Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

I'm running a 84mm Benson sleeved Type R with 9:7:1 CR and Mini ramhorn manifold.. TGA 6157 turbo. Skunk 2 half length radiator.

What are your all's engine coolant temperatures averaging?

What is too hot and what is normal for a turbo honda engine?

This weekend on a road trip for the first time.. Hondata s300 kicked a CEL for engine overheat.. The ECT was 230. I believe my engine overheat protection is set to 230.. My coolant needle was still reading right in the middle and didn't seem like the car was over heating.

I ran the heat for a few minutes and it dropped back down to 200-210 and cleared the CEL with the mobile app and it never came back on.

Also how about intake air temperature? What is too hot and what is average?

I'm just curious because this has happened on more than one occasion and the thermostat is new as well.

wunfstgsr

This is where i think the little things like a lower temp ECT switch and lower temp thermostate and radiator coolant chill addatives will really help out. I run all the MIshimoto stuff and im supercharged but still got them for piece of mind since i was replacing them anyway.

VegaS10

I'm running a B18B1 with a GAW kit. Skunk2 crx sized half rad and a 13 inch Spal pusher fan (someone here recommended) in my ef hatch.

According to my Autometer gauge, it runs around 190 once warmed up. The gauge cluster needle sits around 1/3 the way up on the temp. Keep in mind, I'm in an EF, and from what I've read, they are a bit harder to cool due to the cramped bay.

ls joker

go autoworks half size radiator and shroud, wrapped in gold foil
cheapy bwr fan
70/30, water/ blue honda fluid

i run between 182- 195.during pulls between 195-210. overheat set at 220.
IATs are between 90- 110.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

I can change those things with Hondata.. I'm wondering if possibly running some sort of additive would help.

I see around those same temps, but every once in a while it just decides to creep up to 230 and kick the CEL..

I'm running the Honda blue coolant as well.. Locally it's premixed so whatever ratio that is.

I'm wondering if the skunk 2 dual core radiator is just not big enough for my application? I'm using a slim fan from the parts store. I seen go autoworks offers a three row radiator, i'm wondering if this would help?

I want my ECT as cool as possible and I'm tired of kicking this check engine light on.

Also - Why does turning the heat on help cool the engine temperature down?

DC4KiD

iTrader: (4)

You're basically activating a second radiator when you turn on the heater. Hot air is drawn from the heater core to go through the vents.

OneBadTurboCRV

185 - 200 °F ECT depending on ambient temp while driving and idling. WOT pulls 195 - 205 °F with variables. Overheat temp set at 215 °F

IAT will vary with placements, inlet setup, and type of driving or idle length.

It sounds like your tune needs tweaking. You either need more or less timing in your cruising speed areas. I am assuming you don't have an EGT gauge? I am sure your EGTs are through the roof.

For normal cruising there is no reason you should see above 200 °F on your car IMO. The stock gauges absolutely can't be trusted, they only peg out after it's too late.

Aradin

Stock JDM H23A. Custom kit on 12psi. ~350whp. This is in a CD5.

eBay special triple core half size civic radiator with shroud and single 12" puller.
70/30 Distilled water/coolant with a whole bottle of Water Wetter.
172F thermostat. Mishimoto 1.3bar cap.
Settings in Neptune, Fan on above 190F under 40mph.

This time of year the average water temps are ~180F cruising. Oil temp stays within a few degrees thanks to H series oil cooler.
~185F during WOT pulls. Never sees over 200F ******* the crap out of it down backroads.
Never gets above 194Fish idling or sitting in traffic. Car actually struggles to completely warm up when it's cooler outside. Have to drive ~10 miles+ before it sees 180F.
Summer time, add 4-5 degrees to all temps.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

As you've probably noticed the OEM gauge in the cluster is worthless for monitoring actual coolant temps. Some form of external gauge would be much better.

Also try cutting your existing collar mixture with water wetter, Royal purple ice, etc.

I also believe your part throttle tune might need some cleanup (as already mentioned). Part throttle cruise shouldn't be putting that much heat into the coolant system unless you've got sky high EGTs during that time. It the system doesn't overheat under WOT but does at part throttle that's likely your answer.

ls joker

mire need to add some distilled water to that honda mix. i think the third row is heat soaked away by the time it gets there.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Thank you all for the replies.. I am in the process of buying a laptop as my tuners has bit the dust, so we will get some more street tuning in for sure.

