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First thing every tuner points out they don't like is the log manifold. I think it's working good so far haha. With the B20 stroke this thing is a blast to drive!
Every tuner that doesn't tune Mitsubishi Evolution II-X only say that. You'd be surprised how those tuners don't bitch about the exhaust manifold at all, and use turbochargers that are 10lbs/min larger than what you have.
This is my second fastest slip. Can't find the 13.2 at the moment.
For a refresher, I'm runnng a B16 with a quaife diff with redline MTF. First time running the Redline and I'm going to assume that's what is giving me problems getting into gear. Almost every gear I had to make a second attempt at putting it into gear. It was weird because the transmission didn't even grind, it just wouldn't go into gear. While in gear the shifter seems to have a lot of side to side play. How do I tighten that up? Is the B16 gearing what is holding me back? On the few good passes I would bounce of the limiter for at least half a second before crossing the finish line (8600 rev limit). I really didn't think the gearing would play that big of a role at this power level. I know slicks would help a lot but I really want to break into the 12s on street tires. Any comments are appreciated!
Slicks will make the single biggest difference for sure. With the short gearing of the b16 trans some 24.5x8.50x13 slicks would work well. Make sure your clutch pedal is adjusted properly. If it engages right off the floor it will make it easy to miss gears, so you want it to start engaging a few inches off the floor. If you set you clutch height and free play to oem spec you should be good to go. Also check over all your shift linkage, make sure everything is tight and there is no slop in the bushings. Street tires are tough at the drag strip with fwd, get slicks and don't look back. Your power to weight ratio is a easy 10 second car if setup right.
Slicks will make the single biggest difference for sure. With the short gearing of the b16 trans some 24.5x8.50x13 slicks would work well. Make sure your clutch pedal is adjusted properly. If it engages right off the floor it will make it easy to miss gears, so you want it to start engaging a few inches off the floor. If you set you clutch height and free play to oem spec you should be good to go. Also check over all your shift linkage, make sure everything is tight and there is no slop in the bushings. Street tires are tough at the drag strip with fwd, get slicks and don't look back. Your power to weight ratio is a easy 10 second car if setup right.
Any idea what I can do about the side to side slop in the shifter while in gear? I think a big problem of mine is the fluid. I've never had that problem before and I was running oem until I switched. What's the best master cylinder to use also? I noticed mine is leaking a little under the dash. Thanks for the response.
Any idea what I can do about the side to side slop in the shifter while in gear? I think a big problem of mine is the fluid. I've never had that problem before and I was running oem until I switched. What's the best master cylinder to use also? I noticed mine is leaking a little under the dash. Thanks for the response.
I don't really know what would cause the side to side slop. My clutch master was leaking too and I just replaced it with a cheap standard parts store oe replacement part, no problems so far, but I'm sure an oem master would be the best. Either way if it's leaking it needs to be replaced.
"Slop" has nothing to do with the transmission fluid. That's the shift linkage and bushings between the linkage and the actual lever. Best for you to change to one of those weird K-Tuned versions.
For comparison my ek hatch on street tires makes over 100 less hp and here is my best ET. It has trapped 118 on more boost but ET was no better. Gsr trans, syncrotech fluid had been working well so far.
For comparison my ek hatch on street tires makes over 100 less hp and here is my best ET. It has trapped 118 on more boost but ET was no better. Gsr trans, syncrotech fluid had been working well so far.
What tires are you running?
Picked up an aluminum shifter bushing and a new poly front bushing and I'm planning on switching back to Honda MTF. Hopefully it's delivered before the weekend so I can hit the track once again. I also forgot to mess with tire pressures last time so I'll be doing that also.
Picked up an aluminum shifter bushing and a new poly front bushing and I'm planning on switching back to Honda MTF. Hopefully it's delivered before the weekend so I can hit the track once again. I also forgot to mess with tire pressures last time so I'll be doing that also.
Bfg g-force a/s tires, no burn out. Just avoided the water box then a super short dry hop to scrub the dust off the tires.
My old hatch would go consistent low 12s with 205 neo gen tires. I spent a lot of time dialing in bbg and even used gear based ignition retard to pull timing in first gear only. In that car I could just mash the throttle any time and hook, it was a lot of fun. This was a stupid simple turbo LS setup with about 380whp. Here is a video of my best run on street tires 12.32@122 (went 11.0 on slicks). I would do a small 1st gear burnout and run my tires at ~20psi air pressure. I think you can improve a lot with more seat time and messing with bbg.
My old hatch would go consistent low 12s with 205 neo gen tires. I spent a lot of time dialing in bbg and even used gear based ignition retard to pull timing in first gear only. In that car I could just mash the throttle any time and hook, it was a lot of fun. This was a stupid simple turbo LS setup with about 380whp. Here is a video of my best run on street tires 12.32@122 (went 11.0 on slicks). I would do a small 1st gear burnout and run my tires at ~20psi air pressure. I think you can improve a lot with more seat time and messing with bbg.
I'll have to look to see if s300 has that same capability. I think my spring is a 11-12psi unfortunately. That LS ripped, can't believe its on street tires! Maybe I should just run it off the spring till I get used to driving it.
