My 99 civic just started over heating from a hose right under the distibutor. Its when i turn off the car that it bubbles and gushes out from the connection to the engine. Is this big or do i just need a new hose or just a new clamp?

 

Don't drive overheated. Fix the leak and refill the system before driving any more. As a very temporary measure you can cut the end of the hose off and re-clamp it back on what is hopefully a more solid section. But you should replace the hose as soon as possible. The clamp is reusable.

 

thanks man, does it have certain name or size?

 

how big is the hose, sounds like the heater hose that runs to the firewall

 

I think it is, it runs under the distributor to the engine block.

 

take a pic dude

or find it on the parts diagram at one of the oem honda sites

hondapartsunlimited.com is one

another one
Majestic Honda - The Internet's #1 Honda Automotive Parts Store

 

Probably this one. It cracks right after the clamp all the time. Just replace it and top off your radiator.

 

Best pic i could find ill take a picture once im home

 

its a heater hose it runs to the valve for the heater near the firewall

You didn't specify which model of civic you have, here is a link to the 99 ex coupe, where it shows the hose and part #

#2

https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/...ter-valve-scat

 

99 LX

 

https://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/...ter-valve-scat

same part # between both, above is the link to the one for your car.

Although you could probably get the host at a local autoparts store if you are not looking for a oem honda part

 

You can buy whole rolls of heater hose at Lowes really cheap. Go buy a roll, cut a piece to fit and replace that section. As-well as any other hoses that look distressed while your at it. This will ensure this doesn't happen again in the future.

https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=heater+hose

 

Thanks guys helped a lot. The hose has a slit in it so I cut it off for a temporary fix. Drove for over an hour and nothing happened.

 

Update: she is still getting hot. There are no visible leaks or anything. Any have an idea of what it could be?. It's only when she's idle that it starts to rise could it be cause I need a new hose?

 

First, inspect for any more leaks. Then, did you get all the air out? Park the car on level ground or (even better) facing uphill, then look up the bleeding procedure while you are waiting for the engine to cool off.

 

You lost coolant, bleed system.

 

I dont understand why it takes so long just to do it correctly.
remove defective hose from car
take hose to auto part store
buy matching hose
reinstall
bleed the system according to fsm

i guess im more prone to get it done quick and right instead of messing around hoping it would magically fix itself.
these cars have been around for a long time now, hoses will get worn and brittle. As expected.
dont just clip off the leak section then try to get by. Do it right.

 

OP listen up, you can fix the problem temporarily (replace hose) or you can get to the root of the problem and fix it once and for all. Hoses don't just break on their own. Something ruptured it. I would bet a half million dollars on a leaky distributor O-ring leaking oil onto that hose and disintegrating it over time. This exact same thing happened to me, exact same hose ruptured in the exact same spot, and overheated just like you. Buy an entire hose kit if you can afford it (i got a ebay kit for like 60 bucks, thats ALL coolant hoses, and it has lasted several years so far), drain all the coolant out and take each hose out and replace it with a new one as you go. While you're in there buy the $0.79 distributor O-ring and throw that on too, if you don't know how to do that I can guide you. Do the o-ring, do the hoses, and then refill and properly bleed the cooling system. The whole job start to finish took me like 2 or 3 hours in a parking lot on my 95 civic, and that was my very first time ever doing such a job. I wouldn't say it's very hard, and almost all of the hoses are in easy reach. If you want to do the whole job for like 75 bucks get this:
Hose Kit
Wormgear clamp set
a gallon of full strength antifreeze
a gallon of distilled water
distributor o-ring

Wormgear clamps are the hose clamps that have the screw on them so you can tighten and loosen them, and they are far superior to the "pry style" clamps that come stock on the car and aren't ideal for reuse.

Check for oil residue under the distributor and hose that just ruptured. I can kinda see oil sludge on top of the transmission in that picture but you would have to confirm this.

 

Thanks man this helps a lot I will definitely get the kit and let you all know ill take a picture with the distributor off tomorrow.

 

I picked ebay for the o ring because with rock auto the price is like 1 or 2 dollars but you still pay a buttload for shipping so oh well just do 1 ebay transaction. Oh and notice the ebay kit has a new wormgear o ring kit with it, 2 birds with 1 stone

 

The only issue I had with fitment was I had to cut the upper radiator hose on the radiator end, about 1 inch off, because it was shaped wrong. It still lined up ok and didn't leak but left a slight kink in the hose, not enough to obstruct the flow however

here you can see the "unnatural" bend in the upper radiator hose, but it works. This is an old picture of my bay but the same hoses are still on there 25k miles later.

 

Alright, cool man will update when I purchase them