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I was itching to see if the wheel was the correct spline count, so I went ahead and mounted it today. I'm ordering the EF shoe horn to get my horn working, but I'm currently looking at the ETM to see how I can wire up the cruise control switch without the cable reel in the loop. Worst case scenario? Plug the cable reel back in, zip tie it under the dash, and mount the cruise control switch under the kick panel where I can still reach it.
So...after looking at the 1994 Civic ETM, the cable reel, and the cruise control switch I believe I've determined that the easiest way for me to retain cruise with this non-SRS wheel (or any aftermarket wheel if you're wondering) is to plug the cable reel back in, and simply secure it under the dash with enough lead to place the cruise set/resume/accel/decel switch somewhere within reach if needed.
"Why don't you make a sub harness?"
Well a few reasons:
- I cannot figure out which of the 6 wires on the dash harness side of the cable reel/clock spring connector go to exactly which components that get power from the cable reel. It has a connector for the airbag, horn, and cruise switch. The connector for the entire cable reel is non color coded wiring that all flat ribbon, so I cannot even manually trace them to each component.
- The ETM doesn't break down the connectors by wire color or anything because the circuit is designed for the cable reel to provide the signals, period.
- The actual connector on the cruise switch is also a ribbon, so I cannot even extend its wiring. (Maybe a different cruise switch would have a standard non-ribbon connection for which I could extend? This still doesn't solve the issue of knowing which wires in the dash harness provide which signals to the cruise switch.)
Here's a few pics to illustrate my points:
So now I've got about this much length, plus whatever slack I can pull out of the dash harness side of the connector for the cable reel, to work with when trying to mount the cruise switch. The bigger issue is that there is pretty much ZERO slack from the cable reel connector to the switch itself, so all of my lead will come from the long ribbon cable, and the switch must be mounted pretty much in the same location as the bulky-*** cable reel.
I'll be attempting this today, and will report back. I know this is a very specific use case, and most people either never had cruise to begin with, or it's one of those things people actively strip out to save weight/clean up their bay. This car has literally every single thing functioning though, and I want to keep it that way. The easy way would be to strip it, but I'm not going that way.
Good luck with the cruise control. I almost never use cruise in any car, ever, so I had no qualms with just deleting the SRS/Cruise system entirely from my car when I swapped the wheels. Unless I'm literally on a highway for 100+miles I never touch cruise, and even then I normally shut it off after only a few minutes...
I think it's pretty rare, but I know there was an OEM option in certain Honda markets to have cruise control on the center console, where those two small rectangular tabs normally are. Actually now that I think about it those tabs may be for the OEM heated seats (super rare, I think only super north Japan had these), but people have used that location for cruise control set, accel/decel...
Good luck with the cruise control. I almost never use cruise in any car, ever, so I had no qualms with just deleting the SRS/Cruise system entirely from my car when I swapped the wheels. Unless I'm literally on a highway for 100+miles I never touch cruise, and even then I normally shut it off after only a few minutes...
I think it's pretty rare, but I know there was an OEM option in certain Honda markets to have cruise control on the center console, where those two small rectangular tabs normally are. Actually now that I think about it those tabs may be for the OEM heated seats (super rare, I think only super north Japan had these), but people have used that location for cruise control set, accel/decel...
It just makes me uncomfortable for some reason, always has. Even things like cruise control, ABS, Traction Control make me feel like the car is less predictable and responsive to my inputs, and I just don't really like that. I'm a bit **** when it comes to those things though, not just with cars. Control freak lol.
new to the thread. This is an insanely spectacular EG! No corners cut in any way, top of the line quality build. Very nice pickup for 10K! Subscribed and can't wait to see what's coming for this beauty....
I’m actually looking to get back into a DC or EG, hence how I found you on the NWP FB group. I totally thought some asshat took your photos and put it up. I was the guy who commented about your user name. I’m still drooling over this new hatch of yours.
Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2
Honestly dude, at my age and where I'm at in life I give ZERO ***** about the "bought vs. built" argument, and having to feel "guilty" for buying someone else's 99% complete car. If you're capable of building one well, then you're capable of buying one that's well sorted, and won't end up being a piece of **** in disguise. If you have the time, tools, money, and space to build one then that's awesome too. I see it as I saved myself at LEAST $10,000.00 and over a year's worth of down time that would have tied up my garage, caused numerous tows to and from a body shop, dyno tuning, etc. etc. "The fun is in the build" has actually never been my mantra. After I built my silver hatch in 2002 I drove it in the exact same state for TEN YEARS and simply enjoyed DRIVING it.
If you're looking for specific models, etc. let me know because I come across some really nice ones from time to time just browsing mostly FB groups such as NWP4LIFE and K20A.org.
This thing is perfect. I love the wiring job and being a (former) 12v installer, its just beautifully well done. The fact that the immobilizer and everything else still works is fantastic.
There always is the 4 prong non srs cruise control 92 wheel. I managed to get one on craiglist from a local guy a couple of years ago as I was planning on adding cruise to my 95 non srs cx hatchback.
He had the cluster apart to remove the SRS light, and replace it with the immobilizer indicator from the RSX cluster. It's not a mod I'd do myself normally, but I must admit it looks good.
