ive got a b18c i spoke with golden eagle and they are going to sleeve the block for us and hone the cylinders to match the cp pistons we are using. Our goal is 800whp minimum. What about the valve train? what cams are you high horsepower guys running 1 and 2 what valves springs retainers ect. Is it really needed to go bigger valves as well i have only found ferra +1mm valves. Any and all help would be appreciated. Also should we have golden eagle do the 5 main billet girdle for the block while its there or just use the stock 3 main girdle and use arp studs and line hone it? Where has anyone found the arp head studs 625 or l19 for this motor too i cant source them anywhere

 

There's a lot more info you can find on this, and it can vary depending on your HP goals, but in general I don't think it's beneficial or recommended to go to larger valves on B series engines. It will limit your cam choices as well as timing, and increase the likelihood of V2V contact.

L19 headstuds: https://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/view...dproduct=26273

Don't use standard ARP studs for 800+, you'll want to up the size to the L19.

GSC T1 cams and complementing valvetrain are excellent for most builds, but I have absolutely 0 experience building Honda engines at the power level you have in mind so there may be better options (such as a locked profile cam, full roller).

 

I use Ferrea standard size valves and Ferrea valve springs/retainers, for cams I use web pro's. I would do the billet girdle and notch the block for aluminum rods as well.

 

what do you guys think about just studding the mains and using the stock girdle ? and ive read alot of people use stock valves. and those l19 studs are made by speed factory ? are they worth a crap never used any of their stuff always use arp on my builds but i usually build gm ls motors and 2jz mtors

 

800whp. Yes, Main studs by ARP or Speed Factory will be fine either way. (align hone the main caps) w/ a stock girdle will be more than enough. Do not use stock valves for 800whp. If you feel better with ARP, then use ARP.

 

This may go a LOT easier if you have a planned list of what you're going to do (or emulate from another similar build) and ask specific questions from that point.

Or even better, you can base a lot from someone like Titan101's build, he just did something like this recently. I believe he's at about 841whp right now.

Here, I'll offer an olive branch to help save some time here.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...nsion-3199447/

 

thanks guys....as you can see ive been a member for sometime now but have been out of building a honda for 10 years maybe. had some ls and 2j feever. but i got my hands on a clean cx eg hatch and wanted to pick some brains on this build. what do you think of the stock sized valves though using ferra valves? what all have you torqued the heads down to on arp studs? arp specs or more ?

also what head gasket are you using? golden eagle is o ringing the sleeves too they said .....havent used them before are they needed or actually beneficial

 

OEM Specs on the head studs should still be used (90 ft lb, 30-60-90).

O Rings definitely help create a better seal in the combustion chamber with the gasket, might as well get it done for the pressure and power you're planning on pushing.

Also, 500 posts. Cash me ousside how bow dah?

 

What valves are you guys running

 

Supertech
Ferrea (5000 series, 6000 series, competition plus)
GSC
Skunk2
Rev

​​​​​​​Those are the main companies used. Research and decide :-)

 

Ferrea 6000's will do the trick... Ferrea Competition Plus valves are the top of the line (I have these in EVERY built Honda engine I own) from Shodan's list above. Done. Next question.

 

GSC T1 camshafts are not only oriented for "BIG POWER" applications, despite what the numbers and videos lead you to believe. As one of the original owners of the Honda version of these camshafts, I can say with quite certainty that unlike the Web Roller or even a Skunk2 PRO 1 camshaft, they can work very well with turbocharger systems as small as 40lbs/min. You don't have to go for 800whp+ in order to use them. They are one of the few camshaft companies that work with such a wide range of compressor airflow capabilities. I'm saying this simply to make sure that others aren't deterred from their use simply because they seem as though they were only made for 600whp+ applications....Far from it.

 

I am wondering what the real WHP goal is because it says 800whp MINIMUM so what is the max they going for.

 

Heh. Good question. I looked back to the original post after you stated that

 

t1 cams
nice rods/pistons
l19s
66mm+
fuel system
gears and lsd
tune
800whp no problem

 

800whp is the minimum power im looking for on this build. Id like to break 1000whp. When i say minimum is 800whp that means if everything is built right and we shove it on our dyno in house i want to see this setup make 800 or im going to be super mad and well ill blame it on the tuner lol. Jk

I have done research on valves and im aware the manufactures available for them my question is are you guys running stock sized valves? oversized ? flat faced or dish faced like stock valves.

have any of you run vp import race fuel ? Anyone heard of ignite e98 fuel any use?

 

Most will run 1mm+ oversized valve on the Intake only. without completely claying the engine, going with 1mm+ on both intake and exhaust can cause clearance issues depending upon the brand used.
VP Import fuels that are petrol-based will always make a bit more than most E85-based fuels. I can't say anything regarding the FTW fuels. It really depends upon how far you plan to go, and if there are any class rules you need to adhere to.

Example of an 800whp+ build already running to get some cues from. PM Titan101; get his thoughts instead of worrying about general consensus.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...nsion-3199447/

 

My good man, I made shy of 1100 whp with my setup on a 6870 and now have the car setup for 1300whp. I am currently using stock sized Ferrea Comp Plus 6000 series valves. The head was also clayed and I run WebCam Pro cams, details below.

Also I have been running e98 in my car for about 4 years and love the stuff, all of us down here run e98.

"The PRO Series design is unique in being a one-lobe, one-rocker, one-spring solution. This design reduces total valvetrain mass which is a major plus at high RPMs. The system also uses rocker arms designed with double the surface area of the factory rocker arm. Twice the surface area puts only half the load on the cam lobe and reduces friction. The additional surface area also allows for higher lifts in excess of 0.525 inch. Since the WEB-CAM PRO Series eliminated the lost motion assemblies the oil flow to the cylinder head is drastically reduced. This helps to provide additional oil to the main and rod bearings which is also a plus for trips to the land of 11,000 RPM."

 

This is what the current setup is looking like.

 

Got dayum boi That's a pretty awesome bay. Good luck with the 1300 goal, post a vid/dyno once you make it. Any B/K that makes over 1000 is always amazing to look at.

 

Yeah the turbo now on my car has made over 1300, it's the turbo off of Locash's Gray Integra. I don't think I am going to push it as hard though because I am still on a steel rod block.

 

AZ_CIVIC what throttle body is on that intake manifold ? is it the mustang 90mm? Also have you messed with aem's coil on plug kit that replaces the dizzy? I noticed you have the external cam and crank sensors. what triggers are they and what gears used for it ect thats the one thing on honda i have yet to use or do on a build of mine. Obviously thats needed now for the power goals so plz bare with me if i ask some nooby sounding questions

 

The throttle body is an Accufab 90mm, I don't have any experience with AEM but I am currently running Motec with the T1 cam trigger.

 

looks really hot!

 

What head is on your setup and do you have the cam specs from web ? Where did that valve cover come from ?