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Hello everyone, i have been doing some research on the forums for a while now and i have to say this site has a ton of great information and i have been lucky enough to find a thread for just abouth anything ive searched for. That being said over the last little while i have created a list of what i think will be a nice reliable build that will get me to my goal of 300 whp and i was just looking for any advice as to if this build actually looks reliable or if there are any better alternatives to any of the parts ive chosen and what their postives and negatives would be. Really any input at all would be great
first off i want to say that i want this to be an all out performance car. It is only going to be driven on the track so as long as its not harming the engine I really don't care for things like fuel economy poor idle, emissions pretty much anything that a daily driver would care about. I really just want to get the most performance possible from this engine within a budget of $5000
anyways below is the list of parts that i have chosen
Car is a 1993 del sol si 170k Block
D16z6
vitara pistons
Eagle h-beam rods .
Acl bearings
Head
D16z6
Port and polish ( is this really necessary?)
Arp headstuds
Turbo kit
Turbo ebay .63 ar 50 trim any advice here? I care more about it spooling up quickly.
Tial 38mm wastegate
Tial 50mm BOV
Oil catch can
Ramhorn turbo header
2.5 exhaust
Mishimoto radiator
Mishimoto z-line intercooler
Fuel system
Wahlbro 255lph fuel pump
Grams 650 cc injectors
Aem Fuel regulator
Aem Fuel pressure gauge
Aem Fuel rail
Ecu
P28 chipped with Hondata s300
All input and advice is appreciated thanks in advance!
Last edited by 93DelslowSI; Dec 10, 2017 at 07:04 AM.
Don't forget ARP rod bolts, as well as a clutch. I'd highly recommend getting a full kit from a reputable manufacture (Plug for Go-Autoworks as always, look at their street kit). Don't waste your time with eBay parts, ever. Especially on a turbo build.
You may need a y8 head gasket, and the port and polish isn't "necessary". Unless your running some kind of intake manifold that you need to make the runners match on. Or port the intake manifold if you were running a weird throttle body. Otherwise its still not a bad idea as it can net some power gains if done correctly. With 170k on it, a hot tank and polish would be good therapy for the head. The OEM PCV system doesn't really do a great job and tends to spray a decent amount of oil/gas/carbon down the intake manifold. So now that you have a catch-can, hot tanking that mani and getting a fresh start also wouldn't hurt.
Checked out the go-autoworks kit. Looks like a great deal and way easier than trying to peicie it all together from different sources so thanks! Fuel wise I would like to run e85 but cant seem to find a gas station that sells it so until I'm able to find one it looks like I'll be using 91/94 octane. Didnt know I could get hondata to install the chip for me! I really like the hood exit exhaust idea and I will definitely be doing the hot tanking or something similar. What is the reason for the y8 head gasket?
For a track car, I'd say the benefits of e85 are well worth it, even if you gotta drive across town to fill up a few gas cans every month to keep on hand. If not street driven you won't go thru that much of it. Where are you located?
But if you do go e85, I'd maybe get some 1000cc injectors.
From what i understand a Y8 head-gasket is a 3 layer improved design over the Z6 gasket for better reliability. It is also ever so slightly thinner, giving you a subtle bump up in compression.
Thanks for the advice! Located in kitchener Ontario
The top mount is a horrible idea for auto x. I think that 2x0 believes that you intend top go to the drag strip, not cone dodging.
Use the smaller GT28 series turbo to take the punishment that auto x is going to give you.
Find better pistons
than that old vitara nonsense and give the car some good static compression. (Otherwise you'll be at 7.8:1 static compression).
Stay with the go-autoworks kit and stay away from eBay.
Last edited by TheShodan; Nov 9, 2017 at 07:21 PM.
Not doubting your expertise, but just for our own knowledge why is a top mount bad for autocross?
top mounts are made with 1.75" longer primary runners that take the longest travel to the exhaust manifold of the turbo. This cause a huge lag condition which is not what you want for something as Autox or circuit racing. Quickly stated, having larger exhaust runners may help with exhaust VOLUME, but because of the longer length and size of the exhaust runner, it hurts exhaust energy VELOCITY. Higher exhaust velocity is what is needed in order to keep a turbocharger responsive especially when using partial throttle as part of your steering control in tight courses or "cone dodging".
Top mounts are designed for one thing, and one thing only. Drag racing. Where exhaust volume is needed for much larger turbos that are concentrated on the use of Top End PEAK power, not lower end, or mid-range power where an autox or circuit racer would need it. The OP would be the last out of the gate, and even with a smaller turbocharger, would still change the entire behaviour of the turbo and the car using this inefficient system for the type of racing this person plans on doing.
The section in FI called "Which manifold is right for me?" in the FAQs goes into this phenomenon further.
Thanks for the advice guys! Decided im going with a log mani as i think kt will last longer than a ramhorn style. If you think the vitaras arent a good option could you please recommend me some pistons you trust?
What would you recommend for turbo sizing for quickest spool rate to reach 300whp my options are 28/67......28/63.......28/60 or a 30/76
Try to Learn the naming conventions of Garrett turbos. It isn't difficult. The larger the 1st set of numbers, the larger the turbine family. Big turbine=slower response. The second set is the compressor wheel exducer size. Best response is smaller.
You'll need the turbine housing to be a T3 to fit the log manifolds properly. Stay about .63a/r.. No larger.
Use a forged piston keeping you up to over 10.0:1 static compression. That is best for when you are off-boost between gears and such. Don't fall for the "lower compression is better for boost" nonsense. It is a fallacy.
Last edited by TheShodan; Nov 9, 2017 at 07:21 PM.
If you don't want to pay for a hot tank, Simple Green will blow your mind. Seriously. Get a rubbermaid tub large enough to put your cylinder head (or whatever else you want to become stupid clean). Put your parts in there and cover with 50/50 simple green and water solution. Allow to soak for 1 day. Pull them out and be stunned at how freaking clean they got with NO scrubbing.
Also, if you want some build ideas, check out my thread. I'm in the process of doing a super reliable 300whp D16y8 build myself.
Ya ive decided tp go with the turbonetics t3 super 60 .63 a/r. Really impressed with what that simple green did to your head i will definitley have to give that a try. Also sweet build man you really went all out with that thing looks awesome!
Last edited by 93DelslowSI; Nov 28, 2017 at 04:03 PM.
Subbed to see how this goes as I run a D16Z6 and am curious as to what 5k will get. Could you keep an update on the budget throughout the course of you build? Also I'm 99% sure TheShodan is the Mr. Miyagi of Hondas.
D16z6 Turbo Build
