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"You shouldn't need those extensions if your suspension is stiff enough."
Probably true, but these towers have been fixed twice already in the car's lifetime. I prefer to have those repairs cut out, and start fresh anyways. I cannot stand seeing those little dents and paint flake on the existing towers. I'm not swapping to any different upper control arms any time soon/ever either, so a little extra clearance insurance will make me feel better about driving the car on the interstates where bridge joints/seams are unavoidable.
I've always wondered what leads to dented shock towers and paint flaking. Is it too soft of front springs with aftermarket upper control arms? Or would factory control arms and too soft of springs lead to this too? I'm slightly embarrassed to say I have some dents and paint flaking likely due to poor choices in the past, but have never really been sure of what caused it. I've since changed springs/shocks but still have aftermarket adjustable upper control arms on there and I worry those are somewhat the culprit combined with my previous shock/spring setup. Hoping the new shocks/springs prevent additional issues, even with the aftermarket arms.
Sorry I missed this. Nah it's okay. I definitely appreciate your offer though. I'd rather test fit in person, and I'll just order one $18.00 rotor to do that. If that fits as it should, then I'll order nicer rotors and new 04 TSX pads. The current EBC Red Stuff pads are rotor killers, and I doubt they're TSX as the current rotors were re-drilled Lude rotors which I don't *believe* were as picky on exactly which model pads you ran.
Good deal. I would've made sure to have included pics, but you know what you're doing.
I've always wondered what leads to dented shock towers and paint flaking. Is it too soft of front springs with aftermarket upper control arms? Or would factory control arms and too soft of springs lead to this too? I'm slightly embarrassed to say I have some dents and paint flaking likely due to poor choices in the past, but have never really been sure of what caused it. I've since changed springs/shocks but still have aftermarket adjustable upper control arms on there and I worry those are somewhat the culprit combined with my previous shock/spring setup. Hoping the new shocks/springs prevent additional issues, even with the aftermarket arms.
The hitting of the upper arms against the undersides of the shock towers is a direct result of how much larger the arms are over factory. Skunk2 offers a lot of positive adjustment, but that's also why the surface area for those arms is so much bigger and flatter than OEM. Combine that with lower ride height, not crazy stiff springs/dampers, and literally BAM! Contact! I doubt OEM arms would hit unless you slizzammed like crazy.
Dude I dropped my car off yesterday at the guy who is doing the shock tower extensions/repairs and he lives in a mountainous area. I took him for a ride on a few of those roads, and HOLY **** it's amazing. My stripped 92 CX with B18C5 was fun and all, but this thing is ridiculous with the Potenza RE-11s, LSD, 4.7FD, and the BCs.
My very first test drive on the BCs was on full stiff, and honestly I was like "oh **** these ride like ****" and the front wheels even skipped under full throttle in gears 1-3. I pulled over and set them at half stiff (15 clicks from either stop) and one word - AMAZING. I'll work more on fine tuning it for ride vs. handling but thus far 15 front 16 rear (one stiffer) seems to be outstanding. I chose 12k/10k because my hatch is an Si, and I might have two kids in the back seat at any given ride so I needed something with less squat. I'd normally have gone opposite with like 12K/14K with the rears being stiffer, but if I want rotation I'll add a bigger rear bar that's adjustable. I do mixed highway driving to/from work so having the slightly "softer" rear was key for me. Seems to be working out ride quality wise too. I drove it on the interstate with my kids in the car, and no squat, no bounce, and they never complained. My wife has yet to ride/drive it though LOL! She'll be the judge.
Haha, yeah... wives, they can be so picky, even if they are the one to ride in the car the least lol...
I believe you said you are running 205/50R15, with a decent amount of side wall, so that should be a bit more forgiving than my 205/45R16, to make up for your high spring rates a little.
My integra is a slow daily, so sometimes on rough roads I wish I went 8k/5k, but when ever there is a round about or on/off ramp coming up I am so happy I didn't go softer.
I am thinking of of stepping up to 215/45R16 in more dedicated summer compound like the Falken Azenis RT615k.
I would love to step up to 225/45r16 or even 225/50r16 to really open up my tire options, for a more meaty look like you have going on and for additional stick, but I am not sure if it will rub.
The hitting of the upper arms against the undersides of the shock towers is a direct result of how much larger the arms are over factory. Skunk2 offers a lot of positive adjustment, but that's also why the surface area for those arms is so much bigger and flatter than OEM. Combine that with lower ride height, not crazy stiff springs/dampers, and literally BAM! Contact! I doubt OEM arms would hit unless you slizzammed like crazy.
Ugh, yeah I figured this was the cause. Since I'm running different shocks/springs now I may revert to an OEM upper arm. My drop is not much at all anymore and I love it so much better. Thanks for your thoughts on this. BTW...love what I'm seeing here, can't wait to see more!
Quick question about the recent re-install or pending re-install of a new S2K cMC (to try to prevent another 'S2K cMC into an EG' thread): did you have to add a rubber boot to the cMC shaft?
If you look at the the following thread (the only one with pictures of the install) https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...dc-eg-2830117/ it looks like the OP had to remove the nut and catch from the pushrod (or saw it, lol) of the OEM CMC in order to grab the rubber boot to reuse. Looks like the S2K CMC's don't come with rubber boots. This is on an Integra though, as I could not find a better thread for EGs specifically.
