When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Aaawww ****! Car is nuts as **** now. LSD, 4.7FD, Acuity shifter springs, new synchos, bearings, seals, axles, second gear, clutch, flywheel, and the suspension all done. Unreal difference. Oh yeah and picked up NASTY midrange from a quick touch up on the tune from James at EBTEC. His tranny work and tune are PHENOMENAL!!!
Nice! Where you placing those jackstands in the rear?
Jacked up the whole rear with jack on tow hook, then stands fit under the rear jack points like usual.
the old coilovers lowering at all?
The Bilsteins? Yeah dude all of the pics of the car in this thread (before my most recent post today) are lowered on the Bilsteins. Sat perfectly, and rode so smooth. I just wanted stiffer suspension. They are perfect to drop in any EG as-is and it will sit perfectly like mine did in all the older pics.
Or are you referring to the lack of wheel sag when the *** is in the air? Those pics of zero sag are the new coilovers. The bodies are much shorter. The Bilsteins are longer so the wheels do sag when you jack the car up.
Jacked up the whole rear with jack on tow hook, then stands fit under the rear jack points like usual.
The Bilsteins? Yeah dude all of the pics of the car in this thread (before my most recent post today) are lowered on the Bilsteins. Sat perfectly, and rode so smooth. I just wanted stiffer suspension. They are perfect to drop in any EG as-is and it will sit perfectly like mine did in all the older pics.
Or are you referring to the lack of wheel sag when the *** is in the air? Those pics of zero sag are the new coilovers. The bodies are much shorter. The Bilsteins are longer so the wheels do sag when you jack the car up.
Okay, sorry, it looked like they were inboard of the rear jack points...
Did you shoot the video with a potato? LOL Nice work on the suspension/trans/tune Some day if I ever get your neck of the woods, You need to take me for a ride.
Oh man, what a beautiful car. I would drive it for sure. I don't even think I would change anything, at least not for a few months.
Thanks man. Yeah the next changes (probably in order)
- Have Downstar shock tower extensions welded in, smoothed over, sprayed to match bay. At the same time will have the holes shaved where the OEM strut brace studs would normally peek through since the towers make mounting a bar there not possible.
- Getting three rock chips on the hood filled while getting the shock towers done. There are three nasty chips almost in a perfect line a few inches above the bumper-to-hood body line. All three happened within two weeks of each other. The guy doing the towers and touch up is also hooking me up with an OEM half bra so I'll probably slip that on when I hard park this thing at meets, like Import Alliance coming up in ATL in a month.
- New front rotors. Mine are straight fucked. I knew they were at the service limit when I bought the car, because the owner literally turned them the day before I came to pick it up. I need to order one 2007 Mini Cooper non-S rotor from the local parts store (the cheapest **** they have) to test fit on my 11'' front set-up. I've read in a few places that's a direct-fit rotor for my set-up with dual piston Legend GS/NSX calipers so long as you have the right pads with the tapered edge.
- Front strut bar. My old EG never had one, and honestly I've never been one to think "strut bars make a HUGE difference y0!" but now the bay looks naked without one since I've removed mine in anticipation of getting the towers welded up. It will be a simple tie from tophat to tophat. Maybe a PW JDM or even PLM since they offer wrinkle/matte black. I know PLM is a knock off brand, but I gives a ****.
Longer term goals would include either aftercooling this M62 blower (Merc Racing comes to mind) and getting a ground up, full retune or quite possibly selling one of my other Hondas and going with the TVS 1320 upgrade as mentioned before. I'm not in a hurry to do any power adding mods though, because honestly it RIPS on the street as-is, and I can power through a turn without any major drama or wheel spin now with the sus and LSD.
Originally Posted by Chance EG
Such a perfect EG
Thanks dude. It was like 90% perfect when I got it. Anything I've upgraded or even fixed was fully anticipated when I bought it almost 6 months ago. The owner/builder and I discussed the clutch being a piece of ****, the lack of LSD, and that the suspension/coilovers on it were great for DD use but not for any tracking. The only things that ever bothered me about it was the Comp Clutch sprung hub disc being ratchety as hell, the T.O beating always making the slightest noise every time you clutched out to take off, and the car squatting with my family in it due to softer spring rates. All that is fixed now. It's a complete car.