Sometimes Wow is the only word that works. Spectacular find. Spectacular car. Definitely one of the best Civic hatches ever done, plus super classy. Total fan of double wishbone '90s Civics. Nothing on the road was as much fun to drive, as balanced or as reliable. I still have my '93 Civic Coupe EX-O with a humble 126 hp 1.6L that spins to 7200 rpm and has the sweet manual that made Honda famous. And it does have that "funny" pattern interior material. My sister bought a '93 Si hatch covered in Aztec Pearl. Super car. She sold her's for some reason that didn't make any sense and wishes she'd kept it. Had her CRX stolen a little over a year ago. She should have had an immobilizer installed. Enjoy your hatch, but keep it well protected. You have a very special car.
I really appreciate the kind words. It's awesome to see the car invoking find memories for people.
I've been lazy, and have yet to sort the horn/cruise. I will do it, but my latest effort was to lower the wifey's Sport hatch. Certainly a much different install than the double wishbone Hondas I've done a million times.
Yeah probably Carey Paul. Life sucked right about then.
Haha! Well it looks like it all paid off.
Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2
Well it started off as a hunt for a new FK8 Civic Type R. After looking for a bit, and REALLY considering trying to DD a limited production car with 20'' summer tires I decided I'd rather get my wife a brand new Civic Sport, and use the difference to buy a badass EG. That's exactly what I did, and I have zero regrets. Not throwing shade on the FK8, but this thing is way faster, still has all the comfort features, plus a moonroof. I know it's not nearly as safe, nor is it the same overall driving experience as the FK8, but for my personal uses the EG is much, much more enjoyable to me. Once I add the PIC coilovers, and the LSD with shorter FD it will be literally perfect in every way to me.
Interesting. Makes a lot of sense, and it sounds like everyone is happy with the purchases
Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2
Yup! Landed this job as a temp about six years ago, and out of twelve or so people hired at the same time as temps I was the first of six to get "converted" into a full time position. I was forced to sell off my silver B18C5-EH2 while I was a temp making **** money. They told me I was being converted to full time a few weeks after I sold that hatch to pay for some home repairs that ended up not being as dire/critical as once thought. I think it worked out exactly as it was supposed to though.
Awesome, dude. Congratulations and all the best looking forward. I actually thought you sold the silver hatch because of lost interest, but it is interesting to know the situation you were in.
Nice job looks great. I built mine very much the same back in the day (late 90's). Are those EK side views? If they are I recall putting them on my EG back in the day because I refused to cough up the $ for the spoon ones. Back in the day I was the only one running around with one seat, fully gutted hatch with no AC in freakin south florida.
Well, a bunch of parts are on order/paid for and in route. I'm pretty stoked.
Transmission/drivetrain build:
- DC5 ITR LSD
- 4.76FD (current is 4.38)
- SynchroTech master rebuild kit with all carbon synchros, bearings, seals
- New OEM Honda second gear/sleeve set (trans has 155K and only just started popping out of second after a downshift, then getting on/off the gas)
- Exedy stage 1 clutch (got over a dozen first-hand experience recommendations from guys making more torque than I am in a supercharged Honda group - they swear by it)
- ACT Streetlite flywheel (11.5lbs. nothing insane)
- Insane shafts 500hp rated axles
- New OEM S2000 clutch master cylinder
- New OEM slave cylinder
- Amsoil synchromesh
BC Racing DR (Digressive piston) full coilover with custom rates. 12K/10K or 672lb./560lb. From their website:
"BC Racing Coilovers NEW DR Series is perfect for street driving and occasional road course duty. With easily accessible adjustment ***** for fine tuning your compression/rebound and separately adjustable ride height, having a performance coilover system couldn’t be any easier. You choose how low or high you want your vehicle, no preset ride height here, and patented concave lower locking ring keeps it locked in. Ride height is adjusted by raising and lowering the shock body; this maintains the same ideal damper stroke at ALL ride height levels for the best ride under any conditions. The pillowball mount option provides the most available feedback possible from your suspension and to sharpen your steering response. All this while providing a strong, attractive looking coilover system.
The DR series BC Racing Coilovers use a large 44mm diameter piston in a 53mm diameter damper body to maximize oil capacity. As the damper unit operates the oil contained within heats up. The viscosity of oil changes as it's temperature varies which can lead to changes in the damping characteristics of the unit.
BC Racing Coilovers use a very high quality oil with their coilovers but go that extra mile to maximise performance and build their BR range with a large 53mm diameter damper body. This increases the capacity of the unit which increases the volume of oil which in turn reduces the peak temperature and significantly improves damper performance."
Normally I'd go with rear-biased/stiffer springs for rotation, but I am going for a bigger rear swaybar to add rotation if needed instead. It's already going to be pretty stupid stiff for daily driving, so any little added "softness" in the rear will help the ride a bit. I plan on grabbing a Progress rear competition adjustable 22mm sway bar/crossmember reinforcement kit.
With the new sus, LSD, and shorter final drive this thing will be an entirely different beast on the street.
Last edited by B18C5-EH2; Feb 7, 2018 at 04:57 PM.
Re: I'm back in an EG.