So I took a closer look at the BBG table and noticed the numbers were kind of random (37-40-35). So I and changed the numbers so they would be more linear and go up instead of up and back down. I dont know if that makes much sense but I'm waiting on my aluminum bushing to take it out for a spin.
So I took a closer look at the BBG table and noticed the numbers were kind of random (37-40-35). So I and changed the numbers so they would be more linear and go up instead of up and back down. I dont know if that makes much sense but I'm waiting on my aluminum bushing to take it out for a spin.
Your tuner probably set it up that way because your fuel system is maxed out and possibly to avoid slight boost creep. Hopefully boost cut is set before you lean out too bad. Make sure you keep an eye on your wideband, especially at 7k+ rpm where it will likely be out of fuel. IMO your car makes plenty of power as is, if you're gonna mess with bbg, start with pulling boost out of the lower gear, not increasing it in the higher gears.
Who is running ground control coilovers? I tried raising the the front end for the new tires and the passenger side is maxxed out while the driver side still has at least 5 threads to go up with. I'm using the top c-clip on koni yellows also. For the life of me i could not figure it out why im running out of threads on one and not the other.
The second problem I found was I'm only running on wastegate pressure in 3-5 gear. I data logged a pull and the pwm is a 0% and the map is reading 12lbs. Im assuming its something to do with the wiring as it wss working fine on the dyno. How do i test the solenoid through the s300?
*So I noticed the activation pressure was set at 230psi and on my last tune it was 3.9psi. Not sure if that has anything to do with it.
Last edited by gutted-dx; Aug 21, 2017 at 01:01 PM.
Maximum should be at closed. Activation pressure 2 or 3psi. To test the solenoid sure your connected to the ecu, then down to test outputs. Something like that.
Went back to the track with R888 and pretty much had the same result but left with a broken axle haha. I shifted into 3rd and it just free reved. My problem still is in the tune and bbg settings. It keeps breaking up in 4th even though it's on a different tune but this time I recorded some good data logs ( I'll post them up in a bit). The car did come out of the hole better consistently 2.1 with just riding out the clutch, no burnout. New axle is installed and the car is almost ready I plan on taking it back to the tuner to see if he can help with the boost cut or whatever it is in 4th.
Went back to the track with R888 and pretty much had the same result but left with a broken axle haha. I shifted into 3rd and it just free reved. My problem still is in the tune and bbg settings. It keeps breaking up in 4th even though it's on a different tune but this time I recorded some good data logs ( I'll post them up in a bit). The car did come out of the hole better consistently 2.1 with just riding out the clutch, no burnout. New axle is installed and the car is almost ready I plan on taking it back to the tuner to see if he can help with the boost cut or whatever it is in 4th.
R888s were never made for drag racing. I never understood why such a street tyre is so abused when its out of its element.
R888s were never made for drag racing. I never understood why such a street tyre is so abused when its out of its element.
Well it does get more traction on the street compared to a 205, corners better than a drag radial and has longer street life than a drag radial, I just haven't found my slicks yet. Like I said it broke shifting into 3rd.
Before the last event of the year I figured Id go in for a touch up on the tune. Stepped up the injectors to 2200cc because I found a good deal on them and why not. For some reason it was still running out of fuel on the top end so I didn't get to max out the SS like I wanted to but did hit 29.98 psi haha. Overall would recommend the SS to anyone it's an amazing turbo.
Before the last event of the year I figured Id go in for a touch up on the tune. Stepped up the injectors to 2200cc because I found a good deal on them and why not. For some reason it was still running out of fuel on the top end so I didn't get to max out the SS like I wanted to but did hit 29.98 psi haha. Overall would recommend the SS to anyone it's an amazing turbo.
Did the tuner at English make any comments regarding any compressor surge or exhaust turbine backpressure at that boost pressure level?
You're one of the few people that I've have seen utilize 29psi for the SS. Most stop at about 26-27psi.
Did the tuner at English make any comments regarding any compressor surge or exhaust turbine backpressure at that boost pressure level?
You're one of the few people that I've have seen utilize 29psi for the SS. Most stop at about 26-27psi.
Very nice. 556whp & 329ft-lbs peak.
It's 389! He didn't say anything about that and I'm assuming you'd need a sensor to monitor that? We would have kept going but it kept running into a lean condition. Any suggestions why it would run lean with a walbro 450 and 2200s?
It's 389! He didn't say anything about that and I'm assuming you'd need a sensor to monitor that? We would have kept going but it kept running into a lean condition. Any suggestions why it would run lean with a walbro 450 and 2200s?
Whats your fuel feed and return line size? What fpr and fuel pressure are you running? Do you have the fuel pump hardwired with a relay and big enough wire?
Whats your fuel feed and return line size? What fpr and fuel pressure are you running? Do you have the fuel pump hardwired with a relay and big enough wire?
Nice numbers btw 👍
Thanks man. Feed and return are stock. The tuner said something about the stock lines causing it but I can't remember the specifics because the dyno room is loud haha. AEM regulator and 60psi or so. The pump is hardwired with 10ga wiring. English has a saying " real boost starts at 30psi". I was so close! Haha
Re: gutted-dx's Sleeved B16 STC Surfer Engine Build Progress Thread.
