Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
I am thinking this might be my huckleberry for replacing the Aero Turbine muffler that is on the Si right now:
WS2 Muffler Universal, (Turbo-80mm.)
The Turbine just has a nasty drone inside the car when cruising along, it is getting old...
I think I would drive her more if the exhaust was a little quieter inside.
WS2 Muffler Universal, (Turbo-80mm.)
The Turbine just has a nasty drone inside the car when cruising along, it is getting old...
I think I would drive her more if the exhaust was a little quieter inside.
I am thinking this might be my huckleberry for replacing the Aero Turbine muffler that is on the Si right now:
WS2 Muffler Universal, (Turbo-80mm.)
The Turbine just has a nasty drone inside the car when cruising along, it is getting old...
I think I would drive her more if the exhaust was a little quieter inside.
WS2 Muffler Universal, (Turbo-80mm.)
The Turbine just has a nasty drone inside the car when cruising along, it is getting old...
I think I would drive her more if the exhaust was a little quieter inside.
Now that I had the little Si tucked into a nice heated shop, and some time to work on it, and my parts all laid out, I had to figure out what to do first.
I thought I would start off slow and replace the vacuum hose on the GSR intake manifold IAB system.
Honda only sells vacuum hose in stupid long lengths, but Toyota sells 3mm vac hose in 600mm lengths for less than $2/each. So I got 2 bags and it was just enough...
Later I will show how I wired the IAB solenoid. Something is not right though, as the IAB does not actuate via the engine vacuum when you start it up, so I need to figure out if my problem is electrical or vacuum related. I did take some pictures of the old vacuum lines for reference - I need to find those...
I thought I would start off slow and replace the vacuum hose on the GSR intake manifold IAB system.
Honda only sells vacuum hose in stupid long lengths, but Toyota sells 3mm vac hose in 600mm lengths for less than $2/each. So I got 2 bags and it was just enough...
Later I will show how I wired the IAB solenoid. Something is not right though, as the IAB does not actuate via the engine vacuum when you start it up, so I need to figure out if my problem is electrical or vacuum related. I did take some pictures of the old vacuum lines for reference - I need to find those...
Can anyone confirm if I hooked up the vacuum tubing correctly?
Wanting to change the muffler from Aero Turbine to something that will not drive me insane.
Thinking about the A'PEXi WS2 80mm Turbo muffler: WS2 Muffler Universal, (Turbo-80mm.)
Not sure how easy it will be to fit in the back of the little Civic.
Also thinking about adding rear sway bar - thinking I should do so before the exhaust work....
Thinking about the A'PEXi WS2 80mm Turbo muffler: WS2 Muffler Universal, (Turbo-80mm.)
Not sure how easy it will be to fit in the back of the little Civic.
Also thinking about adding rear sway bar - thinking I should do so before the exhaust work....
Setting Valve Lash
Next it was time to set the lash.
The FSM calls for clearances of .006 - .007 for intake, and .007 to .008 for the exhaust side.
I know the picture shows me holding the .006 feeler gauge by the intake cam, but at the last minute I changed my mind. I thought "better to be a little fat, than too skinny" (don't tell my woman) and went .007 intake/.008 exhaust.
My plan is to go back under the valve cover @ 3k miles and perhaps re-torque head bolts. At that time I will change up the valve lash to .006 intake/.007 exhaust. She is a little loud now - like a sewing machine...
Don't forget how to orient your cams for setting lash on each cylinder:
Next it was time to set the lash.
The FSM calls for clearances of .006 - .007 for intake, and .007 to .008 for the exhaust side.
I know the picture shows me holding the .006 feeler gauge by the intake cam, but at the last minute I changed my mind. I thought "better to be a little fat, than too skinny" (don't tell my woman) and went .007 intake/.008 exhaust.
My plan is to go back under the valve cover @ 3k miles and perhaps re-torque head bolts. At that time I will change up the valve lash to .006 intake/.007 exhaust. She is a little loud now - like a sewing machine...
Don't forget how to orient your cams for setting lash on each cylinder:
0.006 intake
0.007 exhaust
Doesn't sound like a sewing machine any more!
Only took 7.5 months...
Bad news. OBD1 purge valve works the opposite of OBD2 purge valves. OBD1 valve is open without power. OBD2 valve is closed without power. This made the car start up weird and idle like it had a vacuum leak until the engine warmed up. At that point, the ECU shut off power and closed the OBD2 purge valve and no more fumes were pulled into the engine.
- OBD1 ECU provides power to solenoid to keep it closed until the engine warms up.
- OBD2 ECU doesn't turn on the power till after the engine warms up.
This setup doesn't work with an OBD1 ECU. Sorry.
- OBD1 ECU provides power to solenoid to keep it closed until the engine warms up.
- OBD2 ECU doesn't turn on the power till after the engine warms up.
This setup doesn't work with an OBD1 ECU. Sorry.
Last edited by 94 Civic Si; Jan 23, 2024 at 01:01 PM.
I managed to cobble together a bolt-on OEM Type-R system for my 94 hatchback with b-series.
