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This past weekend a few of us got together and put the cylinder head onto the block for Chris J's turbo build; it's been a while since i've seen a fresh block from the machine shop and it sure does look nice. It was good to get everyone together and work on a motor followed by bs and story telling lol. I also pulled out my car from the garage and did some measuring around the brake kit. I tried a 15 inch kosei k1 wheel but it seems very tight so more than likely this one won't work with my kit. I might be able to fit a 16" rpf1, so my plan is to order one as a test wheel. Once the HC rules come out and I know which class i'll race in, i'll then buy the rim for it since h2 only allows 7" wide wheels while h1 has no restriction. In a couple weeks i'm going to order the Koni race shocks and then remove my current Ksport coilovers and get the areas ready for the new suspension; I can't wait to actually run the car with something competitive.
How is CSS with road racing applications? I'm concerned that it will need a lot of extra cooling capacity but haven't actually done any events yet with this motor.
How is CSS with road racing applications? I'm concerned that it will need a lot of extra cooling capacity but haven't actually done any events yet with this motor.
What's CSS, Championship Cup Series for Motorcycle Racing? What set up do you have? From my experience racing cars whether you have a stock OEM motor, or a nice turbo build etc, running an efficient cooling system is important. It doesn't hurt upgrading your radiator/fan to a larger size to help keep engine temps down, especially when racing.
What's CSS, Championship Cup Series for Motorcycle Racing? What set up do you have? From my experience racing cars whether you have a stock OEM motor, or a nice turbo build etc, running an efficient cooling system is important. It doesn't hurt upgrading your radiator/fan to a larger size to help keep engine temps down, especially when racing.
CSS as in "Cylinder Support System" - it's installed in this K-Series block you put together.
I was curious to know what your setup was for cooling capacity as the sleeve design effectively reduces the flow rate and coolant volumes through the water jacket.
CSS as in "Cylinder Support System" - it's installed in this K-Series block you put together.
I was curious to know what your setup was for cooling capacity as the sleeve design effectively reduces the flow rate and coolant volumes through the water jacket.
Oh ok, and this was a B series block with the CSS system. I have only heard good things about it and it's a good alternative to having a block fully sleeved (Money Wise, and Durability). Also the little holes you see in the CSS guard are there to help with coolant flow. From speaking with drag racers or time attackers who use this, the operating temperatures under racing conditions reach the normal (190-210 degrees) and they don't seem to have any issues with overheating.
Oh ok, and this was a B series block with the CSS system. I have only heard good things about it and it's a good alternative to having a block fully sleeved (Money Wise, and Durability). Also the little holes you see in the CSS guard are there to help with coolant flow. From speaking with drag racers or time attackers who use this, the operating temperatures under racing conditions reach the normal (190-210 degrees) and they don't seem to have any issues with overheating.
Ah, I stand corrected. Didn't realize it was a B-Series block Thanks for the insight.
Over the weekend I finally ordered the Koni race shocks and I can't wait to get them in. My next move is to sell my K20a2 long block, put back in the base model K20a and switch my front hubs back to 4x100 so that I could down size to a 16x7 RPF1. The 2018 Honda Challenge rules came out and the revision for the base model K20a is that it's now allowed in the H2. This is what I was waiting for so now I know what specs to build my car to.
Koni/ gc is better than any full coilovers like d2, k sport, function form, yada yada. For their price they are great unless you want to spend like 2000 on some nice kws or custom set up you won’t beat them.
Koni/ gc is better than any full coilovers like d2, k sport, function form, yada yada. For their price they are great unless you want to spend like 2000 on some nice kws or custom set up you won’t beat them.
Exactly lol.
Originally Posted by Josip.
For how much I understand, Koni too has coilovers that are pretty great?
Koni has some coilover set ups but their race shock comes as a shock body only and you have to complete it with a coilover sleeve kit and top hat. Also reason behind purchasing these is that they are track proven and cheaper than your typical coilover set up that you see on the market. Koni is a shock manufacturer with roots in f1, touring car etc so when I had technical questions for them, they responded very quick and accurate and also aimed me into looking into their race shocks for the type of racing that I want to do. They were very helpful. Some of the other manufacturers don't have the same background so I don't know if their product is as good for that price and on top of that they never got back to me after multiple emails and voice mails lol.
When I was looking into getting Fortune autos, or ktuned etc I was in the $2,800-$4,500 range and that wasn't in my current budget. Plus after speaking with a few racers in SCCA and NASA they run the Koni race shocks and have very good feedback and reviews on it. This shock doesn't have an external reservoir so I also save some weight on the penalty that the HC class has for using that.