Ugh, yeah I figured this was the cause. Since I'm running different shocks/springs now I may revert to an OEM upper arm. My drop is not much at all anymore and I love it so much better. Thanks for your thoughts on this. BTW...love what I'm seeing here, can't wait to see more!
I went back to OEM upper arms and couldn't be happier. I have a fairly conservative drop and needed to get the alignment redone after going back to stock upper arms. From what I have read and experienced, I see no reason to go aftermarket/adjustable unless going for a big drop and/or extreme camber and have shock tower extensions like OP.
OMFG it's under the knife. Send positive vibes my way so it pulls through this surgery like champ!
So one key difference on mine is the guy doing mine said that usually people completely cut out the double walled portion of the tower where those two OEM strut bar mounting stud holes are, but that's structural. He knows I DRIVE my car so the first two pics here are how it's "usually done" then the ones after are how mine are being done:
I went back to OEM upper arms and couldn't be happier. I have a fairly conservative drop and needed to get the alignment redone after going back to stock upper arms. From what I have read and experienced, I see no reason to go aftermarket/adjustable unless going for a big drop and/or extreme camber and have shock tower extensions like OP.
Yeah, definitely doing this then. I have "lifetime alignment" so no big deal to take it in. Time to ditch these aftermarket arms!
OMFG it's under the knife. Send positive vibes my way so it pulls through this surgery like champ!
So one key difference on mine is the guy doing mine said that usually people completely cut out the double walled portion of the tower where those two OEM strut bar mounting stud holes are, but that's structural. He knows I DRIVE my car so the first two pics here are how it's "usually done" then the ones after are how mine are being done:
And mine:
What's really bothered me about that piece with the holes in it is that some 92-95 Civics don't have it (like mine, 94 EX Coupe). I am on a personal mission to see if there is a pattern (country of build, dates of build, etc...) where the towers didn't come with provision for the strut tower bar. Haven't gotten very far yet though. It's just curious to me that it's not the same for all trims/bodies throughout production since that area of the car would probably be the same no matter the body or trim or engine even. Anyway, it's always bothered me that mine doesn't have the holes because I want to run the OEM bar but don't have the provision. End rant haha.
Drill holes and use nuts to hold it in place. Other year Civic's don't have the holes but there are points on the shock tower that correlate to that spot. I doubt Honda made forming tools that did holes versus no holes. Probably a secondary operation added them in.
Drill holes and use nuts to hold it in place. Other year Civic's don't have the holes but there are points on the shock tower that correlate to that spot. I doubt Honda made forming tools that did holes versus no holes. Probably a secondary operation added them in.
Well right, that's the solution for me if I want to have it. My curiosity remains though. What do you mean by secondary operation? Something else on the line besides forming the towers? I don't think mine even has the receptacles shown underneath the skin of the sheet metal, it's just the sheet metal for the tower. Anyway, I don't want to hijack the thread here, so feel free to PM or maybe I'll start another thread.
Well right, that's the solution for me if I want to have it. My curiosity remains though. What do you mean by secondary operation? Something else on the line besides forming the towers? I don't think mine even has the receptacles shown underneath the skin of the sheet metal, it's just the sheet metal for the tower. Anyway, I don't want to hijack the thread here, so feel free to PM or maybe I'll start another thread.
my 94 ex was the same way, Mine was made in OHIO, vin starts with 1, I also had 2 hatches a 92 and 93, they were both made in canada and both had the holes, VIN started with 2. I think the USA made Civics, specifically the coupes didn't get the hole because non of the coupes ever came with the factory strut bar.
On my 94 ex I drilled the holes and added the factory bar.
Also my 95 LS had the holes and was made in Japan, VIN starts with J
my 94 ex was the same way, Mine was made in OHIO, vin starts with 1, I also had 2 hatches a 92 and 93, they were both made in canada and both had the holes, VIN started with 2. I think the USA made Civics, specifically the coupes didn't get the hole because non of the coupes ever came with the factory strut bar.
On my 94 ex I drilled the holes and added the factory bar.
Also my 95 LS had the holes and was made in Japan, VIN starts with J
Yep...pretty sure my EX is the same as yours. All of the hatches/sedans I have seen have the holes. The reason I am on a mission is that some 1993 Civic Coupes (first year for coupe) had them. 94-95 coupes seem to all not have them. And yeah, all Integras I have ever seen have the holes too. Anyway, I am on a quest to settle this if anything just for myself. Thanks for your info!
You have right at 14" to work with from the lca to the bumper for a muffler. The bubble butt just doesn't offer much room back there for a big muffler with a good amount of sound suppression. I didn't catch if you are using a resonator or not. I know Magnaflow offers a couple quality resonators that help knock off some decibels on the J-series motors. They get ungodly loud when you start altering the stock exhaust.
You can still use a OEM strut bar with GC or other aftermarket top hats. I'm doing it. A little massaging of the bar and it looks like it was designed that way.
I can vouch for this personally after purchasing and trying to fit a 15" long WS2 in the back of my EG hatch - does not fit. A 14" can will likely fit.
Re: I'm back in an EG.
