Txdragon

Just when I thought I was getting somewhere.. When i highlight a graph point, I can scroll through them along the column or row.. Going down the column today, I notice that I start at the topmost point and come down a few clicks and my Highlighted point would bounce around crazy like.. I start sorting out and it seems that my entire high load range was a tangled mess, but looked straight.. Sigh.. Spending time now making sure each point is in its proper place in the column...

motoxxxman

interesting...
in for updates.

Txdragon

I have since totally revamped the map. I gave it all even spacing in between rows making sure they were all in their proper place. Should be MUCH easier getting proper a/f ratios now.
I noticed this seems to have happened from clicking the ol' interpolate button.

Txdragon

NOW i'm getting somewhere!! I have been tuning my low load ranges to start out. Map is looking prettier for sure and getting much closer to my a/f targets. Running through gas like a champ though lol

motoxxxman

lookin good!

Txdragon

So Continuing on with my "new" tune, I am noticing now that lines are wanting to cross again. Is this something I may not be taking into consideration; i.e. conditional settings, that are bouncing me around? I looked into fuel corrections for ECT and IAT and **thought** I was making the right call.. Sheesh.. Or should I worry less about a 2-3% difference over my target and let closed loop sort that out when I switch over?

motoxxxman

this goes back to the consistency I was referring to earlier, in trying to do it all on the same day, and watching iat and ect and waiting until they level out again after each stop, to ensure no parameters are changing except the main fuel and ignition maps.

to be sure though, can you post screenshots of the iat and ect compensation tables for both fuel and ignition? because if those aren't set properly enough, it can cause main table values to overlap.

Txdragon

motoxxxman

ok, doesn't look terrible. iat fuel corrections look like they could use some tweaking but may be decent for now.

what ranges are you getting for iat and ect while you're logging?

Txdragon

I normally run at 175 ECT and IAT ranges from 100 to 121 under regular driving conditions. Only during midday stop and go traffic does it see the high end of that. I set my fan to kick on at 180, so it's even more a rare occurrence of ECT to go higher than 180.

Txdragon

P72 a/f map and p28 ignition table= WOW!! I can tweak my timing a few degrees but damn.. Much, MUCH better.

Txdragon

This is another weird issue. I noticed an engine stumble at about 4500 rpm yesterday evening, consecutively, while driving and logging me drives. I figured more fuel since it acted like a fuel cut. Anywho, I get home and play my datalog and notice my VSS read 0 the entire drive. I watch the gear section and it had 1st recorded the whole drive. Hmmm.. Didn't log my shifts or my speed. VSS, right? Well, my actual car speedometer was working just fine and the car did not throw a CEL. Wtf?! Now what? 95 civic coupe, D16Z6 with DX 5-speed trans, no issue before yesterday evening. If my VSS crapped out all of a sudden, wouldn't there be a cel? Wouldn't my car speedo not work? Do I need just the sensor connection and not the whole unit? Help!

Txdragon

Ok so.. I removed the plug for my VSS and all looks good. Not corroded or anything. Plugged it back in and went for a drive. Speed and gear were properly logged in Neptune this time and I also didn't have any cutout at 4500 rpm. So the cutout is due to the VSS issue as confirmed by testing today. When everything was working properly, revs or boost never cut. Now.. Coming down the road to my house from the main road, I noticed in my datalog that my VSS was very spiky. My road is a bit bumpy so I am wondering what is loose.. Gonna check the wheel sensor and make sure it is all secured and not dirty and so on.
Only thing I can think of at this point is that I recently put new wheels on. Went from 13" stockers to 15". I would expect this to cause some issues, but not like this. We're talking working or dead vs just out of whack for actual speed,

Thoughts? Any input would be very appreciated!

Txdragon

Ok so.. No ABS, therefore no wheel speed sensor.. Makes this even more puzzling. Lol!

sanimalp

The VSS comes from an electrical sensor on the transmission and goes to the ECU directly. did you check that plug? or what sensor/plug did you check?

Txdragon

Yup. The VSS itself. The one on the passenger side, next to firewall on the tranny. When Neptune stops logging vehicle speed, I have to pull over, open hood, unplug and replug the VSS plug. Then it works again for a while. But.. Even though it glitches like this, the car speedo still works. This is what I don't understand. When it glitches out, the car acts as it would if the sensor was busted.. 4500 rpm fuel cut, etc. I get NO cel though. Just the fuel cut. When I uplug and replug, it logs in neptune again and I lose the 4500 rpm fuel cut.