So I'm still waiting for my Ground Control top hats to come in so that I could pick up my suspension and get to work; the top hats were on back order but hopefully I should be getting them in the next 2 weeks. I was looking at this years event list and there are so many to choose from. I'd like to do a couple more local events and at least 1 long distance one so I think I came up with which ones i'll attend.
I decided to sign up for Gridlife round 4 on August 24th-26th at Road Atlanta.
I finally picked up my suspension from the parts store and now I just need to wait for some warmer weather to get to work. I'm excited to see what these Koni's can do and how much better my car will feel.
There's been a lot going on but finally i'll have some more time to get started on my own car. After next weekend i'll install the new shocks and set ride height, then I want to go over everything and get a tune. Last weekend we had some nice weather so I helped my friend Chris J get his motor together and drop it into his EK. Since the motor is in now, we can start taking measurements to figure out the intercooler piping and make some good sturdy brackets for the intercooler. There's still a lot of work that needs to get done on his car but we are aiming to have it ready by mid summer so we'll see how that goes.
This past weekend the team and I got together and worked on each others cars. On Marc's car (White hatch) Rob installed/wired another gauge on the panel he made for him. On Chris's car (Silver EK coupe) we installed some axles, bolted up his suspension and put on the Kosei wheels; we then rolled the car down the block just to get a picture (my idea lol). Kosei K1 wheels look good on any car . After we shot back to Rob's house and worked on his car (Silver EK hatch). Rob's car turns on and runs but for some reason his OBD port doesn't work when connected to a scan tool. We are trying to figure it out because without this working he can't get the car inspected to drive it legally on the street. We checked the port and it's getting power, ground and even signal. The signal wire is only giving off about 5 volts with the key on which I believe is normal from what I saw online and the power wire is giving off 12 volts. We did notice that the wiring behind the dash looks tampered with from the previous owner i'm assuming so we are going to remove the dash and look at a wiring schematic and go over everything to ensure that there's no cut or damaged wires and that everything is in the correct spot. I also decided to assemble my new Koni shocks; I got one done and then second one started off smooth and then jammed up. It seems that the shock diameter and the inside diameter of the ground control coil over sleeve are very close if not the same so they do not go on easily by hand (even with lube). I dropped the remaining 3 off at Anze Engineering to get the sleeves put on since they have hydraulic presses so once I get them back i'll install them on my coupe and set ride height.
I got the shocks back from Anze and got around to assembling them; should be installing them into the car this weekend. I also ordered new race pads for my Wilwood kit, new fuel tank straps and OEM gas, brake, and clutch pedal covers. My brake pedal cover wore out and after a few heel toes, the cover would start to slide off and it was getting annoying trying to push it back with my foot on straights lol.
This weekend the team and I wrenched on my car and Marc's car. We installed the Koni race shocks, Wilwood race pads for the front brake kit, and new OEM pedal covers for the clutch, brake and gas. The ground control top hats came with these sleeves that need to be used on each side of the bearing but for some reason 4 of the 8 sleeves were too small. I'm assuming that four of them were 10mm and the other four were 12mm because the shocks have a 12mm stem and the smaller ones weren't off by much but enough to not fit around it. We drilled out the smaller ones and opened up the bore to match the 12mm ones' which actually worked out well and everything fit properly afterwards. I also got around to test fitting the 16x7 rpf1 that I have. We swapped the passenger side knuckle with a 4x100 set up, then we installed the brake kit and put the wheel on with a spacer and the wheel just fits. The clearance is very close but I also noticed that once I change my hubs back to 4x100, I’ll be able to remove some washers I’m currently using to center the caliper and rotor; also the 4x100 rotor hat is a bit smaller in height than the 5x114.3 so the entire brake kit will shift or move away from the rims spokes. Another thing is that I’m planning on using 16x8 wheels so that should also help with fitting around this BBK that I’m using. I still need to set ride height and do a couple more things to have the car ready for a tune and then the event in August. I also had to get 17x7 wheels for the front just to fit on my trailer. This is temporary and I plan on getting a full car trailer to eliminate this hassle lol.
On Marc's car we installed his fire suppression system. A friend named Kallie (who currently races in the H4 group with Honda Challenge) came over and helped out since she already installed the same kit in her Integra. It's very straight forward and simple to install this kit, plus it looks awesome once it's all done.
