Is anyone working on something similar

 

Did you put the correct valve springs in yet?

 

I have another engine with a lot less miles off an automatic and another tranny In my garage so im just gonna keep reving it till it blows, my care doesn’t smoke at high rpm so I doubt it has floating valves yet at about 8500 rpm Is when it smoked nasty and loose power all off a sudden so now i just rev it to 8

 

 

That quote is sig worthy.

 

I can't understand how you keep pouring money into the engine without fixing things that are obviously wrong and saying F' it, I'll just put another one in when it blows up. Why not just do it correclty?

 

Lol I am still trying to figure out what the smoking at high rpms has to do with floating valves...
Is he trying to say that the valves don't float until 8500, so he set the limiter to 8000 and thinks thats okay?

https://thmotorsports.com/i-149148.a...RoCgAsQAvD_BwE
Seriously.... just upgrade the valvetrain lol

 

Rocket sells a set with more reasonable seat pressures that work with stock retainers too. The crower and BC ones are very unnecessarily aggressive for the lift that the 403s make and make me nervous with the P75 head’s tendency toward sinking exhaust valves.

 

I want to build a p8r head and I don’t have money right now to spend on the valve springs that’s the main reason why I haven’t done it yet I might get around to it around February but for now i should lower my redline to 7000 to be safe

 

That sounds like a better idea.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why tf are you running a 2" exhaust?
You don't have money for valve springs, but you bought a turbo kit?
This is such an odd form of autism....

 

Legend has it he's running 1,000 hp and 15,000 rpm on stock valvetrain.

 

and breathing through a straw...

 

Hmm, very interesting! Back in my day I had almost the same setup but I had 404s with springs & retainers. It was in a 1993 DX Hatchback and paired with a B16 tranny. Best I ever did in the 1/8 mile was a 8.80 with 14 inch slicks.

 

 

 

Do you have some weird form of autism that doesn't allow you to read or comprehend anything? It's like you are blindly talking to yourself and ignoring every word of advice from everyone on this website.
Anyways, lets start fresh. You want to build a b18b that is safe at 300whp and 8000 rpms?
Assuming that your valve guides/seals/, rod/main bearings, cylinder walls and piston rings are okay, really you would just want to upgrade the:

Valve springs
Install ARP rod bolts and Head studs
Install a new oem head gasket

Then you should be okay. The factory LS internals are okay up to about 300whp with good tuning (stay conservative on the ignition timing, boost and AFR). ARP rod bolts and head studs should give you some extra insurance.
If you want to really be safe and do it right (not a snow ***** chance in hell, the way this thread has been going lol), I would:

Refresh the cylinder head (Resurface, valve job, light porting, new guides and seals and a hot tank).
Hone the cylinders, clean up the pistons, then rering the pistons with a slightly bigger ring gap.
Clean up the rods and have them shot pinned.
New oem and color matched main and rod bearings, with slightly larger tolerances.
New oem water and oil pump, new oem timing belt and new oem gaskets and seals.
New oem spark plugs (1 step colder and properly gapped) and new oem wires/cap and rotor.

I would imagine that engine being fairly safe at 8000 rpms and 300whp. If you want to push further than that, you will need to go forged internals and even further you will need to upgrade and or reinforce the sleeves.

 

It cracked some ring lands from running lean and too much timing but my new engine has been fine after about 50 plus pulls and a couple of two hour trips it been running about 11 psi occasionally and 9-10 daily the tune is a lot better and rev limit is alot lower as well https://youtu.be/lRVr0hRbUkA