Txdragon

I didn't want to start a new thread but, with the new engine setup, Here is where I am for tuning pre-dyno. I won't get dyno time for another month, so I am hoping all is ok for now. Feels great, but still seems sluggish (for the setup) this is what I feel is due to tuning. I am certain I will see high 200 range at minimum, mid 300 at max (properly tuned).
Current setup:
D16Z6 with VTEC converted P06 ECU, Neptune RTP.
Omnipower 2.5bar map sensor
OsideTiger 440cc injectors
Walbro high pressure 255
Skunk2 pro series intake mani
Skunk2 70mm throttle body
Skunk2 Alpha lite con rods
ARP rod and head bolts
NPR PM6 pistons
felpro d-series head gasket (final compression should be 9.96:1)
CX racing T3/T04E .63 exhaust, .60 compressor
CX racing cast manifold
CX racing 38mm 8psi wastegate
Greddy RS-style bov
tube and fin FMIC

Highest boost I have seen so far is a tad over 9psi. I am backing down the boost controller a bit because I am going a bit higher than I wanted right now. I plan on tuning at 11psi. I just ordered a couple extra wastegate gaskets as I see a teeny little carbon track on the side right now. Means I got a gasket about to go.. Sigh.. I don't need a leak at the WG, this could be REALLY bad.. Anywho..

If anyone can look over my maps, I'd be happy to post them. See if there's any suggestions or whatever. Particularly surrounding my VTEC engagement. Turbo starts spooling about 3500 and i've set VTEC to kick in about 4400. Too soon? It feels pretty snappy but I don't want it too early. I've had it set way earlier and it felt like BLAH.. I've tweaked my fuel and such a bit more, I am around 12:1 afr a couple hundred rpm after VTEC kick. Timing is around 26 deg, boost pressure is 6psi at that point.

Thoughts?

2x0

Post em up! Are you datalogging your AFR? Tuning without can be very hit or miss, especially with higher HP and turbo where things can happen very quickly.

I would aim for 11.50 to 11.60 AFR anytime you are in boost. Start with about 1 degree of retard per pound of boost for pump gas.

I would say that VTEC engagement is too soon, keep it around 5500 and look at the injector pulse width when it crosses over. It should not jump or fall much while maintaining the same AFR from low to high cam.

Txdragon

thanks for the input! I'll post maps when I get home.

Txdragon

low cam fuel
low cam ignition
high cam fuel
high cam ignition

2x0

Looks pretty good, I would richen up the fueling like I mentioned earlier. Timing looks decent, check your spark plugs for any signs of detonation but otherwise it's hard to fine tune the timing without the help of a dyno.

Txdragon

Couple good highway runs today and I'm now settled in to what I will call my pre-dyno tune. I kept my VTEC still a bit on the lower end at 4800, 10psi of boost, I was at 11.6 afr and 17 deg on the timing. Current tune is not really torquey, but fast. She's a bit slow off the line, but she's got a hell of a long game lol! I kept up neck and neck with a charger RT today after the jump. He got about 2 cars ahead on the initial start and I caught him pretty quick and rolled right alongside. I am certainly happy where it sits right now. I am looking into getting rid of my boost controller for now and running on WG spring- 8psi, to avoid any overboost. I'll reinstall the MBC right before tuning as I want to tune between 10 and 12.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Again, it's best to let the tuner make the final decision what the final target boost pressures will be. .In the meantime, you can hook the boost controller up for now to make sure it is working properly. don't try to do it just before you arrive, that usually allows a "gremlin"to creep in.. Meaning that when something usually goes wrong, its right before dyno time, when your mind is all over the place trying to make sure everything is perfect. The tuner can determine whether or not its best to disconnect the controller at the time of the dyno.

You'll be fine. I'm glad you're thinking about your tuner. But you can't think for your tuner. Let him/her do their job when its time.

Txdragon

Understood.. I'm being a pansy about possible overboost. Hell, I JUST the other day started doing some WOT pulls and hitting 6k rpm. I've been taking some baby steps. I'm pushing the envelope a bit more each day though. Today, for instance, I did some hard pulls with a passenger. Baby steps. Lol! I guess that if something breaks, it's best it happen now than 400 miles away from home.

Txdragon

Reinstalled my boost controller and cranked it all way down, then gave it 2 clicks and I'll see where my boost lands. Should be between 10 and 12. I know I've held 9psi with no issue before I had to replace the dizzy. Adjusted my fuel a bit higher between 4 and 6k and brought my timing down about 3 degrees on both high and low cam maps. My timing at 10 psi should be between 14 and 18 btdc, a/f should be in low to mid 11s. I'll know for sure tomorrow morning.