- Any header with 2.5" collector (I have a PLM Narrow)
- JDM DC2 Type-R 2.5" catalytic converter
- JDM DC2 Type-R B-pipe (96-spec has 2 resonators, 98-spec has 3)
- JDM EK9 muffler
Now I can sneak out of the garage at 5:30am without waking up the wife & kids (and neighbors).
- Any header with 2.5" collector (I have a PLM Narrow)
- JDM DC2 Type-R 2.5" catalytic converter
- JDM DC2 Type-R B-pipe (96-spec has 2 resonators, 98-spec has 3)
- JDM EK9 muffler
Now I can sneak out of the garage at 5:30am without waking up the wife & kids (and neighbors).
I don't know how big it is, but I do have a 22mm ITR sway bar with an ASR brace. It's all OEM and fits with plenty of room to spare. Very easy to install the muffler with the swaybar already in place.
Here are someone elses video from google:
Here are someone elses video from google:
What I found really interesting about the EK9 muffler is that angled chrome tip is actually clocked ever so slightly counter-clockwise. At first I thought there was something wrong (arived brand new from Honda Japan) but then I confirmed it in some EK9 photos. Doesn't really stand out until you see it in person.
Yes I did. Try contacting Lings Honda Parts if you want new. Took about 4 months to get though.
For Left-Had-Drive headlights, you may have to go through some connection in Germany or France instead (sorry I don't have one). Still worth a try if you have the part#. Also keep in mind most of the parts for the EG are becoming discontinued these days.
For Left-Had-Drive headlights, you may have to go through some connection in Germany or France instead (sorry I don't have one). Still worth a try if you have the part#. Also keep in mind most of the parts for the EG are becoming discontinued these days.
I did check for vacuum at the FPR today after I started the engine, and it was there - so that is a good thing!
It can't be that complicated - just need vacuum and electrical signals!
Yes I did. Try contacting Lings Honda Parts if you want new. Took about 4 months to get though.
For Left-Had-Drive headlights, you may have to go through some connection in Germany or France instead (sorry I don't have one). Still worth a try if you have the part#. Also keep in mind most of the parts for the EG are becoming discontinued these days.
For Left-Had-Drive headlights, you may have to go through some connection in Germany or France instead (sorry I don't have one). Still worth a try if you have the part#. Also keep in mind most of the parts for the EG are becoming discontinued these days.
If its clear lense its worth it. If not don't bother. Not to mention the focal point is probably adjusted for RHD not LHD
You should be concerned. LHD and RHD have a different beam pattern (not focal point). Both headlights have a lifted edge on the beam cutoff that illuminates the shoulder of the road. Running RHD headlights will be shining light into oncoming traffic.
LHD = ___/"" ___/""
RHD = ""\___ ""\___
BTW: I definitely recommend Depo's glass aftermarket headlights (euro black or euro chrome housing). I've had them since they came out in about 2004 (still look perfect after 13 years). They are LHD and have provisions to add city lights like the JDM headlights. The only thing you might want to replace is the rubber boot (uses JDM EG headlight boot).
LHD = ___/"" ___/""
RHD = ""\___ ""\___
BTW: I definitely recommend Depo's glass aftermarket headlights (euro black or euro chrome housing). I've had them since they came out in about 2004 (still look perfect after 13 years). They are LHD and have provisions to add city lights like the JDM headlights. The only thing you might want to replace is the rubber boot (uses JDM EG headlight boot).
You should be concerned. LHD and RHD have a different beam pattern (not focal point). Both headlights have a lifted edge on the beam cutoff that illuminates the shoulder of the road. Running RHD headlights will be shining light into oncoming traffic.
LHD = ___/"" ___/""
RHD = ""\___ ""\___
BTW: I definitely recommend Depo's glass aftermarket headlights (euro black or euro chrome housing). I've had them since they came out in about 2004 (still look perfect after 13 years). They are LHD and have provisions to add city lights like the JDM headlights. The only thing you might want to replace is the rubber boot (uses JDM EG headlight boot).
LHD = ___/"" ___/""
RHD = ""\___ ""\___
BTW: I definitely recommend Depo's glass aftermarket headlights (euro black or euro chrome housing). I've had them since they came out in about 2004 (still look perfect after 13 years). They are LHD and have provisions to add city lights like the JDM headlights. The only thing you might want to replace is the rubber boot (uses JDM EG headlight boot).
When you say "add city lights", you mean like daytime running light?
Not really. In japan their lighting setup is different. Their version of parking lights are called city lights. When parking lights are turned on, a small alternate bulb in the headlight itself comes on instead of the corner lamp (their corner lamps are always off). This small bulb shuts off when the headlights come on. Their corner lamps only function as blinkers and not running lights like US setups. I think instead they use the small fender light below the mirror as a running light (not really sure).
I just spliced my city lights into the parking light wiring of my blinkers. They come on with parking lights, and stay on with headlights.
I just spliced my city lights into the parking light wiring of my blinkers. They come on with parking lights, and stay on with headlights.
BTW: I definitely recommend Depo's glass aftermarket headlights (euro black or euro chrome housing). I've had them since they came out in about 2004 (still look perfect after 13 years). They are LHD and have provisions to add city lights like the JDM headlights. The only thing you might want to replace is the rubber boot (uses JDM EG headlight boot).