Originally Posted by Clayton
Did you shoot the video with a potato? LOL Nice work on the suspension/trans/tune Some day if I ever get your neck of the woods, You need to take me for a ride.
I shot it with my Pixel, which actually normally takes really good videos. The problem was this was at night, and poor lighting from one source in the dyno garage. Come to Import Alliance in March. I'll give you a ride.
Originally Posted by ShinsenTuner
Tom coming with the heat. Love it.
Well it falls short of all the truly insane builds I see these days in terms of under body being clean enough to eat off of, 500whp+, $4,000.00 wheels, external reservoir Motons, etc. etc. For the amount of money I have in it though, and for how totally complete it is as a street car I cannot complain. I'm doing what I can to make it "mine" but it takes time. Takes money too. I'm not used to spending chunks of cash on fixes/upgrades because even with my silver EG I built it in 2002, and literally changed only the hood/duckbill/wheels in 2003 and then never touched ANYTHING again unless it was breaking a few trannies.
Thanks man. Yeah the next changes (probably in order)
- Have Downstar shock tower extensions welded in, smoothed over, sprayed to match bay. At the same time will have the holes shaved where the OEM strut brace studs would normally peek through since the towers make mounting a bar there not possible.
- Getting three rock chips on the hood filled while getting the shock towers done. There are three nasty chips almost in a perfect line a few inches above the bumper-to-hood body line. All three happened within two weeks of each other. The guy doing the towers and touch up is also hooking me up with an OEM half bra so I'll probably slip that on when I hard park this thing at meets, like Import Alliance coming up in ATL in a month.
- New front rotors. Mine are straight fucked. I knew they were at the service limit when I bought the car, because the owner literally turned them the day before I came to pick it up. I need to order one 2007 Mini Cooper non-S rotor from the local parts store (the cheapest **** they have) to test fit on my 11'' front set-up. I've read in a few places that's a direct-fit rotor for my set-up with dual piston Legend GS/NSX calipers so long as you have the right pads with the tapered edge.
- Front strut bar. My old EG never had one, and honestly I've never been one to think "strut bars make a HUGE difference y0!" but now the bay looks naked without one since I've removed mine in anticipation of getting the towers welded up. It will be a simple tie from tophat to tophat. Maybe a PW JDM or even PLM since they offer wrinkle/matte black. I know PLM is a knock off brand, but I gives a ****.
Longer term goals would include either aftercooling this M62 blower (Merc Racing comes to mind) and getting a ground up, full retune or quite possibly selling one of my other Hondas and going with the TVS 1320 upgrade as mentioned before. I'm not in a hurry to do any power adding mods though, because honestly it RIPS on the street as-is, and I can power through a turn without any major drama or wheel spin now with the sus and LSD.
Thanks dude. It was like 90% perfect when I got it. Anything I've upgraded or even fixed was fully anticipated when I bought it almost 6 months ago. The owner/builder and I discussed the clutch being a piece of ****, the lack of LSD, and that the suspension/coilovers on it were great for DD use but not for any tracking. The only things that ever bothered me about it was the Comp Clutch sprung hub disc being ratchety as hell, the T.O beating always making the slightest noise every time you clutched out to take off, and the car squatting with my family in it due to softer spring rates. All that is fixed now. It's a complete car.
I shot it with my Pixel, which actually normally takes really good videos. The problem was this was at night, and poor lighting from one source in the dyno garage. Come to Import Alliance in March. I'll give you a ride.
Well it falls short of all the truly insane builds I see these days in terms of under body being clean enough to eat off of, 500whp+, $4,000.00 wheels, external reservoir Motons, etc. etc. For the amount of money I have in it though, and for how totally complete it is as a street car I cannot complain. I'm doing what I can to make it "mine" but it takes time. Takes money too. I'm not used to spending chunks of cash on fixes/upgrades because even with my silver EG I built it in 2002, and literally changed only the hood/duckbill/wheels in 2003 and then never touched ANYTHING again unless it was breaking a few trannies.
I can vouch for this 11" brake setup:
2000 ITR/Prelude calipers and brackets
2004 TSX pads
2007 Mini Cooper 11" (260mm) rotors
All that ^^^ bolts right up together.
BUT I'm thinking that the NSX dual piston calipers use different sized pistons and are meant to mount differently on the NSX than they would be on the Civic.