It's as simple as draining some coolant out and adding the water wetter?

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Alright guys.. summer is here and it's 95 degrees in Knoxville and my car is still running HOT.

Engine coolant temperature seen 238 today and I had to pull over and let it cool down.. on the interstate the car will not stay cool.. I literally have to turn the heat on to cool the car.

I was thinking possibly thermostat related so I installed a brand new OEM Honda TSTAT and gasket.. drove it around.. same thing.

Could it be an air pocket?

What cooling additive do you all recommend?

I am considering trying a pusher fan

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Pusher isn't going to do anything but complicate the issue.

Skunk2 radiator is not the worst thing you can do, better than the Mishimoto..

Are you still on the Honda blue OEM coolant?, what mix %, what fan you're running on that radiator (including CFM used), as well as which intercooler you're running and let's see a picture of where everything is located in the bay; topical and frontal views.. (Yeah, yeah.. *chuckle, chuckle*) ..

Also need to know what your EGT levels are at cruising speeds with say.. 20% throttle on the highway. (Geez, does no one run EGT gauges anymore? just the "check plug" method now? )

How are you bleeding these systems? are you using a Lisle funnel with the car jacked up?

Let's see what's happening, because you're at dangerous levels already.

aeros

iTrader: (1)

Your fan might be faulty. Happened to me last year, once I swap over a new spal fan everything was resolved for me.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Honda blue coolant.. however it comes.. I believe it's 50/50. It's a Go autoworks intercooler.. IAT is around 120-135 it varies.. when the car is running hot they are through the roof. No I don't have an EGT gauge.. I know i need to get one very soon.

I didn't have the spill proof funnel today because it's at the shop.. I just left the cap off and let it bubble.. it's funny you mention that because today i noticed with the radiator cap off and the drain plug pulled it drained out real hard for a second and then just stopped.. i had to squeeze the hoses to get the coolant to start draining again.. made me think air pocket?

I can hear it on though and it's blowing air? I don't know what CFM fan it is.. I got it at the parts store years ago.. only because I do remember it was a decent CFM.

Here is picture of engine bay.. the radiator is pretty close to the manifold, but it has no where else to be mounted?


Thanks guys

2kdrift

funny how these issues keep coming up, when running a skunk2 rad wouldnt you say?
lol just messing with you

x2 on this make sure you bleed it well with it jacked up, you shouldnt really be driving it at these temps your at a very high level


I am currently running a Mishimoto 3 row with pusher fan, and it works great for me. I will try to post it up ander my recent radiator setups thread

misread the second part but the answer is its basically a second radiator so it helps to cool down the motor when your cooling system is overloaded or simply inadequate

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm thinking of the Intercooler type. Is it Go-Autoworks's Garrett core, or their standard core?

Very possible. You need to be consistent as to how you're draining and getting these bubbles out. IF you don't do it the standard way each and every time, you'll chase air pocket ghosts forever. So that means.

*Jack stands get the front into the air

* COMPLETE drain, and I mean, let the drain out and WALK AWAY. Have a cup of coffee, play some Halo, watch some ****, whatever.. But stay away until it's completely GONE out of there. No running engine, nothing. Let gravity do the work, then squeeze the rest out through the hoses.


* Get the Lisle funnel. For each and every time you do this. Have the correct adapter and ring IN PLACE before you perform even the 1st pour.

* Honda OEM coolant is FINE, (I personally Prefer Toyota Pink 50/50) but add a little Royal Purple ICE wetter to the mix (I actually prefer it over the Redline mix). Make it a 70% coolant 30% Purple Ice.

*Plug the drain, and add coolant to the radiator by way of the funnel, with the ENGINE OFF. Some use a turkey baster to to get the right amount of coolant out to pour in the wetter last, which is perfectly fine. Then replace the funnel WITH ADDITIONAL COOLANT ALREADY INSIDE THE FUNNEL after the radiator is full and start the engine, while keeping an eye on your ECT gauge or readout. If you don't have one, it's ok, but you're looking to make sure that the fans come on at their designated time.

Let the siphoning effect of the engine's water pump pull in any and all extra coolant from the funnel. You'll see a lot of bubbling when the engine starts to come to operating temperature. Don't panic. Once it draws in that extra coolant, make sure that funnel still has some in there, you don't want it empty or it will create a bubble. Once it stops drawing in coolant and bubbling, put the Lisel plug back in the funnel with coolant still there.

