminals should read 12.4 - 12.6 volts.

With the car idling your readings at the terminals would be something like 13.8 volts.

Your voltage regulator might have died.

Good luck,
Sam

Elton Lauring

Okay, the white/blue wire check is actually something I can do.. I'll check it on monday and let you know
My light doesn't flicker or dim tho, it's brightly on and not changing..

I have ABS, but it's not working so I have the fuse removed for like 2-3years now already

Like I said, that was before changing the regulator.
Currently not running is around 12..something and running is around 13.8-14.2 something..


But still overall, super thank you to u guys, so fast responses

Elton Lauring

Suggestions anyone? Light is still on

holmesnmanny

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412

After buying either a reman Pure Energy or Denso alternator, you can purchase a return label. When the new alternator comes, put the old one in the box and put the return shipping label on the box and drop it off to be sent back and you will get your core in a few days.

Elton Lauring

So you're suggesting that I should fully replace my alternator?
But my alternator and regulator is fine? I mean, it charges at a normal voltage and beside the annoying light I haven't noticed any other problems :/

Thanks!

Elton Lauring

UP! Does anyone have any idea?
I really don't feel like taking a working alternator to an electric, when I have a possibility to fix it myself

-
Help me save an old Accord :D

somick

So, did you re-check that connector?

Accordian47

What is the voltage across the two battery terminals when the car is running? (Meter + lead on battery + and meter - on battery -)
It should be between 12.3v and 12.6v at idle and closer to 14v or so @ 2,000rpm and above.

Elton Lauring

I did and it seemed tight :/

Jup, 12.3-12.6 at idle and 14something when revved.. :/

I'm stuck without ideas here, thanks for thinking with me :D

holmesnmanny

with the car warmed up and the headlights on, what's the voltage ?

Elton Lauring

Currently it's 00:00 at Estonia, so I'll give that answer tomorrow.. But just to clarify - measured from where? Battery or the alternator?
And do you mean idle voltage?

Many thanks

holmesnmanny

measured across the battery terminals