2000 ITR/Prelude calipers and brackets
2004 TSX pads
2007 Mini Cooper 11" (260mm) rotors
All that ^^^ bolts right up together.
BUT I'm thinking that the NSX dual piston calipers use different sized pistons and are meant to mount differently on the NSX than they would be on the Civic.
I've already got the Legend GS dual piston (same as NSX without the NSX logo embossed) calipers. Everything fits just fine, but the rotors on there now are some sort of 11'' rotor re-drilled 4x100. I am looking for 100% bolt-on rotors, and the Minis you mentioned are what I'm looking at. The current brake set-up has been on the car for years - i just need to replace the rotors now, and don't want re-drilled ones.
I've already got the Legend GS dual piston (same as NSX without the NSX logo embossed) calipers. Everything fits just fine, but the rotors on there now are some sort of 11'' rotor re-drilled 4x100. I am looking for 100% bolt-on rotors, and the Minis you mentioned are what I'm looking at. The current brake set-up has been on the car for years - i just need to replace the rotors now, and don't want re-drilled ones.
I gotcha. Would you like for me to measure my rotor's backspacing and thickness before you buy some?
BC Racing Coilovers, niccce.... I just put a set on my Integra while doing an over haul of the front bushings/balljoints/tie rods/etc, plus the ITR/Mini brake upgrade and I am finally starting to love my car. I went with the standard drop in 10k front/ 6k rear rates, what spring rates did you go with? Not sure if I am reading the springs right, looks like you went with 12k front/ 10k rear? Jesus, that car is going to track like it is on rails! lol
I gotcha. Would you like for me to measure my rotor's backspacing and thickness before you buy some?
Sorry I missed this. Nah it's okay. I definitely appreciate your offer though. I'd rather test fit in person, and I'll just order one $18.00 rotor to do that. If that fits as it should, then I'll order nicer rotors and new 04 TSX pads. The current EBC Red Stuff pads are rotor killers, and I doubt they're TSX as the current rotors were re-drilled Lude rotors which I don't *believe* were as picky on exactly which model pads you ran.
BC Racing Coilovers, niccce.... I just put a set on my Integra while doing an over haul of the front bushings/balljoints/tie rods/etc, plus the ITR/Mini brake upgrade and I am finally starting to love my car. I went with the standard drop in 10k front/ 6k rear rates, what spring rates did you go with? Not sure if I am reading the springs right, looks like you went with 12k front/ 10k rear? Jesus, that car is going to track like it is on rails! lol
Dude I dropped my car off yesterday at the guy who is doing the shock tower extensions/repairs and he lives in a mountainous area. I took him for a ride on a few of those roads, and HOLY **** it's amazing. My stripped 92 CX with B18C5 was fun and all, but this thing is ridiculous with the Potenza RE-11s, LSD, 4.7FD, and the BCs.
My very first test drive on the BCs was on full stiff, and honestly I was like "oh **** these ride like ****" and the front wheels even skipped under full throttle in gears 1-3. I pulled over and set them at half stiff (15 clicks from either stop) and one word - AMAZING. I'll work more on fine tuning it for ride vs. handling but thus far 15 front 16 rear (one stiffer) seems to be outstanding. I chose 12k/10k because my hatch is an Si, and I might have two kids in the back seat at any given ride so I needed something with less squat. I'd normally have gone opposite with like 12K/14K with the rears being stiffer, but if I want rotation I'll add a bigger rear bar that's adjustable. I do mixed highway driving to/from work so having the slightly "softer" rear was key for me. Seems to be working out ride quality wise too. I drove it on the interstate with my kids in the car, and no squat, no bounce, and they never complained. My wife has yet to ride/drive it though LOL! She'll be the judge.
I dropped the car off to get the Downstar Shock tower extensions installed, and some rock chips airbrushed away:
"You shouldn't need those extensions if your suspension is stiff enough."
Probably true, but these towers have been fixed twice already in the car's lifetime. I prefer to have those repairs cut out, and start fresh anyways. I cannot stand seeing those little dents and paint flake on the existing towers. I'm not swapping to any different upper control arms any time soon/ever either, so a little extra clearance insurance will make me feel better about driving the car on the interstates where bridge joints/seams are unavoidable.