Let the fans cycle about 4 times before shutting off the engine.. Only use a little rpm to help it along before the fans come on the 1st time. After that 4th fan cycle, shut that engine off... wait about 5 minutes to see if it needs any more coolant, and THEN remove the funnel, and put the cap back on.

I know that this is the part that everyone here knows, but I've found that the best way to solve this is to do it IN ORDER, and BE PATIENT. Just when you think you want to say, "meh, that should be good enough"... Guess what? It isn't give it a few more minutes to get it all out.



-I'm more than sure your auto parts store fan is crap compared to what I'm recommending. You need a REAL fan to fit with this thing. SPAL or Zirgo at the MINIMUM. And no, the "part store" ain't gonna have 'em.. Gotta get it. Standard puller, more than likely the 13".

Remind me to check which SPAL fan is needed. I think I have a spare Skunk2 radiator around the lab. But when you get the SPAL, use at minimum a 40a fuse in your fan box, as this fan draws MAJOR voltage due to the CFM flow rate, and will dim your lights when activated. You can use a relay as well, and you'll never know the difference, but I think your fan just isn't doing the job.

DO NOT SET IT UP TO BE ON ALL TIME. LET THE OEM THERMOSTAT DO THE WORK.

Don't set **** in the S300. Treat this as though it is an NA build. Put it ALL back to stock.


The Radiator is in as good as a spot as it's going to be. But I do recommend Ceramic coating & thermal wrapping the exhaust manifold, blanketing the turbine housing of the turbo, and thermal wrap the downpipe itself. That will really help these ECTs every little bit.

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Alright.. I'll do it... My only concern about using a fan that pulls that strong of a current is I am running a odyssey pc680. I hope it's not too much.

Also how do you mount these fans as a pusher? The ties through the radiator? Can you link me to one?

Also if it is indeed the fan.. Why is the car overheating on the highway, with the highway wind speeds still not cooling it down?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ask 2kdrift about those pushers. I use a custom bracket for my fans.

With the car running, the alternator takes over, so you won't drain thelittle teeny Odessey battery with that 40amp fuse.

Something just isn't cycling cooler air into the engine's water jacket, by way of the radiator, intercooler, or possibly even the time, or a combination of all three.

You may have already compromised the head gasket already, and it's just burning a hot spot to where it will never get down. Perhaps head lift? Hard to say until you change the above and start from scratch

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Btw - It's their standard intercooler. I have a turbo blanket on my turbo as well.

One of the runners on the manifold is purple, could that mean that cylinder is getting hotter than the others, or am i just making **** up?

The engine has 1035 miles exactly and it never gets drove.. it just sits. I got it out the other day and it started warming up on the interstate.. I connected to the s300 via blue tooth and seen my ECT was rising a little eventually to 220+ and turned the heat on and cooled it down.. got to where I was going [short distance] and let the car sit... I certainly hope I don't have to replace the HG.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That runner shouldn't be distinctively hotter than the rest. Perhaps you need too have a second set of eyes (not mine) to see your tune. This may be affecting everything. It is entirely possible

2kdrift

which intercooler are you using?

I have the non garret core from go auto and my IAT's are only 95-105, however my IAT is in my charge piping if yours is in your IM that can get heatsoaked and give you an less then accurate reading

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

Just their standard IC.. not the beefed up one.. I believe it supports 400whp not 100% sure

I picked up some purple ice and followed the directions as posted.

I am going to give it a try tonight... However the settings have been changed in the s300 until I can get a better fan the fan is set to stay on at like 175 or maybe 180.

90civichbsi

iTrader: (1)

When my car was still a street car I did fine on an ebay half rad and 13" Spal puller fan in Texas heat. The fan kicked on at the stock 212 and dropped down to 195 till it turned off.

Get a Spal, wire it with a relay. Add a fan shroud and add ducting so the fan isn't pulling in the hot air from around the turbo. I even had a Koyo radiator and Flexalite fan before this setup that could not keep up. The Spal fan and ducting made all the difference.


A track car is going to need much more radiator, but you can make a half rad work for the street.

2kdrift

He has 3 different intercoolers, I believe they all use the same type of core just in different sizes.

I have the R intercooler like this