1993 acura integra gs-r here.
recently pulled the b17 for safekeeping

Heres what I'm working on and I need some guidance:

I put a b18b1 (along with gsr ys1 trans) in the car and picked up a cast top mount manifold made by SPA along with a Holset hx35 turbo
it fits just perfect and I'm using external wastegate tial 38mm
NOW... I'm getting a lot of "that turbo is huge it's going to blow for sure"

I'm planning to only run up to 10psi, and with the turbo not getting full boost up until 4.5 k rpm, I think it will be ok to drive on sundays around town and I'm hoping the block will hold 10psi well. I know it's not the same as 10 psi on a small turbo and that's what worrying me is I don't want to kill a rod in the first 100 miles.

Am i wrong ? Not looking to make crazy power yet but stock block on 10psi should be ok if driven conservatively. Need input and suggestions

i got the head resurfaced and used a cometic head gasket along with arp head studs.

As for the rest. All help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated

 

You should be fine as long as the engine is in good mechanical condition. You haven't mentioned you fuel system setup though. Make sure to upgrade the fuel pump and injectors and fit a boost reference fuel pressure regulator. What fuel do you plan on using ?

The key to keeping a stock engine alive under boost is a good experienced tuner. Conservative ign timing values and safe air/fuel ratios is what helps them live.

 

But why......



You wanted input/suggestions. That thing is never going to spool, the car is going to drive like crap. Get a properly sized turbo.

 

The hx35 is a little on the large side, but not by a lot with a B18B1.


It's not the worst combo in the world, but it can be improved. As stated, look at your purpose for the car, and get quality equipment and a tuner.

Most importantly, check those FAQs for Forced Induction at the top in grey. It's been extensively upgraded from before.

 

hx35 is like 54-56mm on the inducer and like 58-60 on the turbine wheel exducer not a huge turbo.He will hit full boost around 5k depending on turbine housing
and there it the problem at 12cm it will be okish on the bigger housing things start to become problem.
Did you trimmed the turbine housing divided wall on the flange with a dremmel or sth?

 

I guess I was mistaken about the size of that turbo then, my apologies.

 

Housing and physical size look massive compared to the wheels in the CHRA.

Still quite oversized, but not as bad as it may look at first glance.

 

 

 

You can always try track down a machined 0.63 open T3 housing if you ever wanted to improve response and keep your existing manifold etc - companies like Tim's Turbo and Turbolab used to offer this. As Balor said make sure you have the 12cm2 housing as anything bigger leads to poor performance and mismatched efficiencies.

I've used many of these on 1.8 - 2.5 litre engines and with a properly designed split-pulse tubular manifold they can 'outspool' a GT3076. With a Super HX40 I've seen 18 psi at 4200rpm on a 2 litre 4 cylinder Opel/Vauxhall engine but manifold design, runner size and cam timing are key to making a Holset turbo work optimally.

 

Yeah thats it.
If your turbo has too intakes on the turbine sise you manifold must be divided too, and the opposite. If not the gases from the t3 open willhit the middle wall and reduse efficiency.

Or you can trim the middle like this. If you dont want to mees with the turbine housing get an extra t3 divided flange and trim the flange.


If you have the money get a t3 open .55 a/r or a t3 open .70(for bigger power later) from bullseye power
https://www.bullseyepowerstore.com/p...a-r-dsmhousing
https://www.bullseyepowerstore.com/p...a-r-t3-housing

 

PM'd

 

 

Lookin good. With that manifold it is damn near forward facing.

 

One of the bests shots of this manifold.