This weekend I worked on my coupe and got a few more things done in preparation for Gridlife coming up in August. I changed out the old fuel tank straps and replaced them with brand new ones to ease my mind. I've seen too many eg's loose their fuel tanks at the track from excessive curbing so i figured i'd do some preventive maintenance. Funny enough, things don't always go easy and the passenger side strap gave me issues. There's two bolts, one that hooks into the frame and the other that bolts into the frame. I was loosening the one that bolts into the frame and it went from normal to oops real quick lol. I felt a snap and thought I broke the bolt but then realized it was still intact and spinning inside the chassis. I assumed there was a welded nut on the other side so I dropped my exhaust and got in there with a die grinder and cut a notch out to reach inside the frame. To my surprise there was some open box looking piece inside which would have had this welded nut on it but the nut broke off the weld and the nut was extremely rusted onto the bolt still. I sprayed WD-40 and tried grabbing it many different ways but nothing was working. Finally I decided to cut another notch inside the car to allow for a socket/extension. My friend Marc came by to help out and brought over his torch which made life a lot easier (I need to get myself one for the garage to avoid these scenarios lol). We torched the nut and once it was cherry red we loosened it up. We didn't take any chances on the other side so we torched it also and removed it without any problems. So my advice for anyone doing this is to get a torch and just save yourself hours of frustration lol. Funny thing is when Marc was heating up the nut, the heat actually caused this plastic piece under the car to catch on fire lmao. I ran inside to get some water but Marc ended up blowing it out; then we still put the water on it to cool it down. I used all new bolts/washers to avoid issues down the road with rust.
After this we set the ride height and test drove the car. During the test drive i was able to feel the shifter box since I never drove the car after we installed that months ago lol. I locked the coilover sleeves in place once the height was set and the car is sitting very nice right now. Only thing I noticed is that during left hand turns there's a rubbing sound coming from the wheel well. I believe I found where it's rubbing so I'm going to trim the fender/bumper tab from the inside and that should solve the problem. There aren't many things left on the car to do; I need a new battery, negative battery cable, 1 tie rod, and I want to recheck my front brake kit bolts. If I have time i'll tune the car but other than that we will be good to go.
Yesterday I trimmed my fenders/bumper on the inside wheel well area which fixed the rubbing sounds I was noticing when hitting bumps. Now when I drive the car it doesn't make any rubbing sounds so i'm sure its ready for some curbing lol. I also changed my negative battery cable which was actually broke near the battery post, the ring that goes around the post was cracked in half and loose (I'm sure this wasn't good). I got the car and brakes up to temp and started to ease into them to give them a little wear before the track event. I stopped by this parking garage that I used to hang out at which was the same location that I decided to make "Project One" many years ago; I took a few pictures realized that my car needs a wash desperately lol but I enjoyed taking it back out since I haven't driven it in over a year. I was backing the car into the garage and it shut off on me, I'm thinking what now my battery again? but this time I noticed the car doesn't crank. I checked the battery voltage and it was at 11.9, I changed my starter with a spare and nothing. I checked all the fuses for the battery/starter/ignition and ecu and nothing. The dash still lights up and my fuel pump turns on. I also double checked my grounds and same symptom still. After some more investigating i think my ignition switch went so I ordered a new one and will hopefully be installing it tomorrow. I need to get the car finished this weekend since we are going down to Atlanta in 2 weeks !!!!
12-27-2017, 10:35 AM
Re: EG Vera's build/timeline thread
Thanks for the insight.
. After we shot back to Rob's house and worked on his car (Silver EK hatch). Rob's car turns on and runs but for some reason his OBD port doesn't work when connected to a scan tool. We are trying to figure it out because without this working he can't get the car inspected to drive it legally on the street. We checked the port and it's getting power, ground and even signal. The signal wire is only giving off about 5 volts with the key on which I believe is normal from what I saw online and the power wire is giving off 12 volts. We did notice that the wiring behind the dash looks tampered with from the previous owner i'm assuming so we are going to remove the dash and look at a wiring schematic and go over everything to ensure that there's no cut or damaged wires and that everything is in the correct spot. I also decided to assemble my new Koni shocks; I got one done and then second one started off smooth and then jammed up. It seems that the shock diameter and the inside diameter of the ground control coil over sleeve are very close if not the same so they do not go on easily by hand (even with lube). I dropped the remaining 3 off at Anze Engineering to get the sleeves put on since they have hydraulic presses so once I get them back i'll install them on my coupe and set ride height.
